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tkeiser1's Achievements

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  1. Thanks, Jim. I'll check it out. That I don't have to worry about the angles is a relief.
  2. To be honest, I don't remember. The car had a lot of mechanical issues that I was working through. Now I'm down to "fine-tuning" and beginning to notice minor issues.
  3. I'm a tinkerer, not a mechanic, and I'm now feeling my ignorance. Any help on this will be greatly appreciated. In my 63 I experience light to modest vibration in the pedal when accelerating. Reading the shop manual, everything points to the joint angles. How in the world to I measure and adjust the angles? Based on the manual, it seems that I need special tools. A little background that probably impacts this question. . . I previously installed a new rear U joint, so perhaps I did something wrong or didn't pay attention to something I should have. Anyway, I remember that one of the snap rings did not fit well into the groove, although it fit well enough to hold. Thanks in advance for any direction.
  4. I've never dropped a gas tank before. What are the problems encountered? I'm concerned about weight as well as not having a lift.
  5. I can confirm what Tom said. I wrapped much of the line in rubber but the noise did not disappear. I dropped the gas tank somewhat and the noise lessened. However, I'm concerned about loosening the tank too much rather than dropping it and inserting spacers, which I'm not eager to tackle. Any suggestions? Is it safe to loosen the tank enough to eliminate the rattle?
  6. I'm probably showing my ignorance here, but I have a rather loud rapping sound in my 63 Riv that I can't locate. Here are the observations in bullet points. Loud, rather heavy rapping sound which speeds up and slows down with the engine revolutions Sound occurs when the car is in motion Sound continues when drifting in neutral, Sound is intermittent, but more prominent in winter than summer Sound slows and ceases when coming to a stop. Now, here's the kicker . . . the sound is coming from the right rear, above and behind the right rear tire. As stated above, the sound normally stops when the car is not in motion, however, today something different happened. I put the front end up on high ramps and the sound occurred while the car was up at an angle, even though it was stationary. This gave me the ability to more closely inspect where the noise was coming from. It was very prominent when listening through the trunk. To investigate further, I raised the right rear and took off the tire. The sound was coming from above and behind the wheel. However, the sound is more prominent when listening through the trunk. For the life of me, I can't figure out what would be causing a rapping sound in that area, rapping in sync with the engine, even when the car is stationary. Any ideas out there?? Tom
  7. Specialty tools, and breaking parts I can't replace are my biggest concern. Thanks for the input.
  8. My guess is the problem is with the speedometer itself. The odometer seems to be working find. The speedometer works fine as well, just reads faster than it should. (Tires are the right size.) Although I'm not a mechanic. I just like to figure things out and fix them myself. Gives me a sense of satisfaction not to mention a break from my academia responsibilities. Anyway, my question is . . . is this something I could do or is it beyond the scope of a do-it-yourselfer?
  9. I'm looking for help on calibrating the speedometer on my '63 Riviera. Is it even possible? I can't find anything in the service manual to indicate that it's adjustable. Tom
  10. Very helpful info, Nick. Thanks. Tom
  11. The vacuum actuators are working, but I don't know about the STV. That was going to be the last thing on the list after I got the connections right. Fill me in on the bypass switch. I'm not familiar with that.
  12. I need help to resolve a problem I've been working on the past two summers. I have a 63 Riv and I'm trying to get the A/C working. The expansion valve was clogged so I bought a new one. Unfortunately, according to Jim Cannon, all parts manuals have the same expansion valve listed for all big 63 buicks, but the Riv actually had a different one. The two main connections on the replacement valves are different sizes, although in the original they were the same. I had an AC company make me an adapter. But they said they can't help me with the following problem. The third connection, the equalizer line, has a male connection on the tube, whereas the original had a female. Does anybody have any suggestions for how to join these two lines? (see pics)
  13. Thanks everybody for the helpful comments. The most helpful to me was the tension issue. During the 60s I only had non-AC cars, and we always tightened the belts hard, usually with the jack handle. I was completely unaware of the problem with tension with AC. In fact, while replacing the fuel pump a couple of weeks ago, I tightened the belts with a bar. Based on what you all are saying, I did it to myself!! Thanks for all the help. You're never too old to learn.
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