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About Wedgewood64

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  • Birthday 08/02/1966

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  1. ah, makes sense. Didn't seem terribly loose, but that must be it. I am working on the helicoil and thinking about an original pump. Gotta say that the previous pump--the one I replaced thinking it might be behind the rattle--was still working fine after about 20 years.
  2. Back on this. Taking it one step at a time, I removed the alternator/brackets. this let me remove the pump. I've tried to show in the photos how much the pump arm was bent, compared to the replacement I just purchased. in the side-to-side, the old one's the one on the right; in the over/under, it's the one on top. You can see the stress fractures in the arm. the side-to-side one shows that the old one's arm bends now to the right, while the old one slants left. the other photo (kind of) shows how the bends are now radically different... Now, I assume somehow on installation of the now ol
  3. Hi Ed, thanks, I think I wasn't clear, in that the pump's not coming out isn't because of the bolt, which removes just fine. it's in the arm/cam somewhere. And I'm all the more perplexed in that I did bump the engine 360 degrees to find a position where it would come out, but no dice. But it's probably one of those things where I'll go out there next time and it will fall right out... otherwise, I may need to take off some of those brackets, after trying to prod around with a screwdriver... nick
  4. Thanks everyone. I suspect 64 Rivvy works a good deal faster than I do. Anyway, the whole reason I'm in this mess (admitted not a horrible one) is that I did something I really didn't have to, so... I'm not inclined to go the timing chain cover route, esp. b/c the one I have on there is a good used one that replaced the original. Good, except the bolt hole. I was assuming that the advantage of the helicoil would be that it's a steel insert and thus the repair would presumably be more durable. Or that one can use the same bolt size? Anyway, I'll do one of the above, tap or helicoil--if onl
  5. Thanks to all. As for actually removing the pump, I'm still stumped on that one but I will try a screwdriver.... it's weird, I mean, from past experience getting it out is the easy part. For the threads, I'm wondering about the Helicoil: Ed, when you say "insert," I assume you mean drill out, thread, then insert. but can one do a good job of that with the timing cover on the engine? or am I really looking at... what I don't want to look at? nick
  6. Hello all, Replaced the fuel pump a couple of months ago in search of possible cure for my bad case of Riviera Rattle (thread elsewhere). So, maybe with about 200 miles on it, it conks out. Delphi brand. OK, so, I go to change it out and find a) that in fact it was loose; and b) I swear, I can't get the thing out, even with the small alternator bracket support out. Twisting, turning... I even experimented turning the engine to see if that would help (I had started the swap at TDC, since that was what I understood worked best). So, frustrated I decided maybe things would be all better
  7. An update from Rattletown. The first thing I tried was rerouting the lines away from one another, insulating each with insulated clamps. See photo. One thing that I was able to ascertain by doing this was that the rattle was clearly, 100% coming from the intake line (the larger one), not the return line. The other was that.... it didn't stop the rattle. It reduced it considerably. But the hammering was still working its way through the rubber to the bolts holding the clamps, and it was easily detectible. The second thing I tried was a new fuel pump and filter. No dice. Even
  8. I got a new switch in there, everything's functioning well. I wasn't able to find a how-to on wiring the suggested relay, so left that out. If anyone can point me the way to something explanatory (I have no real knowledge of electrics besides positive, and negative), I'd give it a try. The plug was a bit melted back there, though the wires themselves looked fine. BTW, Is it normal that the key can be removed in any position except ACC?
  9. Ah, ok, there are two things then. I found some pages here on the fusible links; but for the auxiliary relay, I haven't come up with the thread. I think it's safe to say I'm not an ace with the electrics so I'd need to be walked through it. What I did find, though, did remind me that I HAVE felt the heat from the ignition switch before, Ed. Maybe not too recently, and not the key, so at first, I didn't really get it. This lack of a relay is why there's the handy feature of the power windows working whether or not the ignition is on...? I like that feature; but I'm beginning to see the pro
  10. No (hot key). For the relay, I'll look it up. I was referring to the bit Tom Telesco published in the Riview in 2001 about a fire safety retrofit. I'm just wondering if this is the same fix under a slightly different name. Thanks all!
  11. Got it. By the relay, you're referring to the "fusible link" modification that has often been discussed? I've been meaning to do that...
  12. OK, makes sense. Simply replace switch, then? Jon (above) recommends testing. But if the problem comes and goes...?
  13. I think my only vacuum/pressure gauge is designed for air (?). So far, with light use, all is well. My diagnosis was based on the circumstances and the fact that the engine was catching, and there was plenty of fuel in the bowls and coming through the throttle pump... So I reasoned that the catching eliminated something like a broken wire in the distributor (have had those before, but not in the Riv), and the ample fuel eliminated a pump problem. I may have just gotten lucky. There was nothing visible in the carb, btw.
  14. Well, having used all my Berryman's on the tear-down, I went out with my can of starter stuff. Disconnected the battery charger. Waiting for my wife to get home to do the operation, well... it fired up fine. I'm a little mystified, when I tried it 3 hrs before, the symptoms seemed exactly those during the fail. The many mysteries of internal combustion. Thanks for the pointers, I apologize for the bother.
  15. This is probably obvious to a lot of you, but I could use a trouble-shoot. Replaced fuel filter. Drove 4 miles to Costco, filled up, parked, shopped. Leave Costco parking lot, cruise down road about 100ft... stall while moving. Drift to side. Restart; ignition catches, will even run for some seconds if I feather the pedal; but seems starved for fuel. Soon all that happens when cranking is that ignition catches immediately, immediately stalls. I verify fuel's pumping through the accelerator pump nozzles; put on old filter for good measure. No dice. Tow. (1st, I think, in 25 years of
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