EmTee

I wired it open. @MCHinson tells me he believes he removed the flapper valve when he assembled the manifold, so maybe my modification isn't really necessary. I'll check the state of the valve the next time I have the header pipe off the manifold.

Well, I did say riding, not driving!

At least they don't actually have to pull the wheel to make that determination! How long did they search for the OBD2 port...?

Scroll all the way to the bottom of the emojis!

You should feel good about that; just as they obviously do. You have confirmed their decision to entrust the car to you. A happy ending all around!

Everything above the top wall plate is being supported by the trusses, so there is a safe limit to the weight of everything that can be stored in the loft. The truss specification should be adhered to. The shelving will allow items to be distributed throughout the area, which is good. Use common sense - no nailhead engines or cast-iron Dynaflows up there! Good for organizing the dozens of small pieces that can otherwise be misplaced during an extensive restoration.

I used some steel wire to lock the heat riser open on my '38. It does slow warmup a little, but I prefer to be certain that the valve opens completely.

@MCHinson recently repaired a broken horn ring. Hopefully he will chime-in, as I can't find his posting on this topic. I recall he found a heat gun worked better than a propane torch for melting the pot metal solder rod.

The best thing you can do is burn it as fast as you can and/or top-off the tank when NE gasoline is available.

Rare Parts will rebuild the one from your car, however, the price is twice that of the one you found new... https://www.rareparts.com/RP25737A-25737-CENTER-LINK-MUST-HAVE-CORE-TO-REMAN?quantity=1&custcol_rp_part_location=FRONT%20UPPER&custcol_rp_part_application=411069&custcol_rp_vehicle=1963-Buick-Electra

When can I move in?

Once everything is back in order and connected under the hood you need to show that sad looking air cleaner housing some love! That beautiful FE paint job sure makes the tired air cleaner stick out...

Brings back memories of riding through the neighbor's field in their Morris Minor lot car - exciting!

It sounds to me like you need to first raise the front of the car and find the point where the the steering box is centered in its travel. At this position, the steering wheel should be centered. If it isn't, then either the wheel is misaligned on the steering shaft, or the steering shaft is misaligned within the box (indicative of a bigger steering box issue). If the steering wheel and Pitman arm alignment is correct, then the task becomes adjusting the tie rods to be equal length and get the wheels pointed straight ahead as @195354 mentioned above.

Sounds like another bum condenser...

With eyes closed, the perception when riding in my '38 Century is practically indistinguishable from a 1960s or early '70s GM sedan.

Here's a picture of the radiator from my 1938 Buick Century:

That doesn't look like a 1938 Buick radiator. Looks like it may be earlier than that; not sure if it's Buick. Are there any part numbers or words (e.g., "Harrison") on the tank?

I think this one is a re-run...

...or the wire is disconnected.

Another thing to check is whether the steering wheel was removed and reinstalled in the wrong position. Start with an under car inspection of the steering components, as others above have suggested. Set the front wheels straight ahead and note the position of the Pitman arm and the steering wheel. The Pitman arm should be parallel to the driveline and the steering wheel should be centered (and right-side up).

If you run Evaporust, you should consider installing an ankle-high stocking in the upper hose at the tank nipple. That will catch all of the crap the Evaporust liberates before it can plug the radiator core. Depending upon how much junk there is in the block, you'll need to periodically remove it and rinse it out.

Use an IR thermometer to check temperatures across the radiator core. Blockage will appear as a cool spot. Temperature should drop gradually between inlet and outlet. Make sure there's a spring inside the lower (outlet) hose to prevent pump suction from collapsing it.