JDRiv

Members
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About JDRiv

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 08/14/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Lafayette, CO
  1. Thanks to all for the good inputs and advice. JZRIV got right to the heart of the matter. This car does in fact have sentimental value. It belonged to my wife's parents and I rescued it from growing up in weeds at their home in Georgia. All those years outside took their toll. What you see around the rear window frame does extend inside the trunk compartment where the body's internal sheet metal behind the package shelf and below the window's trailing edge is also rotted/perforated, so it seems this will require a lot of effort to make solid again. Despite the family ties, my wife is supportive even if it means finding a more solid car to spend my time on. I'm still taken with the first generation Rivs so that's almost certainly would it would be. In the mean time, maybe I can look into picking up some MIG welding skills. Thanks again. You guys are the best.
  2. In the quest to get my ’63 up to the status of a daily driver, I’ve spent most of my efforts on mechanical and electrical. Lately though, I’ve been looking into getting some of the rust issues fixed especially around the rear glass, which is rusted in spots into the flat surface outside the window frame channel. I’m thinking I have three options…have a skilled sheet metal restoration shop fabricate a new rear glass frame, find a source for the affected part(s) from a donor car and have them grafted in….or find a good project car that has a better body than mine and embark on making one good Riv out of two. Honestly at this point, the thought of finding a car that has much less rust than mine is very appealing. I’m not sure what the best course of action is. It seems that I am at a bit of a crossroads and would welcome any input and suggestions from the fellows in the ROA. Thanks in advance, Jeff D.
  3. My '63 401 has low compression in two adjacent cylinders on the right bank. I'm hoping a new head gasket will fix the problem. Anyone have advice on getting that done...or a recommendation for a good shop in the Denver area? Thanks! JD
  4. Good call by riomar000. Had time today to tighten the connections on the horn relay and the starter itself. Solved the problem. Thanks to all for the information and advice. It will surely come in handy. I'm bringing this baby back from the edge so it's only a matter of time before I'll need to replace the battery and/or the starter. It's a great feeling to know that when you have one of those days, there are lots of willing, knowledgeable, and enthusiastic people that will help you work through it. Thank you! JD
  5. Thanks! I'll check some of those things out...hopefully after work in the next couple days. Appreciate the help. JD
  6. Had the Riv out for a drive today. No problems. Parked it in the driveway for a few hours. Went out to put it in the garage and..."click." Warning lights come on with the key in the "on" position, but when I turn the key to start, I hear a single click under the hood but the starter doesn't crank the engine. Any ideas on how to diagnose or troubleshoot would be greatly appreciated. Best regards, JD
  7. My Dynaflow is leaking right where the drive shaft connects at the back of the transmission. Looking to see if others have experienced this and what advice they may have on the repair. Thanks very much!
  8. My '63 didn't have a spare when it came into my possession and so I would like to get an additional rim to setup as a spare. Is there an easy way to tell the size of my other rims without removing a tire and measuring? The car currently has 225/75 R15 tires but I don't know if that implies that I have the 6 inch wheels or not. Thanks very much! JD
  9. Well Jim - It seems to be as you predicted. With everything reconnected, the cable doesn't have enough throw to actuate the switch. The plastic sheath is cracked in several places on my cable and it must also be disconnected up at the actuator end (though I haven't been able to figure out how to disassemble the actuator to check for sure). It looks like I'm going to have to rig something up on the outside of the steering column for now to get usable signals. If you have ideas on how to do that or where to get a new cable, please let me know. Thanks!
  10. Thanks Jim. Except for some troublesome connections at the fuse block, the signals are all working. I'll try to remount the switch and connect the cable hopefully this weekend. I'll let you know how it turns out. JD
  11. Thanks Jim! I do have a tilt column. I think the bottom of my cable is okay...not sure about the top yet. I will do as you suggest and get back to you later on how it turned out. Best regards, JD
  12. Can someone please tell me if this is the correct turn signal switch for a '63 Riv?...and if not, where I might be able to get one. I'm troubleshooting turn signals. I currently have brake lights working and turn signals working in the front only. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  13. Greetings - I was using a test light on the fuse block under the dash of my '63 today when I discovered that my "Blower" fuse was extremely hot. The Blower is not currently working...basically none of the heating/air conditioning system is. I have plenty of other items to tackle before heating and A/C, but I would kind of like to understand what might be going on there since it could indicate other issues with the electrical system. I went ahead and removed the fuse until I can learn more about what might be going on. Can anyone tell me what size the Blower fuse is supposed to be? The number has worn off on my fuse block so that I can't read it. I would also appreciate any ideas about what could be causing the situation I described. Best regards, JD
  14. Rob, don't feel bad. You're not the only one with lots of questions. My question is on one of the pics that Ed posted. There is something resembling a condenser riding piggy back on the coil. What is that? I have one on my '63 but it isn't connected (engine seems to run fine without it). My condenser is under the distributor cap. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks - JD