fxrspjc

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About fxrspjc

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  • Birthday 10/28/1958

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    fxrspjc@verizon.net

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    Staten Island, NY & Cape Coral FL.

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  1. I used the 64, 65 Carrier Bearing. It's about 1 1/2 inches or so lower in height. I purchased a new bearing and housing then cut it up so that it was the exact same height as the 64, 65. I didn't want to have to redrill the frame so I reworked the housing. It came out mint.
  2. Hey Joe, Sorry to hear that your still vibrating. I actually just finished up yesterday. So I'm finally done. No vibrating at any speed and I mean I cruised it for over 10 miles at 75 to 85 mph on Rt 75 in FL last night. It was bad ass. With the 323 I was running 2K at 80 with the torque converter locked up. This ride flies. No vibration anywhere at the lower speeds eather. I'm gonna start a class on this in September if anyone would be interested in attending. It will be titled "The Proper DynaFlow to 700R4 Transplant". No actually what I found is that all of the problems I experienced were from bad parts. I purchased all of the conversion parts from a gentleman from up near Tinton Falls FL. He had them installed in a 63 and he said he hated it and was ripping it all out to convert back to the DynaFlow. At the time I didn't understand why he would give up, but now I do. I just went through a year of hell because of those parts. I saved about $800.00 and drove myself nuts. First off was the Bellhousing adaptor. It had a hairline crack in it at the top of the 2:00 bolt hole, so I had the same area on on each side reinforced by a aluminum welder in Cape Coral. He platted both sides inner and outer. That my friend will never crack again and I strongly recommend and considering doing this swap does this reinforcement before the install. Next problem was the flywheel. The one I got as part of the conversion parts had a washed welded on it. My partner in crime Gene said Joe don't use that flywheel someone messed with it and I said Gene it came off a 401 nailhead my 425 is the same exact thing. It must have been balanced with the washer because of the conversion kit. Well I used it, Gene was right, I was wrong. When I started the car I thought the rearview mirror was gonna fly off and hit me in the head for being so stupid. So I ended up buying a brand new flywheel from Bendtsen being they produced the original kit. That was the end of that problem. Next up the infamous driveshaft. At this point I would like to recommend that anyone thinking about this conversion go with a 200 R instead of the 700R. The main reason is the dimensions of the transmission. The 200 R is not as long therefore you don't have to wack off as much of the front shaft as the you do with the 700r. This in itself allows for a much shallower operating angle of the trans universal which becomes more important as we progress. So one of the problems of the driveshaft was balancing but much more important for me was the phasing of the shaft. Do to the fact that the driveshaft I purchased as part of the used parts package was phased at zero degrees there was a vibration. But who knew. My major problem was that I knew nothing about phasing and every one of the 4 driveshaft shops I went to all insisted all driveshafts are phased at zero degrees. So now I know nothing about phasing driveshafts and through suggestions and the fact that the carrier bearing that I purchased as part of the drive shaft in the kit was a inch and a quarter shorter I moved to changing the angle of the rear end, carrier bearing and trans mount. This was the beginning of the end for me. At one point the vibration was so bad the dashboard was shaken. The best I could get it was a vibration either between 20 and 25 MPH with the lower carries bearing (64 & 65) or between 40 and 45 with the taller bearing (63). I swear I was at the point where I bought a fresh bottle of Jack Daniels and a new box of Wilkinsons and I was heading for the bathtub. Then someone told me about the shop manual and drive shaft phasing. I also had to learn the concept of how a universal joint actually functions. I explained what I was trying to accomplish to a tech at Spicer and he told me to throw out the shop manual because due to the change in trans length and carrier bearing height nothing was going to work as described in the manual anyway. Well anything but the phasing. He told me the main thing was that no working angle should be more then 3 degrees and that no opposing u-joint should be more the 1/2 degree in drifference. This deal is a course by itself. But I learned it all, I now understand it all, and I understand how to figure the working angles and to be able to get it into the proper operating spects. It all works great but guess what? I still had the vibration but much less severe. On to phasing. Now I know my flywheel is good, my drive line angles are ALL CORRECT all I have left at this point was the phasing. I went back to a shop that worked on the shaft before. I'm not gonna mention the name of the shop but it's not good. First off they didn't want to phase it to 101 degrees they said I was nuts. So I showed them the shop manual and they reluctantly agreed to do it. After I installed it was much better but no quite perfect. I pulled it out and checked the phasing myself with a digital gage which I now own because of setting up all the drive line angles. Turns out he was off by 3 degrees. I brought it back to him and he went nuts and threw me out of the shop and said I was wasting his time. Said even if that was the problem 3 degrees wouldn't matter. So off I go to another shop in another town. This shop "Specialty Parts" of Charlotte Harbor FL. set it at a perfect 101 degrees rebalanced it and brother I'm done. I have never lived through any type of Sh&t like this in my life. This has been going on for over year. This was one of the biggest PITA I have ever dealt with and I'm so glad it's over. What I will say at this point is that it's a different car. It's so much more fun to drive. The 700 R has a super low 1st gear and a real tall OD. This thing really rips and 70 mph is 18 to 19 hundreds RPM's. Can't wait to check the highway MPG. My next project is to go from the 323's to a set of 356's. What problems will I manage to create during this change. Stay tuned for upcoming disasters. Stay warm my friends. If anyone would like to discuss any parts of this feel free to give me a call. Best to everyone always and thank you to everyone that helped with information and basic knowledge of these cars. I could have never ever accomplished this with out this site. Thank you all again!!!!!! Joe Cannizzaro 917.582.1471
