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Wedgewood64

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About Wedgewood64

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  • Birthday 08/02/1966

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  1. An update from Rattletown. The first thing I tried was rerouting the lines away from one another, insulating each with insulated clamps. See photo. One thing that I was able to ascertain by doing this was that the rattle was clearly, 100% coming from the intake line (the larger one), not the return line. The other was that.... it didn't stop the rattle. It reduced it considerably. But the hammering was still working its way through the rubber to the bolts holding the clamps, and it was easily detectible. The second thing I tried was a new fuel pump and filter. No dice. Even
  2. I got a new switch in there, everything's functioning well. I wasn't able to find a how-to on wiring the suggested relay, so left that out. If anyone can point me the way to something explanatory (I have no real knowledge of electrics besides positive, and negative), I'd give it a try. The plug was a bit melted back there, though the wires themselves looked fine. BTW, Is it normal that the key can be removed in any position except ACC?
  3. Ah, ok, there are two things then. I found some pages here on the fusible links; but for the auxiliary relay, I haven't come up with the thread. I think it's safe to say I'm not an ace with the electrics so I'd need to be walked through it. What I did find, though, did remind me that I HAVE felt the heat from the ignition switch before, Ed. Maybe not too recently, and not the key, so at first, I didn't really get it. This lack of a relay is why there's the handy feature of the power windows working whether or not the ignition is on...? I like that feature; but I'm beginning to see the pro
  4. No (hot key). For the relay, I'll look it up. I was referring to the bit Tom Telesco published in the Riview in 2001 about a fire safety retrofit. I'm just wondering if this is the same fix under a slightly different name. Thanks all!
  5. Got it. By the relay, you're referring to the "fusible link" modification that has often been discussed? I've been meaning to do that...
  6. OK, makes sense. Simply replace switch, then? Jon (above) recommends testing. But if the problem comes and goes...?
  7. I think my only vacuum/pressure gauge is designed for air (?). So far, with light use, all is well. My diagnosis was based on the circumstances and the fact that the engine was catching, and there was plenty of fuel in the bowls and coming through the throttle pump... So I reasoned that the catching eliminated something like a broken wire in the distributor (have had those before, but not in the Riv), and the ample fuel eliminated a pump problem. I may have just gotten lucky. There was nothing visible in the carb, btw.
  8. Well, having used all my Berryman's on the tear-down, I went out with my can of starter stuff. Disconnected the battery charger. Waiting for my wife to get home to do the operation, well... it fired up fine. I'm a little mystified, when I tried it 3 hrs before, the symptoms seemed exactly those during the fail. The many mysteries of internal combustion. Thanks for the pointers, I apologize for the bother.
  9. This is probably obvious to a lot of you, but I could use a trouble-shoot. Replaced fuel filter. Drove 4 miles to Costco, filled up, parked, shopped. Leave Costco parking lot, cruise down road about 100ft... stall while moving. Drift to side. Restart; ignition catches, will even run for some seconds if I feather the pedal; but seems starved for fuel. Soon all that happens when cranking is that ignition catches immediately, immediately stalls. I verify fuel's pumping through the accelerator pump nozzles; put on old filter for good measure. No dice. Tow. (1st, I think, in 25 years of
  10. @ Ed, I was kind of wondering that myself; it has been a few years. It may help. I will try it. It's true that the problem does come and go. It's particularly annoying right now--now that I put new sound insulation in the whole interior... I would tend to think that if the lines were truly insulated with rubber, then the transmission of the hammering into the chassis wouldn't occur. The problem seems to me, though, that I'd essentially have to fit new clamps, b/c the stock ones leave no space for rubber insulation. Like gungeey, inspecting my lines, I'd say that there's no movement of the
  11. Well, not so simple for me, I don't know why. I tried getting the hose as close to the clamp as possible. No dice. Then I started putting in little wedges of cork here and there, just to make sure no vibrations were possible. (photo 1) No better. then I decided to try to put the hose over the line where it clamps--so clamping the hose and line together. To do that, b/c the clamp isn't big enough, I needed to leave out the feed line--so have only return line clamped. (photo 2) Left it like that as an experiment; but though it's a little better, it's still hammering away. When I go over to the l
  12. Returning to an old thread. When I had the tank out a while back I tried Jim Cannon's trick. While it improved the "rattle," it didn't make it go away entirely. Here are some photos: in one, you can see the whole length--must be at least 6" of line. What did I do wrong?
  13. well, here's my improvisation. I just snaps in. Won't fool anyone who knows, but I don't know anyone who knows. Note the difference between the Clark's dark blue and the originally upholstered seat back.
  14. I ended up going for a more off-road style. I couldn't see the 3-point harness in the light blue. I mounted the rear strap to metal under the package tray. Relatively straightforward. Will last the boy a few years until he won't tolerate the back seat...
  15. They did the job and I must say they stop very well. Haven't had to try a panic stop yet, but brakes felt strong from the first time out. Pads themselves ended up $126, arcing was $95. One thing that was clear on taking the old ones out was that for some reason my back brakes were doing most of the work, which explains as well why they would lock up but the front never did. I'm not sure why the front ones weren't doing their job. Anyway--I'm now a convert to arcing.
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