EmTee

If the wheels are 'true' with regard to the axis of rotation, the alignment specifications should not be affected. The front/rear track alignment process may need to be adjusted if the front and rear wheel width and offset differ. I suspect that's not the case here, but since you did not choose the wheels, it would be a good idea to make sure all four are identical.

This kit contains the recommended degreaser and and metal-prep solutions. It's available at most auto parts stores and is good for small jobs.

Lots of cars used a shaded band across the top of the windshield through the 1960s and into the '70s. I assume this was to provide similar function without the external visor.

Hide the keys!

With the same profile?

If you believe that the glove box and trunk locks are original, and the glove box is unlocked, you can remove the latch/cylinder and take it to a locksmith to have a key cut. That key should also open the trunk. You should be able to remove the rear seat to gain access to the trunk. I don't know how large the opening behind the rear seat back is on your car, but if large enough, you may be able to reach through directly and unbolt the either the latch assembly or the catch to open the lid. I have used a couple of long 3/8" socket extensions on ratchet wrench to unbolt the latch while reaching into the trunk. Grandchildren can also be handy in this situation... Once the trunk is open, the lock cylinder can be removed and taken to a locksmith to have a key cut. If the keys for the glove box and trunk are different, I would have one or the other re-keyed to get back to a 2-key set, as originally built.

Nice looking GS! I always like seeing a 'naked' roof on these.

How old is the battery? If it was marginal before, sitting that long flat-dead probably finished it off. I would buy a new battery and a battery tender to keep it topped-off while in storage.

Pay particular attention to the ones on the passenger side of the carburetor.

Why stop with just multiple carburetors...?

Or, maybe fabricate a replacement from steel rod stock: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/steel-rods/low-carbon-steel-rods-and-discs-7/

https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-Leather-Conditioner-Cleaner-Kit/dp/B07LGVZLP9/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2DINRDZ09PLXA&keywords=lexol%2Bleather%2Bcleaner%2Band%2Bconditioner&qid=1698794959&sprefix=lexol%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Sticky valve(s)? I concur. Timing offset due to the Pertronix seems plausible and a test using breaker points would either confirm or refute the theory.

Next time take off your glasses first!

Based on its proximity to Pittsburgh, my guess is the original owner was in the steel business, or something related to that industry (e.g., coal?).

You can also remove the distributor cap and watch as the position of the rotor changes. Since the distributor turns at half the crankshaft speed, the rotor position essentially provides a vernier scale to provide a finer resolution readout of crankshaft position.

Hey - that '57 looks familiar...

I like the center cap -- perfect for someone with a Wildcat.

This ^^^ did work before on my father's '84 Corvette, so it's definitely worth a try.

Where were you able to obtain the correct #2503 seal?

Had the priveledge of driving on the lawn at Buick Gardens. Pebble's got nothin' on this place!

You have to post it on YouTube and then provide a link to the video here.

And a few more...