  3. Hey Guy's, I'm still living in my own HELL. Seems everything I do makes my situation worse. I do have a friend in Sellersville PA that has a bunch of Riviera's different years. I'm pretty sure he will have a complete 65 set up for you. It will have to be completely rebuilt before installing it, as any driveshaft would need rebuilding being over 50 years old. His name is James his number is 215.767.0845. Tell him Joe Cannizzaro from Staten Island with the white 63 gave you his contact info. Good Luck! I just got back down to FL where I keep my car. I'm in the Phasing Stage right now but I can't say at this point if my last move made a difference yet. I just went from 0* to 101* as per my original 63 shaft and the shop manual, but I think they screwed up the carrier bearing yoke or whatever you want to call that piece. Anyway keep posting as I will also and give Jim a call. Best Wishes. Joe Cannizzaro 917.582.1471
  4. Honestly don't think I'm nuts, but you may want to try and work out some kind of deal with the guy that let you drive his car to borrow his complete shaft just to try it. If the problem is still there at least you could save yourself a lot of aggravation knowing it has nothing to do with your shaft. Then you could move on to other things. Mine being a shorter length makes it impossible for me to try someone's stock unit. Also if he agrees take many pictures of his out of the car so you can mimic the one you own. Also just for shits and grins check the phasing on his shaft while its out. Speak soon on my way to work. Joe
  5. Hey There JC, I put a 700R in mine have now own at least a half a dozen driveshafts. I still have the vibration and am now working in the Phasing stage. I don't live in the same state as the car is in so I don't get to work on it often. This has been, if not the worst, at least in the top three of the most discouraging things I have ever addressed in my life. Some mechanics say I'm just gonna have to learn to live with it. Seems everything I try just moves the location of the vibration up or down the speed range or makes it worse. I was trying to preserve the motor. Mine has the original optioned 425 which from what I understand is supposed to be a pretty big deal in a 63. The sad part for me is that having the car in FL. most of the traveling I do with it is up and down RT 75. Man if you can't run at 70 + mph you had better stay on the porch. That is why I did away with my trouble free Dynaflow. Anyway if you need to vent to save your sanity feel free to e-mail me and I'll send you my phone #. If your car is all stock and this started the first thing I would do is replace the center carrier bearing. Maybe the rear bushings. If you altered anything like me " Change Trans" good luck. Seems once you change the configuration of the geometrics of the original design all hell breaks loose. My biggest question is, how are the people that bag these cars able to continue to drive them? Best Wishes, Joe fxrspjc@verizon.net
  6. Hodge Podge to say the least. I think what you are saying about the trans height and shimming it is right on point. I will use that as a starting point. I'll measure the difference in height from the bottom of the trans mount to the center of the output shaft on both the Dynaflow and the 700r4 and try and determine where the trans should sit on the cross member in relationship to height. Then I'll try to make up the difference with trans shims or carrier bearing shims. Hope if anything has to be shimmed it's the trans as not to disturb the rear shaft angle. I will also set up the phasing of the shaft as a copy of the original shaft which I still have that no one has ever messed with and has no vibration. It looks like it's at 101 and that is where I'm going to start from. I'll also use the carrier bearing from the 63 which is the taller of the two at about 5 1/4 inches. Man I hope that if the trans has to be moved it's up and not down. Do you have any idea of where I could buy new CV joints for the rear half of a 65 shaft? I found rebuilding kits, but if I do a rear half shaft with CV joints I would like to buy them new if possible. Thanks again for your time Tom. I'm sorry to keep bothering you
  7. Sorry, the picture of my shaft is on the first page of this thread not above, sorry.
  8. Hey Tom's, So guy's I'm getting ready to re-phase the drive shaft for my 63 with the 700r4 that is now set at 0 deg. I believe the 63 Riviera is a 4700 series. Based on the figure 6-69 on page 6-33 of the 63 shop manual shows it 101 deg for a 4700 series. Although throughout the thread I believe everyone is in agreement with the shaft being phased at 37.5. So my question is where did the 37.5 come from if not the service manual. I see 2 basic possibilities. Set it at 37.5, or set it at 101 which is set it like the one is set that was originally in my car with the Dynaflow and didn't vibrate at any speed. ( Please see the picture above of my original shaft on the right.) Sure looks much more like 101 than 37.5. Am I looking at this correctly? Please see my drawing. The people at the driveshaft shop think I'm out of my mind and I'm beginning to wonder myself. I know you told me about the tool on e-bay to set up the pinion angle but when I went to purchase (The Same Day) it it was already sold. That my friend is the story of my life. Please look at the drawing I did. Is this right? Do I have this right? Incidentally the one that I have on the left side with the 2 CV joints is a 65 unit that looks like the 67.5 doesn't it?
  9. Tom, Looks like your right. The previous owner gave this manual to me when I bought the car. Guess he didn't have the right one and now neither do I.
  10. I have one in my shop manual that shows 90. I think I'm just going to lay my original un-messed with shaft next to the new shorter one and set the new one to look just like the original one.
  11. Hey Rapom, Do you know about Phasing the driveshaft? It's what I'm working on now thanks to Tom. Who built your drive shaft and is it set at 67.5 degrees out of phase or is it set up like most shops do them at 0 degrees or straight up. That's what I think my problem is now. I have a 63 with a shortened driveshaft for a 700R. The drive shaft came back at 0 degrees so I'm gonna clock it to 37.5 degrees and see how it goes. I'll post what is happening as I move along. Joe
  12. Hey Rapom, Thanks for getting back to me and sharing your experience. I have a guy in SWF that takes 1 1/4 inches out of the 63 Carrier to make it 4" total as it is in the 64 & 65. I let you know how this all works out at the end of the deal. Thanks again! Joe