XframeFX

Taste & Technique goes a long way. Nice detail. Quite often, the slow approach is best if you don't have a plan or realize your plan wasn't that great while you're going about it. With all the windshield time I've done over the years, I do trial & error in my head. When I get home, a little (or a lot) of online research and get to work. I see Brian's old ride is safe out on the 'wet coast' now! Those are comfortable rides. But, your '65 GS, oh so nice Chris! This Covid thing finally has me focusing on my Riv. A low priority for too long. A little everyday is key. Although upsetting the balance with my other half a bit, not impressed. "Just buy a new car"! Big job tonight was changing all 6 of #90 (1142) courtesy lights to 300 Lumen COB style warm LEDs. Hard work that plug 'n play! Popular with RV'ers, they buy more than just 6! John B.

My My Brian! Aren't you one for detail. You're the one I want to buy a car from. I see the exterior, nice stance! Seafoam? I had a plan which was minimal detail but I deviated from that. Went the extra mile for functionality and resto-mod. I considered refinishing the interior of the instrument cluster with something electro-luminescent. But switching to 4- LED 194 lighting seemed to do the trick. Your dash lights dim? I stripped the door veneer panels this PM Came off in 1-piece. Started scraping, then used Goof-Off - not a chance and nasty stuff. Windy outside, switched to "Aircraft Stripper" Nasty too but not as bad as Goof-Off. Quick work with the latter. Instructions say "Not for Airframes"! Now to source replacement veneer or laminate for the doors only. The rear quarters are in. Moving forward. Yes, All my armrests have a crack. I have dead-ringer colour match SEM spray bomb which I considered for the console which was already matching. I thought of my original plan of minimal detail and that console gave me so much grieve - no paint. For the cracked armrests, using epoxy? John B.

I don't have an answer Jeff except for removing the valves for that or all cylinders and inspecting the casting around the seats. When the engine ran, was there pressure when you turned the rad cap to the safety? You might as well strip the heads and have it magna-flux inspected while it's off. I'm watching your your progress closely because I had Cadillac 429 heads done at a machine shop and went for the recommended Exhaust Seats. I then thought I'd get the 401 heads done at the same time back in '91. The Nailhead has run seldom since. I do recall a rattle when I ran the engine and thought the shop drove the old frost plugs into the casting and left them in the water jacket. Why do shops apply a procedure regardless of engine types? If hardened seats are not possible, they should've called me. I was also unaware of the high nickel content in the castings back then. John B.

I had 10-32 SS Tee nuts in my odds 'n sods drawer but couldn't find pan-head 10-32 screws at Lowes. You kidding me! Everything was 10-20 coarse screws. So, I had to buy more Tee Nuts in 10-20. I buy SS or plain, whatever gets me outta Lowes and back on my project fast. In Canada we have the Robertson (square) screws shoved down out throats. Solution, buy SS to get the Phillips head screws. These Tee nuts (at Lowes) usually come with barbs for cabinetry. But. the brad type do not. Perfect for kick panels as there's 1/4" between the grill and kick panel which goes up against the vent flange directly. No room for a hex-nut. Notice duct tape for the transition between that flimsy board to steel.

David. you're teaching us or at least me. I've noticed that insulation and is not an issue with me. But again, being garage bound, no air flowing through it yet. Thanks to you, I now know what the shape of that insulation is. I'd use POR15 and then some Dynamat type product.You going to scrape off all that old sealant and use an automotive seam and joint sealer? I used the product in the image, just like original. The insulation I wish I dealt with when my dashboard was bare was the inside of the firewall. It's old and decrepit shedding with the slightest disturbance. I know I've inhaled those fibers when my head was under there. Had me thinking if there's any asbestos in the insulation. For my new carpeted kick panels, I found 8-32 Tee Nuts (brad type) excellent replacement for those rivets that were on the old kick panels. John B

I concur with that ebay solenoid being for the switch pitch. Clues are the connector in the Tee position and the solenoid base not twisted like the Kick-Down solenoid. I know a new one is scarce so, good timing if you need one. Just have to fork over $$$ to get it. On the box it actually says "Witch" Pitch LOL I know where there's an ST-300 at a wreckers. It has some parts common to the ST-400. I wonder if the Front Pumps are interchangeable? In the '64 Buick Shop Manual, they look the same. John B

Got It! - Thanks for your help and posting those images. What I was missing was tapping the end pieces off after lifting the front edge up. Re-reading the instructions for doing the rear quarter panels, it didn't mention tapping but it did say slide the end piece off. I missed that word. But in my attempts, I did try and they do not slide off. The operative word is Tap it off. Also, starting with an end piece is a must followed by the other end piece in order to tap off the long pieces part-way length wise, then slide/pull off by hand. So, for re-installation of the long pieces, do I have to clip them head-on in position or, a combination of clipping and sliding? It probably depends on how thick the new veneer is. I can pick up this stuff locally - .028" Walnut veneer. Appears more suited for surfaces with contours. Perhaps keep looking for flat sheets.

