CTX-SLPR

I'll admit I've not had horns installed at all for almost 15yrs so I'm building back up to having them. I have a new in 2006 horn relay on the fender but it's only been a used as a power distribution point all these years. A fusible link on the horn feed wire (relay to horns) sounds like a good idea, just cut and splice it in. I could also use the horn relay from the EFI donor, 98 Grand Prix, but the wire size is very different and I don't think it's all in the fact the relay for the GP is basically next to the horns vs. on the other side of the engine bay which makes me concerned about it even with upgraded wiring.

Howdy, So I had a 65 GS back in the early 2000's that tried to burn itself to the ground due to a faulty horn relay that stuck on and now I'm paranoid about relying on even a new replacement (rectangular can vs. the flat box type) doing the same. Am I justified in this fear based on y'all's experiences or should I just get a brand new relay and move on? Thanks

How much are you asking for a tilt column? Thanks

Howdy, Despite my best efforts, I've managed to break the wire that runs down the column from the horn in one of the many times I've pulled the steering column out of the car. Is there a source for a rebuild or do I need to track down a used upper bearing assembly with the wire as it's broken off there. Thanks

Good deal Mitch To add to the waterproofing thoughts I did look up how to waterproof cardboard and found this: https://www.hgtv.com/design/make-and-celebrate/handmade/how-to-make-a-weatherproof-cardboard-box-fort Looks reasonable The cost of making my own panels of Baltic birch plywood is comparable with the Clarks options though with more time involved. I'm considering it still though as they will be stiffer than the cardboard ones which would help keep me from adding more holes to the door plate (metal inner door structure) for more fasteners but I guess that's a minor consideration.

Wondering if anyone who's bought those has measured the thickness of them. Like Tom T. points out I want something waterproof and stronger so the fasteners stop pulling through since I'll have to hang yet more switch gear from the card for the Mercedes power seats and speaker housings. Sealing up plywood isn't too hard but a Formica or plastic (ABS, Acrylic, HDPE) panel would take less work to get there. I looked at fiberglass and carbon fiber but too spendy.

No one? Alternative more natively water resistant materials tend to come in either 3mm [0.118in] or 0.125in [3.18mm] which is ~0.050in thicker than Schmidy's material and I don't trust trying to measure my stuff as it's water warped and swollen. Any one have a more concrete number for the stock cardboard thickness?

Howdy, Does anyone know the thickness of the original door card (panel) on the 63-65 Riviera? Schmidy used 2mm (5/64in) plywood on his and while that is available, I’d rather use something closer to original thickness though I’m not using the original material. Thanks

The Jeep wheels have 48-54mm offsets, stock 1st gen wheels have about 0mm offset or slightly negative. You'd need a hefty space to make them work without hitting everything and I doubt they'd clear the centerbore on even the smaller '65's natively. The 63-78 Rivera (don't know about the 79-85's) has the outer wheel bearing out in the snout of the hub while the Jeeps have them mounted behind the mounting flange in a unitized bearing package so the centerbores are only 70.1mm vs. even the 71-76's 78.2mm [3.08in] in the common later 71+ 5x5in center bore that carried through till the end of the 5 lug 1/2-ton trucks, 63-64 are bigger and I think even the '65 isn't quite down to the later standard (can't remember).

It’s a molded piece of plastic that the lines pass through, no nipples. Getting at it is not fun as it’s behind the metal defroster duct.

Pictures as promised. Didn't have a chance to dig out the speedo.

Snapped a few pictures and will get them up tonight or tomorrow morning. I did notice that the bulge for the back of the speedometer is larger than I remember on the standard speedo cluster in addition to the cutout. It is an AC carrier.

I have the old speedminder speedo head from my '64 I could include but mainly I have the dash carrier panel with the cutout above the speedo for the switch. Bought it out of Wheatbelt a decade ago looking for another carrier to modify to put my Autometer gauges in and ended up just gutting my original. Will try to get a set of pictures today. Thanks

Sorry for not getting pictures up, my Suburban sprung a massive fuel leak last weekend and I've been fighting it as I had to disassemble a lot of things to get to the busted regulator and "while I'm in there" bit hard and has not stopped biting as the distributor body cracked...

