XframeFX

Trouble-shooting can be confusing. Don't under estimate your abilities. In your assessment, are your symptoms related to 1 problem or do you have several problems? Keep that in mind when trouble-shooting. I use process of elimination. I'd remove AC off horn relay and neg. battery post when doing checks. Check V @ Horn Relay with engine running. 14 Vdc? Note, Amp light is not grounded but floating. It should see the same volts on each side other wise it will illuminate if there is a difference (as in engine at 0 RPM). A regular 194 bulb for the AMP light I hope, no LED here. Back to your Ign Switch. With switch in RUN, IGN-1 and ACC contacts should be closed for Amp light to remain off when charging (engine running of course) With an original External V. Regulator, your Alternator should be a 10DN type. It has a sq. connector for F & R plugged into it. Good Luck Mark!

Mark, any progress? It appears you might have more than one issue with your wiring. What year Riviera? All original? A multi-meter is a must when trouble-shooting. I'd say removing your ignition switch, re-inserting the lock and testing for continuity from BAT to various contacts according to switch position is a starting point. IGN-1 is 'ON' and IGN-2 is 'Start' The connector appears to be in rough shape. Releasing each contact from the connector 1-at-1 time, cleaning and re-inserting so they lock into place is a good idea while the switch is out.

Mike, I am in a similar situation. My Riv's current 'regular' plates expired in 1985. I can renew as a 'regular registration' with annual fees. However, opting for a continuous Alberta 'Historic' License plate is a no-brainer, a 1-time fee. But, I was unaware of any restrictions. This, along with distinctive character format makes the Historic plates even less desirable. I don't want to stand out. As far as I'm concerned, the restriction is our winter (and COVID-19). So, for the 6.5 months of non-winter, I intend on driving my ride as much as I please. To eastern Canada, Branson MO, anywhere! Buying road insurance in the spring will then allow me to license my ride. I will try registering my 1985 plates as 'Historic'. However, the inability to register a 'personal' license plate as 'Historic' has me doubtful on using my old plates with their rigid rules.

Wasn't Ed referring to different displacements of the SAME engine (400, 430, 455), not the Nailhead? Or, Am I mis-interpreting all this? Ditto on rings. The only ring dimension that would be "designed" the same is OD.

Mike, my rear package tray is staying 'put' for now. It is at the bottom of my 'big ticket' item list for my Riv. Thanks anyway. I believe Clark's fiberglass tray includes the cover. It is pricey but worth it. However, shipping quotes sent the total cost over-the-top for me. I went with the cardboard and now wish I paid the $$$.

No, purchased package shelf from CARS back in 2016 Clarks' does not do USPS. So, its those Courier Companies with their numerous hardship fees - the culprits. I like your run up in the NE Ray. In my younger days, I was on a business trip to Boston with contacts in Lynn. I was treated to lunch in an industrial area at the port. Must have missed the rush because the restaurant was deserted. "What's good on the menu here" I asked. The reply, "Lobster Pie"! Wouldn't you know, they brought out a large bowl of fresh lobster drenched in melted butter with bread crumbs on top. Not sure if I could handle that today. What a treat!

(780) Up on Top - Edmonton Canada

I hope Corvair.com will still do those fiberglass package shelves. I'm not happy with the cheezy flat cardboard deal I reluctantly installed. For those door panels, best to not disturb. It deteriorates every time hey are removed/handled.

Tough enough to find a '66 Nailhead Q-Jet intake manifold! The image is the 1st I've seen for a '66 Riviera GS, must be ultra rare like the 2X4.

I'd try the usual adapter from NAPA and see if you have clearance to the Hood. They're cheap. The other way is to swap the top from an original AFB with that of the Edelbrock clone carb. The choke is different but will work.

I re-cored some of my 1963 HVAC cables only to find oldairproducts.com offering full sets: https://www.oldairproducts.com/products?filtercache=d585b314-b199-49d2-86c6-835f5013b0a3 Speaker? You must be using a 1964 - 65 Dashpad like I am. I mounted corrugated plastic poster board in the speaker grill and an acoustic exciter off-center to clear HVAC levers. Doesn't sound nearly as nice as the 3-Way 6X9 between the rear seats, good for talk shows/news only. Also, using a 1/4"-28 well nut as the pivot for those levers work extremely well! I placed a supplemental Fuse Box on the inboard evap bracket to be accessible. 4 Fuses, 2 for switched 12V and 2 for live 12V.

'Recent Outing' in January? Must be nice!