So back to our veneer Wood panels, am I missing something? The '63 has it just on the doors and rear quarters, Thought I'd have an easier go at this with less to do. The molding around the veneer appears impossible.If I could persuade the 1st section off, I could slide off the long sections. I've used all kinds of pry tools including those handy plastic prys for auto trim. If I were to proceed , I'd not only damage the molding but destroy it. On top of that, my 1963 wood veneer is not that bad. So, if it ain't broke . . . . However, my reason for replacing the door wood veneer is that I have power vents and my panels I have holes for vent cranks. I've read threads on this for 1965 Rivieras. Could it be 1963 is different? The moldings wrap around the back side of the panel and won't lift as per instructions ("Removing Wood Veneer" and Schmiddy's website). I'd much appreciate it if someone could enlighten me on these with maybe images of the back side. Thank-You, John B.

I've got a whole spool of Maryland Specialty Wire (MSW) It's very fine (.020") 301 grade SS Safety Lock-wire. Tensile strength is way beyond what's needed, works great! An enemy of any solid core wire is high-cycle fatigue like bending a paper clip over and over again. No cycling on this install. Turbinator, it's from Cockeysville MD! Back to Steele Rubber's J-Channel strip with the 1/4" chrome sash on top I had planned for the inner door panel. It's too short, only 36"! Need 48" like the fuzzies I have used. Still looking for a product. Another possibility for the inner, there's 6' of this stuff:

Thanks Bill for steering me to your thread and informing Rich and myself. I'm not often lucky with searches, wrong key words. So I continued with this thread. I've had several shipments from Steele Rubber and was wary of strip sets from the start. Also, I already had some fuzzy whisker strips. So, just buying more for the exterior as needed. I am aware of the intention of these strips not keeping water out. But the J-channel has the 1/4" chrome flashing on top like the inner strips and they compress to 1/4", the same as the cross-section of felt strips. I just thought the J-channel would prevent the glass from rattling when in the down "2 door hardtop" position. It appears the J-channel can be stripped to tuck alongside the vent window. How are people attaching these strips? I secured the outer strips with SS Safety Wire through the staple holes like twist-ties. I also purchased Vent window kits from Steele Rubber. I have yet to install. They look good but what I just read in your thread, I'm hoping for zero issues. No more obstacles please! John B.

1963 only? Drawing the bulkhead connector into the firewall with an electrical cap and 3 pieces of 6-32 ready-rod through 3 connector cavities that I removed. Was a 1-man job!

We must be triplets! Either you 2 are following my footsteps or, I'm following yours and those footsteps are baby ones with typical Riviera progress! Turn signal switch - Bin there, done that! If it weren't for cornering lights (and I considered omitting them from the circuit), I would've bought a replacement. As careful as I was, I snapped an itty bitty tab taking it apart. I fab'd a bracket from my bedroom bifold doors to hold it together Maybe we should challenge each other on what we struggled the most on regarding our projects. . So, I have a battle that was tougher than the console, tougher than the turn signal switch/cable, tougher than snapped 1963 HVAC diecast levers and even rusted-out fuse holders in the fuse panel. What is it? Installing the 12-circuit bulkhead connector with a 57 year old rubber grommet. I struggled for weeks and was convinced it was impossible without a fresh pliable grommet. I even made a mold of the old grommet to fab a fresh one!

Good choice on Clark's for carpet Nick, ACC was my 2nd shot at ordering carpet as the 1st source sent a set of cheap material, no binding or even a heel pad and the colour was off! I wasn't too happy with ACC either but far better than the 1st set! As for cut-outs, minimize cuts at the front U-brackets. The short span of carpet to the U-bracket from the sill plates covers the outboard bolt. The same for the carpet from the console covering the inboard bolt. Between the U-brackets, whatever you can manage as it is out-of-sight. I have my front mounts directly on the floor pan and the rear mounts on the carpet. Your work looks good. Keep going! A warning for when you get to the console. I see you removed those tri-angular brackets below the dashboard. I made the mistake of doing the same without marking their positions before removal. Regardless of those brackets. you'll find yourself fitting the console over and over and over again! Patience is required for the console. It will hold up the installation of both front carpet pieces. Good Luck! John B.

