EmTee

They both look happy!

Maybe remove the pin and try winding the spring an additional turn?

How old are the brake hoses? If you can't answer that question or the answer is greater than 10, change them.

Yes, there are several factors to consider when contemplating a long distance trip in an antique automobile. Having been faced with this question recently myself, the deciding factor was ultimately 'time'. As mentioned above, driving any prewar car on modern limited-access interstate highways is really not feasible. That means plotting an alternate route using predominantly 2-lane US, state and county highways. This can easily double the amount of time required for the trip. (The good news, however, is that there's much more to see and do along the way.) Consequence of extending the duration are additional meal and lodging expenses. Post-pandemic costs of virtually everything associated with such a trip have increased dramatically. All that said, my point is that the decision of whether to drive or trailer your antique car comes down to evaluation of a number of factors that will vary with each situation. In a perfect world, I'd drive my '38 Buick everywhere. The problem is, sometimes reality gets in the way...

Can you post a picture of what you are looking for?

Looks great! I really appreciate the skill and attention to detail required to replicate these convertible tops. It's particularly interesting to have two different top projects going on concurrently. Thanks to both you and Hubert for taking the time to document these projects on the forum.

In the meantime, I'd be tempted to try fixing the broken handle by carefully drilling longitudinally into the metal on each side of the break. Insert a pin with epoxy to bridge the break and also hold the plastic insert in place from behind. Hopefully you can find a replacement and free-up the regulator to prevent a recurrence. I'll bet the window regulator is full of old, hardened grease...

If it's like the distributor on my '38, there should be a small exit hole somewhere for grease to escape as an indication that the grease pocket is full.

That might make sense if the car was parked and unused for a period of years.

I like it, but at that price I would expect pictures of the interior, engine bay, trunk and undercarriage...

Exactly 10x what I paid for my spotless, Northern CA example in 1982. Drove it cross-country and my wife's description was "like putting your livingroom couch on cruise control"...

The bracket should be the same for all '67 big Buicks with the 430 engine. I don't know for a fact, but it's likely that compressor brackets from any '67 - '70 Buick with the 430 or 455 would work.

The idea is to free-up and lubricate the shank of the bolt that passes through the cover. Apparently some people have had bolts break at the shank which can make cover removal without damage difficult. If the bolt threads are sealed during reassembly there should be no coolant leakage through the small holes added for application of the penetrating oil.

Rolls Royce among others used the TH400 transmission in some of their vehicles, so I'll bet finding someone familiar with them in the UK won't be too difficult.

I hope it works for you! 🤞

Some of the proceeds will undoubtedly have to be invested in replacement shelving or a garage organizer...

Rock Auto has the correct, early style, filter: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=63961&cc=1319183&pt=8600&jsn=905&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqxeBNhI9mMX8H1x0fHFzmF%2BKG7YKD8h756k3BtrsE6fARMKaXNp7eQFiprUry%2F3aNaQKjQsmXoMDilrLCMYgOIsMiuO7dm4JKqdyjUkyeP2%2BAdcGeIGDWdnftPYJYV653NtxoWD9%2FpvYKV40vVqkQpxSKqZ82JQOKbzKH6Zn%2FwAeQami8TXf8DYzdr0YpvPqDXureLYkulemO4d4ET0QTVKgkd0zaSl1QLdjbrJgo2dz25WMFUH573sgAp9yfcFBn%2BiI%2FK2ZnXOe7tHl5%2Fvn3de I don't understand why reverse behaves differently than first gear ("Low"). Check the brake adjustment and condition to ensure that there isn't a wheel that drags in reverse. Verify that the parking brake releases fully.

(5) A 4-post lift makes the most sense when storing two cars in one bay is an objective. (6) I found that purchasing the accessory sliding axle jack mitigates most of the disadvantages of the 4-post vs. 2-post with regard to access. I can conveniently (and safely) raise one axle at a time with the car on the lift, which makes tire changes, brake jobs and suspension work much easier. I have really had no insurmountable undercar access issues with my 4-post Direct Lift.

There are offshore 'clones' available on Ebay for ~$40. I bought one for my wife's '93 Allante' since the GM one at Rock Auto (RA) was twice the price. Unfortunately, it didn't work. I wound-up buying the GM replacement from RA. The clone is still sitting on the shelf...

Yikes!

Maybe try reinforcing it with a layer of fiberglass cloth & resin on the back side?

Yes, however, I can see why...

I can't help but wonder how these tops were made in quantity originally. Were they done in an 'assembly line' fashion, with individuals making copies of a particular piece of the puzzle that were assembled and sewn into the final top by a team - or was each top made by a single person? Cost to produce these tops must have also been a factor that drove car companies toward all-steel closed car bodies...