CTX-SLPR

Tell me more about that black '70 there if you please.

Well one has been sitting on www.autotrader.com for at least two months now: 1988 Riviera T-Type $2,500 Looks pretty good till I got to the underhood picture and it's most of the way across the country from me here in CA. Still something that interests me.

It is, I asked the same thing and it's apparently how the Roadster Shop does it counting on the suspension being "free" enough to not need the isolation of body mounts. Personally, I think there is going to be a level of accepted NVH that the approach requires that is likely well worth the trade off for handling.

Been a bit both since there was an update and since I was home to repost the pictures Exhaust Update The owner as lamenting that he's going to miss Hot August Nights AND he only has 8wks till Goodguys and this is the status of the car Legendary Mark Stielow "supervising" work: A bit more work done in the interim

You can use a step bit to drill out thin stuff like the ends of grounding straps or eye terminals to fit over larger studs if needed. I started it at the point he talks about and shows enlarging the hole on an adel clamp.

Good to know they are direct bolt ins. That opens up possibilities I didn't know about. I'll talk to Mitch about how much he'd want for this part as it's really his.

I'd have to ask Mitch if he's interested in me letting go of it and for how much since we're mainly trading back and forth parts so I don't feel I can sell it outright. Do you still have your less than functional unit?

Years ago I bought random dash cluster from Wheatbelt with the intension of cutting the insides up to use for stuffing Autometer gauges into but I found out it was a cruise cluster when it arrived. No pictures right now but it's been sitting in my parts stash for probably 10yrs and I'm looking to get rid of it. It's in definitely used but fully intact shape. There is wear around the ignition switch area and minor scratches in the interior colored area. I'd call the color fawn just looking at the interior chart but pictures should show more exactly. No idea how much its worth but I'll start at $40.00 plus shipping.

No picture but my '64 had a single strap on the drivers side from the head to the firewall as well as the black wire from the battery terminal to the voltage regulator. Nothing I can remember on the passengers head. I think I got my replacement, and addon ground straps, from Napa.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=997/category_id=411/mode=prod/prd997.htm

Interior looks like it's going to be nye on undetectable from stock Bumper Bracket mods to dodge some of the underhood trickery Really interested what wheels he goes with to match the C5/6 suspension offsets and but continue the stock wrapper look. I'm hoping for or

Body is starting to come together it looks like. Wish I could work this fast but then again I get paid to do something else and then spend my money on the parts to do this to my own car.

Dave, One of the big attractions of the '63 is its lighted panel that I was hoping to place status lights behind custom labels. I'll PM you later about at least the switches as those would be great.

FINALLY got the passengers floor all rebuilt, primed, and welded in! Need to grind the welds down and apply seam sealer to finish that side out till I go back and build the seat mounts.

McMaster-Carr would also have bolts though they might not have them in a small packages.

If you're willing to go through the hassle, find a dark green you like in someone's plastic paint catalog and then paint everything that color. With black I think this would be easy but with dark green I'd want to try it out so it'd match the various vinyl parts like the door panel upholstery.

Rear bumper is back on

Hello, I got ahold of a near perfect '63 HVAC panel with level from Martin and I just can't bring myself to cut it up into a switch panel. Does anyone have one that's broken some levers or completely missing the rear section where the levers work? I'm just going to turn it into a switch control center for the normal stuff on a '64 in addition to the stuff I've added like heated seats, transmission shift profile, etc. Thanks y'all,

Are you talking about the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine, flexplate to torque converter, or where? Most bolts could be replaced with hardware store Grade 5 or Grade 8. I want to say the transmission to the engine is 7/16-14UNC but I'd have to measure length to quote how long they'd need to be.

More Pictures, interior is starting to come together. Redoing the stock shifter bracket to work with the new 4L80E transmission detents. Really interesting to see how that part plays out.

Three Cheers for Mitch, overall "Good Egg and Snappy Dresser" as the Brits put it. We've been bartering some parts back and forth and he hooked me up with a decent donor floor pan that will cover the complex bits of the floor and I'll take it apart for him so he can put it to use patching up his rusty back seat area on one of his. Getting excited to get to work on this stuff over the course of the next few weeks. Hopefully I'll have a solid floor and the seats mounted in the next 2 weeks!

Continuing to recover and unfortunately find more rust as I go poking around. There is rust up in the floor pan on the passengers side where the body mount load spreader box under laps the floor pan and seam between the main pan and the toe board. I have a patch panel but finally wore out my spot weld cutter on the larger welds so I’ll need a new one before I can free that section up. Of note I’m going to use Eastwood’s chassis rust encapsulation and frame interior coating to try and keep this from happening again or the existing lingering surface pitting from spreading. I also have Eastwood’s seam sealer and PRE prep spray. I’ve also been using SEM weld through primer but have to say that if you Aren’t lap welding something with spot welds, skip it as it makes getting a good penetrating bead hard to start and has really messed with my heat settings trying to get it to weld properly.

Mitch, left you a message.

If I really wanted to I'd put them in the mill and machine it off and paint them argent grey... however I feel like it would take a bit of the value off of them when I go to resell them after I'm done with this project. 240SX and the 300Z guys can bolt these straight on so there is some value there.

Well the hope the NISSAN wouldn't be seen was a bit off... But it fits and clears and has enough clearance to be sufficient. Plumbed and bled too. Mark that project as done!