EmTee

Or, get a test light and with the clip grounded probe the wire connected to the points. With the points open (put a folded piece of paper or thin cardboard between the contacts) and ignition ON the light should be lit.

I wonder which particular motor seams are 'stuck'...

Agree, I wasn't sure whether you were experiencing erroneous ABS activation before the loss of brake function. Just wanted to make sure you didn't have two separate problems.

I have no issue with it as long as the seller is up-front about it. It's no different than cloning a 440-6 Challenger R/T from a 318 car. Given that complete, brand-new, '57 Chevy bodies are available, it's possible to do a factory-correct conversion on Tri-5 Chevys by replacing the doors and quarters. The roof is the tricky part and it looks like this one was well done.

ABS activating when a wheel was not slipping can be caused by a bad wheel sensor. On this Buick, the sensor is integral to the wheel hub (bearing assembly). When the wheel bearing fails, the grease seal is damaged and metal filings mixed with grease from the worn bearing can foul the sensor tone wheel, causing erroneous ABS activation - particularly as the car slows just prior to coming to a stop. So, whatever you do to repair the brakes should include a check of the four wheel hub bearings.

Cadillac Carl is smiling.

The main issue with ethanol (assuming all of the rubber has been replaced with tolerant parts) is its affinity for water. This isn't usually a problem for daily drivers that get refueled regularly. Storing a classic over winter (or other long-term storage) can lead to problems if precautions aren't taken. This typically means adding a fuel stabilizer (e.g., Sta-Bil) at the specified concentration and running the engine long enough to ensure the mixture fills the carburetor float bowl. The other recommendation is to fill the tank to minimize the air space that leads to condensation. For long-term storage (more than 6 months) it's best to drain the fuel and run the carburetor dry.

Also check that the breaker plate in the distributor is grounded.

Puzzles are definitely more challenging when a few pieces are missing!

I can hear the sound of my pump change once the float bowl is full, then i turn it off.

Screw temporary cleats to the top of those truss webs about 3/4" ~ 1" from the ceiling. Then slide the piece of drywall in from the side. The cleats will hold it while you screw it down.

Yes, it would.

Brian, do you have the rubber boot for your starter solenoid? Bob's has them.

Could the transmission have been swapped?

Description? Any interior photos? Currently registered and driven? Any known issues?

WD-40

How many miles on the engine? Hopefully it's just a worn pump.

I've done similar by just spraying the tread and bead area with a household spray cleaner. Leaks will show bubbles. I found a leaking tire pressure sensor/stem on my daughter's car that way.

Maybe control arm bushings?

Are the ones at the other end also copper?

I typically use 32 psi in the front and 30 psi in the rear for my '67 Riviera with radial tires. My rationale is that most of the weight is on the front wheels. If carrying lots of luggage or rear seat passengers, then 32 psi on all four tires.

Is that R+M/2?

For securing the horn ring? Hopefully someone has a picture from their car, or the shop manual...

Neil is on the right track. My tongue-in-cheek naming contest was really a backhanded attempt to get Matt to consider changing the name of this particular discussion thread. I understand, however, that "The Car Which Shall Not Be Named" has pretty much become this car's trademark...

I hate when that happens - particularly AFTER telling them where to jack. I made a jack block out of a scrap piece of 2x4 wood for my daughter's PT Cruiser years ago. I cut a slot into the block for the pinch weld to fit into, then I could safely use my floor jack on the block without bending anything.