EmTee

Someone with access to a late 1960's Hollander manual would be helpful here. If the rear end in question is a removable third member type, I'd suspect the center section from a full-size Buick would interchange, but something like different axle splines could throw you a curveball...

Looks nice, Neil. That really steps-up the appearance of the whole interior.

Looks good, but can you somehow remove and relocate that label so it isn't visible in the car?

And the stance is spot-on, IMHO.

I'd check the disk for flatness when it arrives. If I'm not mistaken, storing a clutch disk standing on edge for a long period of time could distort it. Asbestos aside, give it a careful inspection and consider having it relined if you have any doubts about the condition of the friction material.

You could go ahead and wire a pushbutton in parallel with the original vacuum switch, which I think you may prefer to do. That way, when the vacuum switch balks, you can simply use the pushbutton to get going and fiddle with the vacuum switch when you get home. Just run wires from the vacuum switch terminals back through the cowl to the momentary dashboard switch. Ensure the wires are protected with a grommet (or use an existing penetration) where they pass through the firewall.

Manifold to head, or headpipe to manifold?

No doubt, the repair paradigm is different for modern cars. Not only is labor more expensive, but as someone noted above, the packaging of components in modern cars also tends to favor replacement of assemblies, or groups of parts at once. Timing belt replacement is a good example. Many cars use the timing belt to drive the water pump, so replacement of the water pump whether leaking or not, makes sense whenever the timing belt is serviced. Otherwise, labor associated with pump replacement would be significant. My comment was specifically aimed at the replacement of the carburetor on the subject car with a generic 'bolt-on' piece that will not perform as well as a properly rebuilt original. The replacement carb typically involves modifications to surrounding equipment (e.g., linkages, choke, vacuum input, etc.) that can make returning the car to as-built condition more difficult.

It's clear to me that you can see the finished product in your head. Great work and this is certainly a big milestone in the process!

The Allante' is a 1993 model, so it's OBD-1, not OBD-2. Most OBD-1 cars require counting SES light flashes after grounding a pin in the data connector to determine the fault code(s). Fortunately, this car has the diagnostic reader built-in, and uses the display on the Driver Information Center (DIC) on the center stack to display fault codes and data. Pressing the OFF and the HOT (increasing temperature) buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds puts the system into diagnostic mode. Faults are displayed and pressing specific dashboard buttons allows selected tests to be performed, data inputs/outputs to be observed, or overrides to be initiated. It is really comprehensive and quite impressive. It also makes it clear that I would be lost without the factory service manual! Since your Riviera is post-1996, it has the OBD-2 system and an external diagnostic reader can be used to access fault codes and data. I have an Actron OBD-2 reader that I have had for at least 15 years. It works well and so far has been sufficient for me to diagnose issues with my more modern vehicles. The only thing it doesn't do is read brake/traction control (TCM) or body control module (BCM) faults. It supports powertrain control module (PCM) diagnosis only. My first recommendation for you is to get a copy of the factory shop manual. The one for the Allante' is the size of the Manhattan phone book and is packed with vital information necessary to diagnose, repair and maintain the car. I found mine on Ebay, in very good condition, for about $80.00 US. It has already paid for itself!

Maybe, however, just cleaning the hot wires in that MAF sensor may have been all that was needed. Bolting on a new catalytic converter could be a temporary victory when the new one melts because the condition that caused raw fuel to enter the catalyst wasn't resolved. I agree with @deac; understanding how the old, analog component works not only helps during repair, but also provides insight into how the modern, digital systems accomplish the same function.

Looks nice and seems like the asking price is realistic.

Ugh, yet another Edelbrock carb conversion. Seems all people can do these days is swap parts...

I've never seen a radiator sight glass like that before. Was it there when you got the truck? Sounds like you're making good progress on your final assembly checklist!

Hmmmm, judging from his animal art, Will seems to be quite a character!

Get an adapter like this to reach fittings on your U-joints (if equipped): https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-06134-Straight-Extension-Adapter/dp/B00KMUXXD4?th=1

Looks terrific! Was the artist concerned at all about any ill-effects from rolling and unrolling the shades?

I had the opposite situation on the last two vehicles I bought. Just the other day I noticed a trail of oil dots in the street in front of my driveway. Investigation led me to the oil filter on my Suburban which I could turn with two fingers! I gave it 3/4 of a turn to stop the leak. The same thing happened earlier this year with my wife's Allante'. Both of these filters were installed by shops chosen by the previous owners...

Gorgeous!

...and don't forget the SPAM!

Ha - that was 'Plan A', however, weather up here in late October/early November can include snow or freezing rain (which means salted roads). Not wanting to risk that, together with the fact that I don't want to drive the '38 on Interstate highways, the alternate US/State highway route would take more time. The decision was ultimately driven by my desire to participate in future touring events further from home and my wife's desire to bring her Allante' to FL this winter. Don't worry - the Century gets plenty of exercise! JohnD and I will also be doing some sightseeing in the area.

Depending upon where you are located (East or West) you could also look at ordering from CARS (https://oldbuickparts.com/).

They may be the same schematically, but routing (hence wire lengths) could be different...

Yes, that's what I was thinking too. There was a topic on the forum somewhere where someone else did that and apparently worked fine.

Did you check all of the U-joints while the driveshaft was out? I found the yoke joint with brinelling on my Riviera was the cause of vibration at 50 ~ 60 mph. Definitely check the drive shaft angles; particularly the rear shaft. How is the suspension ride height? Are the rear springs saggy? Also check the condition of the transmission mount.