CTX-SLPR

Went trolling through vendors to order a mount from to copy geometry and found Rubber The Right Way had dimensions on their site. Can someone check the stock metal sleeves to get an OD to size the bore to more exactly?

Well that got my attention, though not for the body mount part at first (which is on page 3). That leather wrapping job of the lower dash and console (not so much the other trim items) is very inspiring. Thanks for the reference.

Thanks for the reference, I’ll check it out.

I've ordered tempered glass with holes in it from a local glass company frequently for work. The laminated stuff gets harder to deal with as the drilling I don't think reacts well to the plastic layer. I remember the old school trick to cutting laminated glass down was to score one layer, fill the cut with alcohol and light it on fire to soften or burn the plastic then snap it. Never did it so could be wildly wrong there. The Sanders folks offer production off of your template so could try that and see what they say about both if the stocked stuff has a hole and if they could put one in. I know they give the option of tempered and laminated.

If I wanted the easy (car) life I’d own a Camaro or a Chevelle or have kept that Skylark I sold because I wanted a Riviera again.

I want to be clear, I am trying to reinvent the wheel here. So while I know I can buy mostly accurate round ones and functional round replacements for the rear oval bushings, I want to try different durometers. If I’m going to make molds, why not make an oval one? Thanks

They sell the round mounts but not the oval mount. Anyone have dimensions for the outside profile of the oval mount to try to make a mold for?

Howdy, My '64 is an early production with the '63 style windows and since I need to replace the glass, it seems like a good idea to swap up to the later style bolt in glass. Is it just swap the sashes out or are there more parts needed? Thanks

It’s not a stud, I never pulled any of the others to see if it was any longer but I remember for sure it’s a bolt with the head on top of the bracket annoyingly.

I'll admit I thought about rigging up a double glazed setup for the Riviera using custom glass templates so the back piece still uses all of the weatherstripping for seals but the outer piece and seal were undersized. Can't come up with a good way to evacuate all the moisture out in a DIY setup so mostly dropped the idea.

Never used these folks but have been eyeballing them for my weld/grinder splatter damaged side glass https://www.sandersreproglass.com/ They do offer a fair number of options for lamination, edge grinds, etc.

Is the Super 33+ higher temperature rated? I've had a lot of trouble with Super 33 turning into a gooey mess even inside the passenger compartment, much less the engine bay. The best stuff I've used is made by Plymouth and I was going to say it's expensive but Waytek Wiring has it for much less than what I remember https://www.waytekwire.com/brands/plymouth-rubber/Electrical-Tape Looks like I'll switch back to that stuff for the engine bay and keep the TESA tape for the cabin.

I piggy backed off of the hole for the HVAC cables in the center firewall grommet for my vacuum/boost gauge and the Tach input. The rest of mine I opened up the speedometer hole slightly since I no longer have a cable driven speedo and added a 30 position cannon plug to get the EFI and gauge signals through. If you are going to add a hole I’d suggest down by the throttle lever but closer to the midline of the car, that way it’s behind the console extension and pops out very close to where you’d tap into the oil pressure and water temperature sending units on the back of the block and head respectively.

The interior is a nightmare but the rest of it carries a theme. Not my taste but it is still Buick powered and has some form of glass in at least the front and back (and the wing windows) for the chopped top so it's had some decent thought and effort put into it.

Mind taking a picture top down like that first picture in front of the mirror? Thanks