I have a gauge cluster for a cruise car that I'm more than willing to sell if someone is trying to gather the parts for this. Edit: I should make it clear I have the carrier panel for a cruise car, not any of the gauge guts before it looks like I have the missing speedo head. I'll dig it out of the shed today and get a picture up. Thanks

Thanks Barney, The car's headed to Pflugerville till I can find a house in College Station. Big picture, that's around 3 months in CA where it's pretty much guaranteed to be dry as the rainy season is like Oct-Feb and I'm not rolling it out till early March and then in Pflugerville at my best friend's parents' house from late May/early June till probably early Aug, then it goes in the garage. The idea of the tarp over a frame to protect the car makes sense though as I've mentioned, the paint is just a cheap Maaco job that's there to keep the sun and water off of the sheetmetal, I'm going to repaint it in the coming years. I could basically just build a frame that goes over the glass house and tarp that section as the trunk does seal. Thanks for the idea.

I’ll have to check my ‘64 but reading the diagram I thought the point of the parking light relay on the passengers fender was to turn them off with the high beams only.

Thanks Jim Interesting that the '63 has the wiring harness mounted on top of the bracket with the P-clip vs. at least my '64 has it under the bracket.

Howdy folks, Does the vent tube for the drivers vent go over the brake pedal bracket or under it? It's been so long since I've had that tube in there I can't remember which direction it goes. Thanks

I guess I could use a storage unit but I’d need one here in CA while the house is on the market then in TX till we find a new house (after having the car shipped). Parking it in my paved side yard and then in my best friend’s driveway is certainly cheaper as at least I’ll get a cover out of it. I’m mainly concerned that the window seals do leak (need to redo the window alignment but not in the cards before I move) so I need keep the water out of all the interior work I’ve done. The paint’s just there to protect the metal so not concerned about it as I’m going to be repainting the car anyway after I finish up the body work (which is after resealing the engine, which is after the interior, which is after the wiring, which is after…..). I think the guy in Austin who advertised in the Riview was doing Covercraft units now that you mention it.

I've decided to go back to school for a PhD nearly 20yrs after my bachelors and will be moving back to TX. As part of the move my '64 will have to sit outside till I get a new house and garage to keep it in. There used to be a car cover advertiser in the Riview but I don't see it anymore. Anyone have a recommendation for something that I can keep the car covered up with outside for a few months? Thanks

I have a 4.1L Buick Turbo6 in my '64 though I've gone out of my way to avoid making the car hard to convert back to the original 425 Nailhead that I have sitting in a crate in the shed. I started this in 2006 though and then it was a cutting-edge motor, now not so much. It's one of a kind and with all the future plans I have, I'm trying to avoid permeant mods to get a car that drives more like a 90's grand touring coupe. I'd LS swap something else easy to change back (or far more common), not the Riv with the centersump pan unless you're going complete dry sump to avoid the cross member.

Parts listed are gone, will be rummaging more this week getting more room to work. Expect the wheel covers and the rest of the known parts to pop up with pictures and prices.

I'll be in touch Mitch.

Howdy folks, Starting to get a bit crowded in my shed to the point I can't work for the spare parts around the sides. This is the stuff that I had already pulled out to get a basic amount of space and more will come as I sort through what I have but don't have room to keep. 4x '64 steel wheels with 225/75R15 tires that were on the car when I bought it in 2005 they have to be way over age. $40 Passenger side floor pan and rocker sections $50. (I got what I needed out of them) Coming Soon (Both pictures and prices): 4x '64 Riviera wire wheel covers '65 Riviera HVAC head '64 Riviera front bumper core '64 Riviera AC condenser Free, pay shipping. Photos if you want them: '64 Front drum backing plates and spindles '67 Riviera drum brake backing plates with no other parts '64 Riviera radiator, no leaks but full of crud due to a failed water pump impeller filling it with Al and iron dust as the impeller ate the housing and was worn away Parts are located in Livermore, CA and I'll ship stuff if you pay the ride.