Still on this and I can relate to Rich. But, I'm trying to figure out what product to use. I received another online purchase that went awry. Ordered 2 pieces, they sent 2 pairs of 2 kinds, 9/16" fuzzy whisker strips like original and "flocked" J-Channel. For the outer I know a chrome bead is for cars without beltline molding and black for cars with the molding. For the inner our Rivs have the chrome flashing as part of the strip that runs along the top edge of the bolster. As incorrect the J-Channel is, this product has the same flashing as on the inner door panel. The J-Channel is recommended for exterior installations. Back to the outer fuzzy strips, the J-Channel flashing doesn't look too bad although incorrect. Today, manufactures claim the fuzzy strips are for interior applications only. Reverse to what I'm considering! The flocked J-Channel is definitely superior to the fuzzy whisker strips. I am inclined to use it on the inner door panels because of the chrome flashing. For correctness, I can continue with the original style fuzzy whisker strips on the outer steel moldings. The flocked J-Channel would work here too but that chrome flashing would sit on top of the chrome molding. I have enough J-Channel to do inner and outer on both doors. The images are of the outer application only and difficult to imagine. I tried to show all 3 at once 1) J-Channel positioned on and away from the outer molding showing that flashing on top, 2) profile of the J-Channel and 3) A new 7/16" original Fuzzy strip w/o the chrome bead. Anyone have some insight on this? John B.

Loosen the console for things like rear carpet, don't remove it if you can help it! Work from the top with front/rear ashtrays and shifter plate removed. I know now! I've had god results with SEM plastic spray bomb precededwith SEM 38363 "Sand Free" Adhesion Prep. John B.

I'm like David except a little more than a 1/3. I'd like to think 2/3s complete. Alright, I'll go ahead and post a pix or 2 from a week ago but was hoping to post more recent images. Didn't progress much since. While everyone here made progress this weekend, I helped my son installing a 'done-up' S54 engine in his M3. He is the one who twisted my arm to bring the Riv out of a 25 year sleep. Then his tastes changed, hence the BMW M3 and others! My '63 had a totally trash black interior from top to bottom with 2 speaker holes hacked in each door, busted-up console and a hacked-up dashboard wiring harness. I did a complete colour change from my parts to red. I changed everything, headliner to dynamat under the carpet. I only had only one dash piece to paint red, a bang-on colour match. The new Pwr-Brake and E-Brake pads were molded a little off in colour (too light). New kick panels and sill plates are in. Still do do, is to drill out aftermarket seat belts (17/32"?) to work with the original anchors. Then door panels, speedometer once I fix the electro-cruise and of course the bucket seats. The Console was an utter $hit show. I blame the remaining deficiency on the dash not being 90 degrees perpendicular to the console or specifically drive-shaft tunnel. I went into this thinking "just throw in an interior and be done". Little did I know fixing things like a turn signal switch, clock, AM/FM Delco radio, snapped die-cast HVAC levers and cables, rusted-out fuse panel all had to be brought back to life! I took a break from the interior to fix the wiper motor and blower motor, also NG! Oh, where do you source a Fuel Tank P/U & Sender assembly? . . . . anyone? Daryle, "upholstery clamp doo hickeys"? What do they look like?

Absolutely gorgeous Brian! But that seat is too far back. Little ones will complain back there. LOL When I post my '63 interior pix, yes leather, but the '65 veneer, wood wheel, rear arm-rest and your parcel shelf. Awesome! That parcel shelf a fiberglass version from Clark's? John B.

The TH400 is a vintage transmission but I know of plenty of places that can do it in my area. So shipping a heavy item like this should be minimal. Based on this, if a rebuild is in order, I would farm-it-out. Since these shops don't see many TH400s, they will rebuild yours with your parts and not be building several TH400s in the same production run. Something you don't want. But the big places can test them. For me, no need to go to a production place. There are a few specialty places that will take it on with knowledge on TH400 upgrades such as Trans Go shift kits and center supports. Search for a Jim Weise write-up on the TH400 from trishieldperformance.com (V8Buick.com). He mentions the 1965 to 1970 TH400s being the better transmissions. He has good info on it. Two years ago, I removed a 1966 BOP ST400 just to strip it of the switch pitch torque converter and front pump assembly. If it was a nailhead ST400, I would've purchased the whole transmission! Now thinking I should've bought the whole unit. Good choice on the TH400. John B.

