Wedgewood64

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About Wedgewood64

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  • Birthday 08/02/1966

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  1. Reactivating this old thread: since my old windlace was toast, I can't really tell how far up it went. It'd be great if someone cold post a photo--maybe especially just with the door closed, so I can see how the thing should fit at the top of the door. Many thanks.
  2. I am concerned about too much thickness, esp. around the tunnel. Won't overdo it. BTW, the hole plug I found was actually black, and matches the hole that in my car is at the top of the tunnel roughly where the rear lighter is.
  3. Thanks for all these pointers. Very helpful. I'm headed out to the garage now... nick
  4. no, not the veneer, the vinyl assembly, it's stapled and nailed to the same strip that the windlace is stapled to. (left edge)
  5. got it. wasn't expecting nails and staples. May never get the window up again... thanks!
  6. OK, so, I had the bright idea of redoing the carpet while I had the seats out for upholstery. Idea being to put in sound + heat insulation. For the latter, I decided to go with the Noico products on amazon. Now, I don't want to go overboard. Just clean it up, I guess wire-wheel the surface rust, then some sort of primer, then the Noico. What should I do with the floorboard plugs, the ones covered over with that factory gunk? Just Noico over that? or scrape off the gunk? If scrape, does it need some new sealer? Finally, since I'm here, there's a dime-sized hole in the floor near the gas pedal. While I was pulling out the carpet I did find a plug (interior color: blue) that looks like it could go in there. But maybe not. what's the hole for? Many thanks--
  7. Hello all, starting into some long deferred maintenance and will have to start up more than one thread. First up: I've just ordered the body manual, but while I'm waiting, can anyone explain how to get off the interior trim here? I'm trying to replace the windlace--and while I'm at it, the window fuzzies I've had around literally for 15 years. I saw a windlace thread, but I can't figure out how to get the trim panel off... I removed the rear screw, plus a screw in the door jam, but nothing's moving... Thanks!
  8. Success! Whole thing was easier than expected. I ended up simply cutting a new gasket and sealing it. Added the ground wire. And I bent the float arm up about 5/8 inch, which was a total guess but I ended up nailing it: when full, the needle now reads F and when empty, it reads E. I was surprised that the tank itself was so clean inside. I guess I was expecting 55 years of crud, but no. The 5/16 strainer sock I ordered from Summit was too small--maybe there's a OD vs. ID problem. But I just drilled it out a bit and stuck it on. Fit well. Worse part of the whole operation is definitely emptying the tank; but bleeding it out by jacking up the back and unhooking the hose behind the front wheel was easy enough. Did get a lot of gas down my sleeve...
  9. pulled the sending unit: my strainer sock wasn't as beat as Bill's, but getting a new one from summit. Interesting objects rolling around in tank, turned out: a spring, a rivet... Further question: the sending unit had a non-sealed cork gasket. Nice shape, totally reusable. But: to seal or not to seal? I noticed from stains on top of tank that it would appear gas got out. thanks, nick
  10. oh, duh, right. Brain upside-down. For some reason I thought those ran in the channels for the holding straps...
  11. Thanks Bill, Ed, Jframe. I guess I'll venture into the tank, then. Thanks Bill for reposting that picture of the ground wire set-up--I had seen it somewhere in the forum but then lost it. Those rubber insulators you added--not stock, right? What's the purpose? (Definitely need a ground with those, I guess). nick
  12. Hello all, After determining that the no doubt original rubber hoses from the tank were leaking, I just dropped the tank, according to the procedures found on the Forum. Happily, straightforward operation, tho I still smell like gas. After doing this, I kind of realized that I didn't really need to take the tank out -- I could have just let the front end of it down, I think, and changed the hoses. Well, anyway. So it's out. Now, aside from taking on the Riviera Rattle problem (helpfully diagnosed on: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/211803-riviera-rattle-first-generation-cause-and-repair/?tab=comments#comment-1087545), should I do anything else now that it's out? my fuel gauge shows 1/4 when empty, and buries the needle when full: but do I really want to mess with that? Should I leave the nice yellow sender wire as is? And does all this moving around risk dislodging crap that will foul the filter? Any precautions on that front? Should I empty the bit of gas in there out? Many thanks in advance, Nick (ROA number ten thousand something)
  13. OK, well, not an authorized fix, but I just cut away a bit of that cardboard switch housing backing so that I could have easy access to the switch pin. Then I took a crimp connector with a female end that I crimped some till it fit snug over the pin. Then I just plugged in it. I think Rodney's handiwork was out of my league. Now all I need to do is remove that door skin to track down the seat issue. And I guess I can install those window fuzzies I ordered like 20 years ago... Thanks all! I was convinced I had done major mischief but not so much after all.