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About patrickaturner

  • Birthday 01/02/1973

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  1. I recently purchased a 1964 Riviera that has been updated with a modern Edelbrock carburetor. The previous owner decided to also go with an Edelbrock air cleaner which I am not fond of. Fortunately, I have the stock air cleaner and hope to install it. Has anyone found a solid way adapt the old air cleaner with its 4.125" opening to fit a modern carburetor with a 5.125" opening without adding too much height?
  2. @RivNut, do you know if the horse shoe trim pieces are manufactured to fit a specific location (i.e. passenger side, lower) or are they universal?
  3. No worries @Black River. This is good information.
  4. @Black River, I can't tell from the photo, do you have the stock drums on the front, or have you converted to the car to discs? Nice car!
  5. Update on this thread: I was finally able to get all four wheels on the car. Here's what I ended up doing: 1. Removed stock front drum break setup and installed a Wilwood disc break kit (https://www.opgi.com/riviera/1963/brake-systems/disc-brakes/BR03001/) 2. Had a machine shop mill a chamfer on the end of the rotors to fit inside the center bore of the wheels—the end of the hub on the rotor was hitting the outside end of the center bore of the wheel. 3. Also had the machine shop enlarge the center bore on all four wheels slightly. That way they fit perfectly around the hub of the front discs and on the stock rear drums. I'm pleased with the ways the wheels fit. No spacers needed. No funny mill work that will keep me from being able to rotate the tires front to back. And best of all, it rides great and stops much better. Next up I plan to rebuild the front end and install 1" lowering springs on all four corners.
  6. Hi @Grapeman, Are you running the spacers so your new wheels will clear the stock hubs? I bought an aftermarket set of wheels but they won't fit around the hubs on my 1963 Riviera. Did you need to install longer studs to make your wheels fit properly with the spacers? Thank you, Patrick
  7. Hello @Jim Cannon, Thanks for your interest in my car and your willingness to help decode its history. I have a few photos of the car, but not many detail shots. If you'll let me know what I should photograph, I'll shoot and upload photos of those details so you can get a closer look. The car is in pretty rough shape aesthetically, but mechanically it is very sound. I drive it pretty regularly and plan to restore it to near factory condition in the coming years. Any guidance you can provide on what definitely needs to be preserved would be much appreciated. It is pretty exciting to think that this car rolled off the line so early in 1963. Thanks, Patrick Turner
  8. Thanks for all the input. I had an inkling that this car was fairly early off the line, but wasn't sure how to verify that. The VIN on this car is 7J1001104 which would seem to jive with the low body tag number. This car also has power vent windows which is an option I've not seem on many 1963 Rivieras. My exposure to this year/model might be more limited than yours, Ed and Tom.
  9. Thanks for your help @1965rivgs. How can you discern the week of production from the body tag?
  10. I guess what I'm asking is, what does the "100" after the FB mean. Does that mean this was the 100th car off the line in 1963? Thanks for your help!
  11. According the decoder on the Riviera Owners Association website (http://rivowners.org/features/Ev_Stats/colortrim/63-65.html), I think this placard is indicating that this car is serial number 100.
  12. I'm trying to verify the serial number on my 1963 Buick Riviera. I thought that I had determined it based on this plate located on the firewall, but now I'm second guessing that. Is this the right place to find the serial number, or should I be looking somewhere else?
  13. Has anyone had any experience with putting a 1965 Riviera rear bumper on a 1963? I'd really like to clean up the rear of my 1963 by filling in the tail lights in the body and moving them to the bumper.
  14. Thanks for the detailed information Frank. Was the center bore on the Cal Custom spacers you bought large enough to fit around the hubs, or did you have to machine it to fit?
  15. I'm sure Summit would take the wheel back, but I really like the looks of the Boss 338 wheel. Since the wheel clears the rivets on the front drums, I supposed I could just have them all machined to clear the hubs. I will probably still need a 1/8" spacer on the front to clear the steering control arm, but that shouldn't be hard to find or have made. When I finally solve this puzzle I'll post some images so you can see how everything turned out.
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