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CTX-SLPR

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Everything posted by CTX-SLPR

  1. So the conclusion is the car got later hubs? Are the 45 and 90 fin drums cross compatible between the two generations of hubs?
  2. Would explain why they moved more like Al vs. the rigid pot metal. A friend has a TIG so I might see if he can rebuild some of it for me and I'll just metal work them back into shape afterwards.
  3. I plan on putting them mostly back to original except for going with gloss black between the ribs to start with to better match some other things on the white car. Are these things actually aluminum or are they pot metal? Right now I’m messing with the smaller ones that go on either side of the doors as they are small enough to handle and try the finishing process out on. I don’t feel as bad about riveting the bottoms of the long piece on the bottom side but not on the holes where the smaller panels have the screw heads. Thanks
  4. Howdy, Has anyone rebuilt the missing metal from the wallowed/corroded fastener holes on the rocker moldings? Material is just too thin to build up with JB weld to try and fill in. JB weld did however work great on filling in the deeper nicks and bumps. I'm beginning to think my only resort is muggyweld. Note, I'm not going to rechrome these with metallic chrome, just going to try and refinish them with chrome paint and a clear coat. Don't need perfection, but want to make them as nice as I can. Thanks
  5. Howdy folks, Working on restoring my somewhat battered but complete '65 rocker molding set. I have the disk kit but need to rebuild quite a few of the holes for the pieces that hold the upper segments on. I'm guessing by the more unmolested holes they are #8 sheet metal screws but wanted to check. Thanks
  6. The front edge of the parcel shelf is held down by nubs on the center speaker housing and the outer edges are held down by tabs on the trim pieces that close out the gap between the seat backs and the door panels. Not hard to get in and out so I'd put it back together now, seats come out in about 5min with most of the work being fishing the unified seat sections out the doors with the front seats in. If you're looking for a halfway house to make it drivable, put the seats in but leave the close out panels and the trim that goes along where the parcel shelf meets the sail panels out, that way
  7. I found my old set sitting in the back of a drawer. Sold the drums so can't test fit them anyore.
  8. The Rotors are the same for a 80's "Squarebody" Heavy Half ton. The lighter trucks had a different setup. I got mine through Tirerack but Rock Auto also has a solid selection of rotors. Edit: Oops saw the main bit this thread is pretty old. Hopefully the tip on the rotors works out for someone who runs across this.
  9. Holy Smokes is the shipping expensive! $196 for all for cards and nail strips. $120 in shipping to CA! I think I'm going to make my own cards! The nail strips are more reasonable at $122 for the set and $19 shipping.
  10. I have a '64 to start with but yes, I'm using the 4x10in speaker outlet except I found that if you are very careful you can use 4x10in speakers designed for Toyotas and sandwich them together in the opening I'd already pulled them off of the dash but you can see the four bolt pattern that holds them on. I did have to file the mounting ears a bit to get them to actually bolt on. I'm running a Painless 7 Circutboss with four switched and three constants on the defroster duct that handle the main items inside the cabin (there's another in the trunk for the stereo an
  11. The page numbers are links to the page with the parts. www.corvair.com
  12. Door Cards, they come raw pressed board and you pull your panels apart for the metal and trim (and maybe upholstry if you're going that far) parts. Pg 20 Per my cheat sheet printed shopping cart: 63-65 Riviera Door Cardboard (LF or RT) R188 Pg 20 63-65 Riviera 1/4 Panel Cardboard (LF or RT) R189 Pg 20 63-65 Nail Strip Set 2-Ft DRS & PASS R226 Pg 20 They also list assembled door panels on Pg 20 (R238) for a '64 with wood. Based on what Ray said that might not still be as complete.
  13. Good to know. I might need to jump on that before I'm doing yet more custom work on the car, this time because parts I had planned on had dried up...
  14. Clarks Corvair as most of the part's you'll need to rebuild a door card. The card, nail strips, wood kits, etc. I've not purchased any of those items from them but am very happy with everything else I have bought from Clarks interior wise and am planning on using their stuff when I redo my door panels in the next year or so.
  15. I have a set of H4 conversions for T3 bulbs I bought years ago (like 2005). They work great but I don't think the company that makes them is in business anymore. Wagner makes bolt in Halogen conversions for T3 bulbs (H5006 for the high/low and H5001 for just high) but like Mr. Tom T. points out, to get brighter you really need to get relays to pull from the battery directly and not put all the power through the switch.
  16. The terminals have a bad habit of backing out of the connector for the headlights. Check to make sure it's all the way down on the pin on the switch. Once I get the dash back in my '64 I can check as I also have a NAPA switch in mine but last I remember it was fully functional.
  17. Howdy, Been a bit since I've been over here but still plucking away at my '64 T-type restromod. Since I'm adding a bunch of things that need switches that weren't there originally I've picked up a pair of '63 HVAC panels. One is complete with all the arms in good shape and some of the cables still attached. The other has a broken lever but most of the levers are still functional. Since I need to cut the back end of one of them off so it'll clear the speaker and the suplimental fuse box I have on the defroster duct I thought I'd offer them up if anyone needs a good one or has on
  18. Went ahead and bought two cans of the CARS spray green since it was basically the same cost as a single can of brush on and I needed door switch boots anyway. We'll see how it turns out but since I'm painting a currently black engine its not like it'll have to match anything.
  19. Howdy, I have to pull the Turbo6 in the Franken-Riv to replace the rear main seal and have decided the black engine just gets lost in the black engine bay so I’m going Buick Green on the block and heads, “cast” aluminum on the intake, and black on the stamped/welded brackets. Big question is how to put the paint on? Of course I’m going to wire wheel and scrub the crap out of the outside of the engine to prep it but should I paint it with a foam brush out of a can or spray it with a rattle can? Planing on going with the CARS paint, just which one. Thanks
  20. Looks like the 60-62 Eldorado had a 4 prong switch. I emailed Gord to see if he can rebuild them with more contacts. Otherwise I’ll look into putting a diode network on the back of a Clarks type single terminal switch.
  21. My current switches are shot and if there is a drop in replacement (the switch mechanism itself looks to have spots for 4 contacts) with the needed terminal why add two separate switches in addition to the replacement stockers.
  22. Howdy, does anyone know if there is a 4 prong version of the 3 prong door switches in the 64-65 Rivieras? Need another ground point for a the seat back lock on the Acura seats I added. Thanks
  23. Thanks! I traced it to the breaker but didn’t check which side it was on.
  24. Howdy, Is the power seat supply wire fused? Don’t see it on the diagram or on the box. Thanks
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