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  1. Hey guys, thanks for your help, I think I solved the issue. I connected a cable from the pertronix directly to the ignition switch at the same connector were the resistance wire for the ignition coil is connected. Now the ignitor gets the full electricty directly from the battery when ignition is on and the ignition coil gets the needed 9 Volts from the resistance wire and all seems fine. No issues at full throttle anymore and the car feels more sporty, gas acceptance is more accurate and it feels like it has more power. I needed a while for this because at the same time I replaced my window motor in the front door, and that´s a lot of work when you´ve never done that before. If the issues at full throttle reappear I will continue with your suggestions.
  2. Hi Thanks for your information, I connected the pertronix to the yellow wire on the kick down switch, but this isn´t the optimal solution, because during cranking the voltage of the switch drops to 1 Volt, so the car doesn´t start during cranking. It starts in the moment when I turn the key back. Kind of funny behaviour. But as soon as the car is running everything works fine. So i have to look for a different 12 Volt source, which doesn´t drop to 1 Volt during cranking. Do you have any other ideas?
  3. Hi, thanks for your help, the carburetors seem to work fine. The fuel filter is fine too and I think I have an idea what it could be. I have a pertronix 1181 ignitor installed in my ignition distributor. Somebody has installed it before me. The ignitor is directly connected to the coil and gets 6 volt. The manual says that the ignitor requires a 12 volt source away from any voltage reduced circuit. I will change the wiring like it should be and connect it to 12 volt source or change the ignition coil to one which has 12 Volt. Do you have any experiences with the pertronix 1181 and if, how did you install the system in your car? Which 12 Volt source would you recommend for this application? In the manual it even says that misfiring or breaking down under load is nearly always associated with low voltage at the unit, which prevents the unit from operating correctly. I hope this will fix the problem, if not I will continue with your suggestions.
  4. Hi guys, recently I had some issues regarding the engine. When I drive normal everything is fine and the car runs without any issues. Sometimes I give like 70% to full throttle and then it can happen that the engine doesn´t react to this. It makes strange noises and doesn´t accelerate. I have to release the throttle, then the engine reacts normal again. The problem isn´t steady, so sometimes the car reacts like it should and sometimes like discribed. Do you have any ideas, where to start troubleshooting? The car has the stock 64 Super Wildcat with the dual carburetor.
  5. When I first realised that something was wrong with my heater system it was 35 Degrees outside and my water valve got stuck in the open position. The temperature door was adjusted on Temp Max and I didn´t know how to manually adjust it in the engine compartment during this time (Heater Temp Control Lever was on off, but without any influence on the temperature door and water valve due to the torn wire) Even without the blower on, hot air got into the car turning the inside of the car into a sauna. Though the windows were open the 160 mile drive home felt like walking trough death valley.
  6. Ok Konga Man, Thanks I´ll try that. I´d rather prefer as original as possible, but when the mechanical doesn´t work I will try the vacuum sollution.
  7. Hi guys, thanks for your help. I checked the valve and the lever don´t move the inside of the valve which closes and opens the water stream. It is completely stucked. I think I will order the mechanical Valve of the 61-62 Chevy Impala: For the wire I will get the Control wires from Old Air products. Thanks.
  8. Hi guys, I have two issues with my heater System in my 64 without AC: 1. The Heater Temperature Control Wire, which connects the Heater Temp Control Lever with the Temperature Door Lever and the Manual Gate Water Valve Control Wire, is torn. The torn part is not very far away from the Lever where the wire is usually connected with the Heater Temp Control Lever (one or two inches). Is it possible with the help of the adjuster nuts to make the wire longer for 3 or 4 Inches so that the wire can be connected to the lever? Or do I have to exchange the wire? 2. I tested the Manual Gate Water Valve and I´m not sure if it is broken or not. When the Lever on the top is closed water flows trough the Lever, if it is open the water runs trough as well. It seems to be less when the Lever is closed. Is it normal that water runs trough the Valve if it is closed or shall there be no water running trough in closed Position? I´ve read that the manual gate water valve get stuck after a few years and I think, when this happened the wire got torn. Then they exchanged the manual gate water valve without repairing the wire.
  9. Hi RivNut, I checked the code and it is a matching numbers car, but with the kw-code for the standard engine option. So there are two opportunities: 1. Somebody installed two carburetors (Super Wildcat option) later or 2. I´ve read that some dealers installed the kx-option when the car was in the showroom, if the customer wanted to but I don´t know how to figure that out. Anyway it´s a wonderful car, which drives perfectly.
  10. Hi guys, here are some pics from my 1964 Riviera.
  11. Thanks for your help I will check the code as soon as possible
  12. Hi guys, i just bought a 64 Riviera that is equipped with the super Wildcat Option (Carter AFB Dual 4-bbl.). I want to check if the car was built with the optional KX engine or if somebody installed it later. I couldn´t find the KW (standard) or KX (optional) engine code on the engine. Can somebody tell me where to look for this code?
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