CTX-SLPR

There is a single screw through the grill that holds it down in the back so that and pulling it out up by the pedals should allow you to wiggle it out out of it’s channel. Breaker should be screwed to the metal structure between the vent and the door frame about halfway up.

Wished I was closer (and had a bit more room) I’d happily go for it but I’m back in CA…

Decent set of what look to be early wheels on Craigslist: Buick Rally Wheels - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale (craigslist.org)

Howdy Folks, I've always liked the smaller 86-88 Rivieras a bit more than the 89-93's, especially the 88's with the aero nose but as we all know they were not popular to begin with which makes even fewer of them left today. However I'm still interested in picking one up as a daily commuter for my relatively short commute when the weather is foul or I'm in a hurry and my son is getting to the age where he has the concentration and patience to start to learn how to work on a car with the idea we could get something he'll invest in now at least timewise before he'd take it over when he's 16. He's like Dad and the idea of driving a Riviera to school he thinks is pretty cool. What does it take to keep one of these cars on the road? James Brothers has kept his 87 running for 350k miles now with a pretty good maintenance history with his only major complaint being the touch screen being cumbersome but amazingly his is still working. It seems like if you got one that's been well maintained, it's not bad car especially if you want something that's simple enough to work on for an early teenager without going too far back to lose things like three point belts, crash structures, and since I live in CA; smog compliance (carbs are almost impossible to keep in compliance). Rock Auto still shows most of the parts available other than that dreaded screen. Thanks

Shove hard on the metal frame along the bottom edge vs. pushing on the leading edge of the seat. The engagement spike is has almost 0.5in [13mm] of engagement so you have to get it to move more than just a bit to get it out of it's pocket. You can get one side at a time out of engagement so work on one side and then the other.

I had passible luck with uShip the first time and horrible luck the second two times. Do not recommend, even paying more for one of the better reviewed shippers either.

I used Dependable Auto Shippers (DAS) twice after having no end of trouble with uShip shipper folks. They are not the cheapest but I no issues with them even when it started to have the brakes stick on they just noted it on the shipment log and still brought it on time. I've shipped it 5 times now between the military moves and when I got out having to put it in storage for 3mths. Nothing but trouble the first three times with uShip drivers and smooth sailing the final two with DAS.

The 43-180's seem to be discontinued or just out of stock. Looking through the questions on Amazon, someone mentioned them fitting a '63 Riviera, so confirmation there, and another mentioned them being 6mm wide. Seeing as the Tricos are not easy to get, is any 18in "narrow" refill (specifically the 6mm ones) be appropriate? Thanks

This is who I used for getting mine rebuilt: https://shop.rareparts.com/RP26781A-26781-CENTER-LINK-MUST-HAVE-CORE-TO-REMAN?partlocation=FRONT&veh=1964-BUICK-RIVIERA BUT you have to have a good one to rebuild... Probably have to pickup a used one from a state side vendor and have them ship it to Rare Parts.

Someone used to reproduce them. I have a set for adding them to my '64 and have had them since ~2008. No idea who I bought them from anymore though. That being said, they are pretty simple affairs so you should be able replicate them in metal. I think 3D printing would fail too easily as you're pulling the print layers apart which is where a print is weakest.

I switched from 225/75R15’s on the 6in wide steelies to 225/70R15’s on the road wheels as well as adding a 1/8in spacer (needed to clear the disc brake kit) and I don’t rub at full lock like the 225/75R15’s did. I’d not recommend the spacer if you don’t have to but like Ed said, all the taller tires did was polish the head of the carriage bolt on the frame at worst so if you’re not bothered by that, just get the tires that are a better deal and be done with it.

So the conclusion is the car got later hubs? Are the 45 and 90 fin drums cross compatible between the two generations of hubs?

Would explain why they moved more like Al vs. the rigid pot metal. A friend has a TIG so I might see if he can rebuild some of it for me and I'll just metal work them back into shape afterwards.

I plan on putting them mostly back to original except for going with gloss black between the ribs to start with to better match some other things on the white car. Are these things actually aluminum or are they pot metal? Right now I’m messing with the smaller ones that go on either side of the doors as they are small enough to handle and try the finishing process out on. I don’t feel as bad about riveting the bottoms of the long piece on the bottom side but not on the holes where the smaller panels have the screw heads. Thanks

Howdy, Has anyone rebuilt the missing metal from the wallowed/corroded fastener holes on the rocker moldings? Material is just too thin to build up with JB weld to try and fill in. JB weld did however work great on filling in the deeper nicks and bumps. I'm beginning to think my only resort is muggyweld. Note, I'm not going to rechrome these with metallic chrome, just going to try and refinish them with chrome paint and a clear coat. Don't need perfection, but want to make them as nice as I can. Thanks

Howdy folks, Working on restoring my somewhat battered but complete '65 rocker molding set. I have the disk kit but need to rebuild quite a few of the holes for the pieces that hold the upper segments on. I'm guessing by the more unmolested holes they are #8 sheet metal screws but wanted to check. Thanks

The front edge of the parcel shelf is held down by nubs on the center speaker housing and the outer edges are held down by tabs on the trim pieces that close out the gap between the seat backs and the door panels. Not hard to get in and out so I'd put it back together now, seats come out in about 5min with most of the work being fishing the unified seat sections out the doors with the front seats in. If you're looking for a halfway house to make it drivable, put the seats in but leave the close out panels and the trim that goes along where the parcel shelf meets the sail panels out, that way you only have to pull the seats out.

Keeping an eye on this!

I found my old set sitting in the back of a drawer. Sold the drums so can't test fit them anyore.

The Rotors are the same for a 80's "Squarebody" Heavy Half ton. The lighter trucks had a different setup. I got mine through Tirerack but Rock Auto also has a solid selection of rotors. Edit: Oops saw the main bit this thread is pretty old. Hopefully the tip on the rotors works out for someone who runs across this.

Holy Smokes is the shipping expensive! $196 for all for cards and nail strips. $120 in shipping to CA! I think I'm going to make my own cards! The nail strips are more reasonable at $122 for the set and $19 shipping.

I have a '64 to start with but yes, I'm using the 4x10in speaker outlet except I found that if you are very careful you can use 4x10in speakers designed for Toyotas and sandwich them together in the opening I'd already pulled them off of the dash but you can see the four bolt pattern that holds them on. I did have to file the mounting ears a bit to get them to actually bolt on. I'm running a Painless 7 Circutboss with four switched and three constants on the defroster duct that handle the main items inside the cabin (there's another in the trunk for the stereo and fuel pump) and a switched one like yours from CE on top of the floor vent housing for the power seats (swapped from a 98 CL600) since it can handle 30A vs. the Painless can only handle 20A max.

The page numbers are links to the page with the parts. www.corvair.com

Door Cards, they come raw pressed board and you pull your panels apart for the metal and trim (and maybe upholstry if you're going that far) parts. Pg 20 Per my cheat sheet printed shopping cart: 63-65 Riviera Door Cardboard (LF or RT) R188 Pg 20 63-65 Riviera 1/4 Panel Cardboard (LF or RT) R189 Pg 20 63-65 Nail Strip Set 2-Ft DRS & PASS R226 Pg 20 They also list assembled door panels on Pg 20 (R238) for a '64 with wood. Based on what Ray said that might not still be as complete.

Good to know. I might need to jump on that before I'm doing yet more custom work on the car, this time because parts I had planned on had dried up...