EmTee

Keeping it clean and polished should ensure that you remain completely relaxed for years to come!

It's the crappy condensers being pushed these days that's more likely to drive your transition schedule...

It will certainly be more comfortable in there when the insulation is complete. It should be easy to keep warm enough for winter projects! Drywall on the ceiling will really brighten the space, as it did in the loft. What are you planning for the walls? Drywall un the upper 2/3rds would look good and be economical, but a wooden wainscotting on the lower portion would be more durable for a garage. It could be as basic as waferboard panels, or T&G pine boards for a more esthetic look. Everything you've done so far looks great!

What do you think the issue is with your current differential? Do you suspect bad bearings (is it growling)? A ratio difference alone will not cause any vibration.

I had the same complaint with the mirror on my Riviera (not remote adj.). So, I bought a new reproduction and moved the old one to the passenger side. Well, I'll be darned if the new mirror wasn't just as bad as the old one -- no, wait -- I did check it first... Turns out the distortion was caused by the curved door glass! So, I've grown used to it now. If things suddenly start looking good through the side mirror I'll know it's time to have my eyes checked...

I don't recall what it is called, but there's a procedure in the shop manual for adjusting this strut rod that stabilizes the transmission crossmember. This is on my '38 -- I don't know whether there's one on a '40 also.

Unless it has been heavily modified, the front end (grille & the one headlight) don't look like a '38 Buick...

I have a winch, but need to get a mounting plate. The trailer has a manual jack currently; it seems to be geared pretty low (lots of revolutions but low effort). I'll wait awhile before deciding to change the jack. My priorities now are: (1) get a tire 'wedge', (2) decide how and where to mount my spare wheels inside the trailer and (3) decide and purchase a coupler lock (e.g. Fort Knox?) and padlocks for the ramp door. I was initially concerned about backing the trailer into my driveway and considering a rear-view camera. I was pleasently surprised, however, as it's not much different (and maybe somewhat easier) than backing my single axle boat trailer. The first thing I noticed is it takes more steering input than I expected to initiate a turn. The slower response makes course correction easier, I think. The trailer has an extended tongue, that should make maneuvering easier.

Ethanol will attack rubber components in the fuel system that are not designed to accommodate it. Most commonly, the resulting damage is mechanical fuel pump failure caused by disintegration of the diaphragm. New pumps and rebuild kits should include Ethanol-tolerant components.

Workin' on it...

Are you looking to restore the original ride height, or are you looking for 2" higher than stock? If the former, you can go with either of the suggestions above. If you want a 2-inch 'lift', then you should probably call CSS, or search for appropriate spacers to use with stock springs.

They're 5200 lb Lippert torsion axles (~10,000 lb. gross). I asked the dealer to remove the fancy alloy wheels and instead give me six regular steel wheels so I have two mounted spares (an even swap pricewise). A friend of mine went to Hershey and picked me up a set of Snappin' Turtle tie-down straps. I still need to get one of those trailer tire changing wedges...

I bought @trimacar's 2001 8.1 Suburban last month and just picked up my new 8.5' x 24' Pace American Cargo Sport yesterday. The 35-mile drive home was smooth and uneventful. Now I have to start outfitting the rig in preparation for its maiden voyage the end of October.

After topping-off the R-134a (system was converted from R-12 by the PO) twice, only to have it gradually leak out through the high-side port after a month or so, I took it to my mechanic to have him remove the refrigerant and replace the valve on the port. The leak had persisted, despite my attempts to secure it with a cap. They evacuated the system, replaced the high-side port Schrader valve, checked for leaks, refilled the system and added dye (to support future troubleshooting). A/C now blowing cold again - hopefully for the last time...

Use some red Locktite on the studs to avoid having to weld them in place. Alternatively, use a chisel to deform the the first exposed thread on each side of the plate.

You can't see the whitewalls from behind the steering wheel anyway - spend the difference on gas!

Aw, what could possibly go wrong...?

Ebay?

My money says it's the former...

Looks great! Went from a taxi cab to a junior Wildcat!

I wired it open. @MCHinson tells me he believes he removed the flapper valve when he assembled the manifold, so maybe my modification isn't really necessary. I'll check the state of the valve the next time I have the header pipe off the manifold.

Well, I did say riding, not driving!

At least they don't actually have to pull the wheel to make that determination! How long did they search for the OBD2 port...?

Scroll all the way to the bottom of the emojis!

You should feel good about that; just as they obviously do. You have confirmed their decision to entrust the car to you. A happy ending all around!