SurfGreen64

Good point! Thanks Kevin for that explanation. I appreciate all your inputs. Thanks gang. I will keep you updated. Walt

I am happy to check the motor mounts, but I may need a teaching moment on how this relates to getting back pressure on the accelerator when accelerating?

Thanks guys for the ideas. Thanks Gungeey for the manual tech docs. Tom I also noticed that extra spring on the front rod that’s not factory, and yes there is the factory return spring in addition to the extra one. The interesting thing is that we can’t feel the resistance in the pedal when the car is in park and we are just pressing the accelerator and revving the engine. It only is noticed on the open road and slowly accelerating to the point the second carb engages. Anyway, I am going to disconnect the linkage, check its travel but also confirm that when disconnected that the resistance is gone. A good place to start. Hopefully, it’s just an adjustment to the linkage. Thanks again.

Hey gang, When accelerating my 1964 Riv with dual 4B, the accelerator pedal hits a "hard" spot just as I engage the secondary (front) carburetor. As I push my foot through this resistance on the accelerator, the front carb engages and the car lurches forward. This leaves me with no control of acceleration. When I first got the car, my mechanic found that the linkage was not connected to the front carburetor and so he connected it back up. (Wondering here if the previous owner also had issues with this hard spot on acceleration and disconnected it). Anyway, would love to get anyone's ideas on how I could fix this. (see attached pic of carburetors) Thank you! Walt

I recently had to remove the gas pedal in my 64' to replace the carpeting. Now, that the new carpet is in place, I reinstalled the two ball prongs with their base plate and pushed the base of the pedal back onto the prongs. Everything looks fine, but when I drive I now find that the pedal pops off the right ball prong if I don't center my foot on the gas pedal when pressing down on it. This happens mostly when switching from the brake pedal to the gas pedal and you tend to press on the left side of the gas pedal (which I believe most people do when quickly switching to acceleration from a stop). Is there a way to fix this? I know that the hard plastic the ball prongs go into on the pedal are a bit cracked. I would replace it, but not sure if anyone sells replacement gas pedals, and especially in the rare green interior color of my Riviera. Anyone else had/have this problem? Your thoughts are most appreciated! Thanks! Walt

Thanks guys! The console is out of the car as we are replacing the carpeting so I will most likely take to paint jobber and see what they can do. Thanks again for your thoughts. 🙂

Looking for a source for paint to touch-up a few scratches on my console. It has the green 610 Cloth interior. Thanks for your reply.

Thanks John for your response! I did see that I could reverse the front u-brackets and also noticed the small hole on the rear but did not notice it lines up perfectly with the hole in the floor. Thanks for confirming that it does. If you drill the hole to 7/16" I assume that will be big enough to use the original bolts? Thanks. Walt T.

I am a member of ROA and have a 64 Riv. I am wondering if the seats could be adjusted slightly back to give more leg room. I have the 4 way seat on drivers side. I have looked through the body manual but can't find anything. I looked through this forum and find others wishing they could do this, but no solution. Is there a way to do this without modifying the track or brackets? Thanks!

Hi Telriv, Yes, I did find that screw and removed it. The console does move a little bit but not up enough to get at anything. Should I remove the heater vents on each side? Will that allow greater movement up?

Hey gang, installing a new carpet in my 64 Riv and need to put the rear carpet under the console. I read that you don’t need to remove the entire console to do this, but just what do I need to “loosen” up to slide the carpet under it? Thanks!!

Great Ideas guys! It allows those locations to be more useful for our modern day. Thanks for responding!

I need to replace my corroded cigarette/cigar lighter for my 1964 Riviera for both the front and rear lighters. What is the correct replacement - A Rochester or Casco? I want to replace all the parts so I would also need the correct element too. Thank you!

Thanks very much KongaMan! This gives me a place to start. But one thing, is it OK that the rubber adapters used in the control heads can be bypassed and the vacuum lines plugged directly into them?

Hello fellow lovers of Rivieras, I am hoping someone may be able to point me in the right direction as I try to figure out why neither of the dual stage vacuum diaphragms on my 64 Riviera do much, if anything! Here are things to note: I know it seems simple that there may be a lack of vacuum, but I have tested the storage "ball" in the engine compartment and it is keeping a strong solid vacuum. I have then tested the control head connections for both the Heater and A/C and they seem to be getting vacuum although I did not record the PSI. But when testing them back at the diaphragms, there seems to be less vacuum (I should have records the PSI there also).☹️ Does the PSI split between the dual stages? The disc switches in the control heads seem to be moving correctly, not binding. The vacuum modulator (lower lever in the A/C head) seems to change the vacuum as it's moved from around 6 PSI at "Low" to no vacuum at full cold with fan on high, which seems to be correct for the suction throttle valve to work correctly. I tested the Heater/Evaporator door diaphragm by using the full force of the vacuum directly from the engine at the two inputs and it did open fully, but needed a little push from my hand. The Air Conditioning control head's rubber adapter was missing and so, someone connected the 4 hoses directly to the numbered "prongs" on the bottom of the control head. So I am wondering what could be causing this, but have some ideas: 1) The missing adapter for the A/C is the culprit as it's not directing the vacuum correctly? 1) The discs that direct the vacuum in the control heads are "shot" (I hope this is not true). 2) Both the dual stage diaphragms need to be replaced as they are too tight to be moved by the vacuum. 3) There is a some "major" leak in one of the vacuum lines that I can't see. Anyone have some direction to help me? I appreciate any thoughts. Thank you! Walt