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EmTee

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Everything posted by EmTee

  1. Does the carburetor have a solenoid throttle-stop? If so, you can check that it functions and is adjusted properly. If not, you're probably correct about combustion chamber carbon build-up. Good news is the fix for that - drive it!
  2. The license plate lamp looks great! I will have to try that trick with Hydrogen Peroxide and UV light.
  3. I've heard people use a raw egg -- never tried it myself. The active ingredient in the GM and Bar's leak tablets I posted above is Ginger Root!
  4. Actually, I had this: It didn't leak to the point of puddling on the floor, but the crankcase was always wet...
  5. At least those can just be filled with fluids and driven, since they leaked like a sieve when new!
  6. It was a really nice car that I wouldn't mind owning today. Bought from a coworker when I lived in Sunnyvale, CA. He bought the car when it was ~2 years old. He and his wife had no kids and the back seat looked brand new. Silver with a perfect black vinyl top. The paint on the hood and deck lid was burned-off to the primer in spots, but the paint on both sides was perfect. 100K miles and it ran like a Swiss watch. After I changed the idler bearing in the compressor clutch it was dead silent at idle. The PO had installed a Frantz oil filter (the kind that used a roll of toilet paper as the filter media). That was fun! I drove it cross country and my wife's comment was that it was like putting your livingroom on cruise control! Traded it on a new '83 Mazda B2000. The Mazda slowly dissolved, but I'll bet the Lincoln lives on somewhere... Oh, and back on-topic, these are recommended by GM and work (even with antifreeze): ...and the identical product from the source:
  7. It will either need to remain a museum piece, or require lots of recommissioning work...
  8. What I can make out of the picture on his profile looks like a '55 Buick...
  9. It sounds like there is spark - but when does it occur relative to crankshaft position...?
  10. That new distributor housing is a work of art! That said, you might wish now that you had ugly distributor that works... If it were my car, I would remove the Pertronix and get the engine running with the OE breaker points first. Once the engine is running and tuned with the conventional ignition, I'd then introduce the Pertronix change. Break the problem into smaller pieces and focus on the basics first (crawl, walk, run).
  11. The 320 in my '38 Century holds 8 quarts to the FULL mark. The ADD line is at 5 quarts, so there's a 3-quart 'operating range'. All I'm suggesting is try running the oil level closer to the ADD mark to reduce the amount of windage. It could be that much of that oil is being thrown at the vent. Even if the oil isn't being directly thrown at the vent, oil fog whipped-up by the crank will still get pushed out the vent if blow-by is excessive. Anyway, try running a lower oil level and see if it helps...
  12. You got me! I read the title quickly and thought that the LASD had swapped this into some of their Crown Vics...
  13. Measure and compare the voltage drop across the starter when cold and hot.
  14. 6-point ONLY! Try not to use a jack handle or cheap 4-way wrench if you can avoid it. Most of those are too sloppy (i.e., big) and can damage the nut.
  15. How full is the crankcase? Try running just a quart above the 'add' line.
  16. I'll do my part to keep this thread active! I have this glovebox emblem for a 1966 Riviera GS that I'll never use. Free to a good home; PM me if interested. Sorry -- this item has found a new home!
  17. If it is as good mechanically as it looks, I think it would be a good buy at ~$10K. I've seen some sell in the $8K range, but this one looks nicer than those did...
  18. I thought "nice looking Cadillac", but nothing special... ...then -- BAM! The interior condition really helps sell the combination for me. Personally, I'd really like to see this interior with a silver body. I am a sucker for silver/red and Red/silver luxury cars. Maybe explains why I appreciate Bill Mitchell designs...
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