I concur with Brian. For my '63, the passenger plastic panel under the carpet was 10 minutes, all lined-up, easy. Didn't have to play with the bracket at the heater vent. I was unaware of a cardboard piece until now. Don't need it with stiff carpet. The steel scuff panel on the driver's side was a struggle as most 3-point contacts are. It's always the 3rd screw! The 3 vertical holes on the console front edge, only the bottom 2 are used. The top edge of the scuff panel with the notch tucks into that hockey stick molding. My challenge was the hole in the floor next to the accelerator. There were 2 and neither lined-up. I could move the nose of the panel left and right but not up and down. So I drilled a new hole and covered the old holes with pieces of Dynamat. I then installed the carpet. I discovered the curvature of the carpet wouldn't allow me to reach my new hole, too far from the accelerator pedal. I had to drill yet another hole with the carpet in-place. Image #1: 1965 console with 1963 pieces. Notice the middle screw missing, doesn't line-up in original or another hole someone drilled.. Image #2: 1963 console with the same pieces and both scuff panel screws line-up in original holes. Both consoles(and a 3rd that's installed) had extra middle and lower holes drilled by previous assemblers I'd say start with the lower hole on the console then look for a hole next to the accelerator. If the panel reaches it, use it. Now that notch should tuck into that hockey stick piece. The last item is that middle hole. If it doesn't line up, drill a new one, it's all covered up anyway.

David, I can't tell and black is more common for comparison. Used to seeing original dashpads all doctered-up with Armour-All type treatments making them shine a lot. Yours has more of a flat finish, nice.. Don't leave us hanging. I'd want to know which it is! John B.

Another Big Ticket item. Gene, you wouldn't want to ship a light bulb to Canada! John B.

Thanks Tom, but too ratty for my interior. Will hang on to them in case I decide to have them re-webbed someday.

Not going to the detail as above because I have a '63. I believe GM sourced seatbelts in 1963 like we purchase aftermarket replacements today. I think they were all with black webbing. So, no detail and anything goes. I made the mistake of buying seatbelts and later finding the crusty originals. I prefer neither. I know I can freshen-up the originals by re-webbing in red, locally even. But again, they're not specifically GM offerings so why bother? I already installed the same red aftermarket seatbelts in the rear where there were none. So to continue with the aftermarket seatbelts, they have a hole for a 7/16" bolt. The originals have a 1/2" hole for a 7/16" bolt with a 1/2" shank. This original bolt with the shank will not work with the new seatbelts. I do not want to use the ugly grade-5 bolt but was told the original bolt is unsafe and does not meet modern criteria. This bolt is in the image on the old black webbing. Enlarging the hole in the new seatbelts is considered a modification rendering them as non compliant or so the tag says. Anyone addressed this before? John B.

Ah, a fellow Canadian. Should've said so, I would've given you the Gold package! Here's another thought. I purchased my drive shaft with the flange as my '63 has the open yoke. It might be a mute point since you installed a 2nd drive shaft (almost as big of an impact as knowing what frequency you're dealing with) but that flange should have 4 each 3/8"-16 bolts of equal mass (w/washers?). There's more . . . . 3 of the 4 3/8" holes in my flange are rusted-out. Not only do I have a core drive shaft assembly requiring a total rebuild but, it came with a core pinion flange! To remedy, could use longer 3/8" bolts with nuts on the backside of the flange or drill-out all 4 holes and thread for 7/16"-14 bolts. For a member spinning up to 5000 RPM (95 mph?), I prefer the latter done by a machine shop of course. You want to minimize spinning parts here. The 'more part', is that 7/16" bolts still fits through the drive shaft hole without having to drill that out. Makes me wonder how much slop there is with the 4 bolts loose? There appears to be no precise centering, a design issue? Those 4 bolts could be tightened with the drive shaft slightly off centre. This is root cause stuff. Some of the symptoms between you two might be damage yet to be discovered. ie, a pinion seal might have been replaced earlier in the Riviera's life and the nut not torqued properly. David might have a front drive shaft issue. My thoughts and mostly FYI stuff. Joe, PM me, the Dude that sold me the drive shaft might still have that 3rd member minus the pinion flange. Might be a posi? John B.

Sorry for being so technical. I've dealt with this on a Fleet Chevy Van assigned to me decades ago. In a van, its like a noise chamber. The fleet auto shop Mechanic didn't like me bringing the Unit back with the same complaint. When asked about the gear wear pattern, "it's fine". I did my own analysis instrumenting the differential and axle with accelerometers and signals into a tape recorder. Data indicated the ring & pinion set. I outsourced the van to a driveline specialty shop where they replaced the Ring & pinion set. The old ring & pinion was visibly scored-up, no nice wear pattern. Oh, Drive shaft attaches with an open yoke like the '63 or, a flange like the '64 & 65? Why Lucas? Ripe bananas forced through the filler hole no good? LOL