fxrspjc

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About fxrspjc

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  • Birthday 10/28/1958

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    fxrspjc@verizon.net

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    Staten Island, NY & Cape Coral FL.

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  1. Hodge Podge to say the least. I think what you are saying about the trans height and shimming it is right on point. I will use that as a starting point. I'll measure the difference in height from the bottom of the trans mount to the center of the output shaft on both the Dynaflow and the 700r4 and try and determine where the trans should sit on the cross member in relationship to height. Then I'll try to make up the difference with trans shims or carrier bearing shims. Hope if anything has to be shimmed it's the trans as not to disturb the rear shaft angle. I will also set up the phasing of the shaft as a copy of the original shaft which I still have that no one has ever messed with and has no vibration. It looks like it's at 101 and that is where I'm going to start from. I'll also use the carrier bearing from the 63 which is the taller of the two at about 5 1/4 inches. Man I hope that if the trans has to be moved it's up and not down. Do you have any idea of where I could buy new CV joints for the rear half of a 65 shaft? I found rebuilding kits, but if I do a rear half shaft with CV joints I would like to buy them new if possible. Thanks again for your time Tom. I'm sorry to keep bothering you
  2. Sorry, the picture of my shaft is on the first page of this thread not above, sorry.
  3. Hey Tom's, So guy's I'm getting ready to re-phase the drive shaft for my 63 with the 700r4 that is now set at 0 deg. I believe the 63 Riviera is a 4700 series. Based on the figure 6-69 on page 6-33 of the 63 shop manual shows it 101 deg for a 4700 series. Although throughout the thread I believe everyone is in agreement with the shaft being phased at 37.5. So my question is where did the 37.5 come from if not the service manual. I see 2 basic possibilities. Set it at 37.5, or set it at 101 which is set it like the one is set that was originally in my car with the Dynaflow and didn't vibrate at any speed. ( Please see the picture above of my original shaft on the right.) Sure looks much more like 101 than 37.5. Am I looking at this correctly? Please see my drawing. The people at the driveshaft shop think I'm out of my mind and I'm beginning to wonder myself. I know you told me about the tool on e-bay to set up the pinion angle but when I went to purchase (The Same Day) it it was already sold. That my friend is the story of my life. Please look at the drawing I did. Is this right? Do I have this right? Incidentally the one that I have on the left side with the 2 CV joints is a 65 unit that looks like the 67.5 doesn't it?
  4. Tom, Looks like your right. The previous owner gave this manual to me when I bought the car. Guess he didn't have the right one and now neither do I.
  5. I have one in my shop manual that shows 90. I think I'm just going to lay my original un-messed with shaft next to the new shorter one and set the new one to look just like the original one.
  6. Hey Rapom, Do you know about Phasing the driveshaft? It's what I'm working on now thanks to Tom. Who built your drive shaft and is it set at 67.5 degrees out of phase or is it set up like most shops do them at 0 degrees or straight up. That's what I think my problem is now. I have a 63 with a shortened driveshaft for a 700R. The drive shaft came back at 0 degrees so I'm gonna clock it to 37.5 degrees and see how it goes. I'll post what is happening as I move along. Joe
  7. Hey Rapom, Thanks for getting back to me and sharing your experience. I have a guy in SWF that takes 1 1/4 inches out of the 63 Carrier to make it 4" total as it is in the 64 & 65. I let you know how this all works out at the end of the deal. Thanks again! Joe
  8. It makes a lot of sense to me. So the rear shaft will be basically set up stock and the trans could be shimmed to make up any difference the longer transmission may have in the drive line. Tom thanks so much for these points I'll let you know how it all works out as soon as I have the time to give it a shot. Best Wishes Always, Joe
  9. Another quick question, Will I have to get the driveshaft re-balanced each time I adjust the phase? I'm thinking so but I'm hoping not. Also after thinking about it I think I'm gonna try the original 63 set up at 37 1/2 first because I don't have any CV joints anywhere on the shaft. Also I'm going to run the lower 64 and 65 carrier bearing due to the front shaft being shorter on the 700R4 then the Dynaflow or more like the 400 turbo then the Dynaflow. I think the lower carrier will take some of the angle out of the front shaft. Just my thoughts. If any of this doesn't sound like it makes sense please correct me. Thanks much guy's, have a good night. Joe
  10. Thanks Tom You guys are definitely the deal. I would love to read it.
  11. I think I was playing hooky in school during Trigonometry. How did you know how to spell that? I actually read the part about the tool and the string. I was hoping someone actually knew the angle so I could just set it up with a gauge. Do you know if that tool available for purchase anywhere? Thanks much!
  12. Thanks so much Tom. I do have a shop manual. I'll try to check it out in the am. Or by the weekend anyway. Work tomorrow. Best Wishes and Thanks Again
  13. Oh by the way does anyone know the pinion angle of a 63? I would like to set that if possible before I start chasing the phasing so I'm not running in circles. Thanks much!
  14. Thank you both for your input. Thank you for taking your time to write this for me. It's greatly appreciated. No one seems to have know about this. You could see that the shaft I'm running is phased straight up. I need to find myself a drive line guy here in south west FL. that understands this situation. Again thank you ALL for taking the time to be so helpful. A couple of last thoughts. I ask the driveshaft guy down here about adding the 2 CV joints like the 65 has. As you can see mine has none nor did the original driveshaft on the right of the picture. Anyway he didn't like the idea. He said it would be much better to correct the problem without them. But can it be cured without them? Any thoughts? Also without the CV joints would you try to set it up as a 63 or a 65 first 63 1/2 or 67 1/2? Or may it end up with some variation between the two points? Any thoughts so I'm not chasing my tail? Again Thank You All, Joe