I like the fit of Steve's Glovebox door and the console gap to pass. kneepad panel. As for ordering a new GM back in 1964. My Dad did the same but at 9 years of age, he left me out of the process. He discussed it with the gang at work I'm sure. What did he order? A 1965 Chevrolet Biscayne 4 door sedan stripper with only 3 options, a 283 V8 because he thought it would start better than a six in the winter. The 2nd option was positraction because he thought it would save him the expense of winter tires for the rear. The 3rd option was undercoating applied at the Dealer. It arrived at the dealer without positraction. I remember our new car on a lift at the dealership where they swapped the whole rear axle for a 12-Bolt posi. Living in the rust capital of North America, it became a rust bucket in 5 years no matter how much my Dad took care of it with washes and oil spray. So I guess what you are saying is that Dealerships were asshats back in the 60's also. When it was my turn to order a new Buick in 1986, I experienced corruption at Dealerships twice. It took over a year to purchase my Grand National as posted here: Good Luck with the search for Dad's Riviera.!

I recently discovered 'Roof Flashing' when doing my Door Veneer, about 10 mils thick. A GOOD idea applying it to the backside of plastic skirting. However, about 2-months too late for me. But someday the driver's seat will have to come out to get the power seat tilt shaft to engage. Thanks for sharing Bill. 🌲Merry Christmas to all the regulars and visitors here!🌲

Many of us restore used or do fabrication because of no reproduced parts especially if the part is not visible. If the part is reproduced, one should do research and demand images showing details. The reproduced parts must live up to expectations or why bother going to great lengths to get it to your door? For images. I am perplexed on why vendors think its OK to show seatbelt sets LATCHED and no scale along side a part made in different sizes! In this case, it was eventually made obvious that the repro retractor set in Red above does NOT include the Bases for the '65 Riviera application. The Vendor never replied to my e-mail. So, I'm not proceeding with a purchase. Research, research. Post, post. Share, share!

Wow, I thought Cardone offered remanufactured units but no longer see it on rockauto.com It would be nice to pick up a reman. unit and trade-in your core instead of a meticulous restoration. It's hidden inside the fender so doesn't have to be perfect in appearance. There's always used as a solution.

Jim, FYI, that link in your signature block, Jim's 1963 Riviera, no longer works.

Alex, Your GS is nice. Of course I snagged that image of your interior!

Nima, I didn't think a Red interior was a trim offering in '65. but I like it. The wood inserts sure is a step up from veneer! Thanks for sharing.

Tom, many thanks. Becoming clearer now. If I encountered an actual '65 Riviera, I wouldn't have all these questions! I have the same assumption as you on those repro lapbelt sets with retractors. Tempting as Red is, no Riviera base. Not likely to find that base in anything else than a '65 Riviera. I encountered a '68 Riviera on Friday and it has a vertical anchor bolt where those repro sets would bolt right in. Thanks for that anchor bolt info, a big help!

I was at a wreckers yesterday. I looked long and hard at a '64 LeSabre with an aluminum drum on 1 side and a replacement steel on the other. In the next row was a complete '68 Riviera. I didn't even try to remove being lazy (Friday). Probably seized-on. Question: Being riveted, I'd have to buy the whole assembly. Were the 5-on-5 Hubs universal for the 60's?

Art, an observation of your 1964 glovebox. Yes, you have the same pump as a '63 but the lens for the glovebox light is not the round thingy that keeps falling out as in my '63. Also, a replacement glovebox? I don't see any binding on the front edge. Or, is that '63 only? Also, if the trunk flies open, adjusting the torsion rods should make it operate to your liking. Mention of GM Designers freeing up glovebox space with the '65 arrangement. 1st Generation Rivs had less deep gloveboxes for AC cars. Not trusting that old hose, I searched hi and lo for 244" of .1" or 3mm rubber hose. Could only find pre-cut packets of hose, no bulk. Frustrated, I installed that clear PVC☹️. I now know of a local supplier that has almost everything. Too late now, all together

Thanks Ed, 1-Key for all '63 Riviera Locks. If a pear shaped key is required for other GMs of that era, there's more than one. A 'D-Blank' should be correct and appears to be more difficult to source Briggs & Stratton

1-Key for '63 as well? So, my '63 has only the 1 octagon key and I have no B-U-I-C-K on my deck lid thinking maybe it is from another 1st Gen. Riv? I salvaged a complete lock set from a '63 parts car back in the '80s and still have it. The trunk lock has a pear shaped key and can't remember if it fits the glovebox lock as well.

But they are. They don't fail, just deteriorate. So, still reliable. Just that there's alternatives to contact points without changing the ignition system and that can be changed too. I still have this Niehoff adjuster in my toolbox!