EmTee

Lovely looking Buick! It certainly looks at home in Ft. Lauderdale.

I agree, yours looks pristine. They are indeed rare on Rivieras; and Buicks of this era in general. I once found one on top of the gas tank in a '74 Nova. Sometimes also wedged into the rear seat springs. I think a couple of Riviera owners have found them behind the LF kick panel.

On a '67 Riviera? I suggest you post your questions on the Riviera forum. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/73-buick-riviera/ People will assume questions posted here are related to an A-Body GS. Anyway, I'm pretty sure you'll need to remove the dash pad and access them from above. (I'll have to look at my shop manual to confirm that...)

Any good quality 10W-30 or 10W-40 will work. I have been using 10W-40 Castrol GTX in my '67 since my father had accumulated a stockpile. The VR-1 would certainly be a good choice. If the car has higher mileage and given the location, 20W-50 will also be fine.

I would not inflate any tire beyond the maximum load inflation pressure shown on the sidewall. Watch tread wear; if the center starts wearing faster, reduce the pressure.

Where did you find yours?

Thanks for that summary! I think it makes sense that the rectangular head appeared with introduction of the column lock in 1969. Like I said, I definitely recall my father's '68 Chevy pickup had the octagon key, like our '66 Catalina. The '70 Catalina we had definitely had the rectangular key. I guess I should get the keys for my '67 Riviera remade using the correct blanks...

Where (generally) is the car located? A thorough detailing will definitely help the presentation. If the car will still be sitting after the battery is charged it may make more sense to just disconnect the battery. It can be reconnected to move or show the car.

I wonder whether coating thickness/build-up would also be a concern with powder coating, particularly at the joints. Then, there's the touch-up problem as well. Seems like paint is the right choice. The material price hike is ridiculous, however. Lately I find myself falling back into my 1980s habit of not delaying purchases any longer than necessary in an attempt to get ahead of increasing prices...

I think I like the split front bumpers.

Maybe the higher performing radials simply expose latent issues associated with deferred suspension maintenance.

The picture above isn't my car, but is one I found online just like it. The back glass on mine was actually replaced circa 1969. It was parked in the driveway in front of my grandparent's house and my grandmother went out to go somewhere and discovered the back window was broken. She found a connecting rod laying on the back seat. I still remember her showing it to me. Brings new meaning to "throwing a rod"! Fortunately they were able to get the glass replaced without any trouble. I'm guessing the process was very much like replacing a windshield. Here's an early picture of my car.

Yes, the tires on my GP are 205/75-14. They were on it when I bought it. I have had a couple of people specifically say to me that they liked the slightly wider whitewall on this car. Mine is also white, so the appearance on your Riviera is very much like my GP.

The rear glass on the 4 door hardtop is unique. It curves around the corner, similar to the windshield.

If it was already in the truck you'd probably have enrolled in a 12-step program by now...

I like them - I have a similar sized WW on my '64 GP and I think they look good!

It's that little triangular window between the door glass and 'C' pillar. It does look more cluttered than the 2-door sedan without it. That problem was addressed by the 4 door hardtop (like mine)... And finally, the 2 door sedan:

I think one issue is at least some of the modern 2-post lifts commonly used by shops can't reach the recommended lift points on X-frame cars like the 1st and 2nd generation Riviera. Either suggest they use a floor jack, or a 4-post lift with built-in sliding axle jack (which is what I have).

I also look for the 'Top Tier' fuel - especially for my wife's direct-injection Equinox. This is simply a 'Pay me now, or pay me later' choice. Poor performance and fouled injectors are the cost of 'cheap' gas. I'd rather pay an extra one or two dollars at each fill up...

I asked about the gaskets thinking you may have used these: http://catalog.remflex.com/category_s/97.htm

Or, get a test light and with the clip grounded probe the wire connected to the points. With the points open (put a folded piece of paper or thin cardboard between the contacts) and ignition ON the light should be lit.

I wonder which particular motor seams are 'stuck'...

Agree, I wasn't sure whether you were experiencing erroneous ABS activation before the loss of brake function. Just wanted to make sure you didn't have two separate problems.

I have no issue with it as long as the seller is up-front about it. It's no different than cloning a 440-6 Challenger R/T from a 318 car. Given that complete, brand-new, '57 Chevy bodies are available, it's possible to do a factory-correct conversion on Tri-5 Chevys by replacing the doors and quarters. The roof is the tricky part and it looks like this one was well done.

ABS activating when a wheel was not slipping can be caused by a bad wheel sensor. On this Buick, the sensor is integral to the wheel hub (bearing assembly). When the wheel bearing fails, the grease seal is damaged and metal filings mixed with grease from the worn bearing can foul the sensor tone wheel, causing erroneous ABS activation - particularly as the car slows just prior to coming to a stop. So, whatever you do to repair the brakes should include a check of the four wheel hub bearings.