telriv

Bob, NOT BRAKE FLUID BUT BRAKLEEN.

!st. & foremost, IS THIS THE NUMBERS MATCHING BLOCK FOR YOUR CAR???? IF not you could replace it with something more suitable for rebuilding. Next is SONIC TESTING. Core shift was pretty bad in the later engines from about '62 till the end. Most recommend for the weight of the reciprocating assembly a wall thickness of a minimum of .150". New MANY DID NOT come this thickness from the factory when new so sonic testing is A MUST!!!! Tom T

OIB63, Sorry I haven't answered sooner as I've been away since the 19th. What is EXACTLY wrong & why you think the vibration is from the REAR??? Tom T.

Yeah, me too.

WE ARE HOPING SO!!!!

Vent hose OR gas cap

Yes Art, but you must remember most ALL the other vehicles used cast iron. For the benefits of aluminum, which are much lighter, & dissipate heat much better than cast, they bend out of shape quite easily. IF you try removing the drum support the hub & DO NOT put any kind of pressure on the aluminum drum. Tom T.

That's only one part of the lens. There's another piece that goes behind the lens if I remember correctly. Tom T.

Originally from the factory these vacuum switches had a very light coating of grease inside of them, which also promoted sealing. After 30-40-50 years they dy up & pieces come off & end up blocking some of the vacuum holes. I usually use the Kendall Super Blue grease. It holds it's consistency & is not so thick it will block things up. Tom T.

YES, I've done a number of them. For someone with experience to take apart & rebuild the thing including the CV Joints is about 8 hours give or take. IF you've NEVER done it before & have no experience you will get VERY frustrated. These are a time consuming job that is very EASY to mess up. EVEN professional drive shaft shops get them wrong/screw them up. It's VERY IMPORTANT to get the phasing correct. Basically it's pressing out the old & installing the new, BUT the CV Joints can drive you crazy. IF you end up taking a stab at it a few pointers. Make sure you use the H/Duty joints with NO grease fittings. A couple joints are special & is one of the areas the pros mess up on. The CV Joints are another problem area . These problems are NOT insurmountable, BUT you need to be aware of certain things & can end up with MORE problems than you started with. Drive shafts pros are almost ALWAYS telling those not in the know their shafts are "Out Of Phase". For their information they are most times unknowingly WRONG!!!! They are out of phase for a reason!!!! That's the way Buick designed them. Tom T.

Believe me it's a quality piece. I was in on the design & fab. Tom T.

Go to V8Buick.com Look up JD race. Monaz is his screen name. I gave him ALL the info I had & he CAN & DOES do them. What's wrong with your rear?? Tom T.

Just make sure the spacers have the indent in them to clear the rivets or else you'll warp the drums again. Tom T.

Just buy a rebuilt starter it will come with a new solenoid.

I've known a couple with sleeves & they raced them for years. Can't get any more abuse than that IF DONE PROPERLY!!!!

GOOD QUESTION????

Bernie, If it ONLY broke out the one cylinder wall it was repairable with a sleeve. I've know some that have replaced ALL 8 with sleeves with NO PROBLEMS years later especially if it was a matching numbers block for a GS.

Sure it's kinda crusty, BUT in all honesty to me eye it's not that BAD. IF you had the talent & the time for those it would be a fairly straight forward fab job. For those who can't or won't & have to send it out you'll be backwards before you know it. Then there's the "while I'm at it" takes over & your now your farther backwards. IF it was a real GS then it MAY be worth it. I'll put my 2 cents in & say 15K or so depending on the amount of options.

DEFINITELY needs a NEW timing case cover WITHOUT A DOUBT!!!!

In my book the Edelbrock B262 is by far is the best of ALL the Dual Quad manifolds although the Ellco is a very close 2nd which is a copy of the Edelbrock. Although the Ellco flows well it has peaks & valley's during the RPM curve that is NOT there with the Edlebrock. The Edelbrook has been proven on both dyno tests & flow bench testing. These BOTH have more ability with porting work to specific HP & flow numbers with the Edlbrock coming out ahead. The plus for the Ellco is that it's somewhat available as the Edelbrock is NOT as easy to find & it goes for MORE $$$$ than the Ellco& in my mind is the better of the two for the most HP & performance. The other thing to be mentioned is that both of them spread out the carbs. so now the stock air cleaner intake WILL NOT work. So you either have to destroy it or use some other kind of air breather. In terms of performance it goes as follows: 1st. = Edelbrock. Ported or not. Advantage much lighter weight. 2nd. = Ellco Is very close of the Edelbrock. Ported or not. Advantage, muck lighter weight. 3rd.= Stock Buick 2x4 intake. Ported can come close to the other two. Last=Awfulhowser, although it CAN be fixed, BUT still doesn't compare to the 1st. two or the stock intake. SO, IF you want to retain the stock look & have everything work as designed from Buick, the way to go is stock with some GOOD FLOW BENCH porting work. Tom T.

To me that car looks to nice to turn it into a Resto Mod. You may be disappointed after ALL the work & $$$ that it will cost to achieve the results your looking for. You CAN get them to ride & handle VERY WELL WITHOUT ALL THE MODS. You can ALSO get them to give reasonable fuel mileage also. I also have replacement rebuilt steering boxes that are a BOLT-IN & 2 1/2 turns lock-lock. Everyone to there own. Your car, your dream. Good luck with whatever way you go AND you can give some of us something else to ogle over. Tom T.

Look down between the lower A/C & Alt. belts on the right side of the engine. Viewing from standing in the front of the car it will be on the left side.

'64/425 is 2 1/2* BTDC with the vacuum hose dis-connected & plugged on the carb. end. IF you have A/C the timing tag is built into the timing case cover & is very difficult to see so that MAY be the reason you can't find it. I know it's there as the timing marks are built into the cover. IF your dist. has been reworked then the 2 1/2 * may not hold water.

Jack, NO, the spring does NOT have to be removed. Just support the lower control arm from the area of the lower ball joint with a jack of some sort. You MAY want to remove the grease fitting on the lower ball joint so you don't accidentally break it off. Tom T.

DV8, That is a pipe thread fitting which is what the original brake switch was. Onto your leaking problem. That fitting is pipe thread like mentioned. IF it's leaking remove it & apply plumbers tape & tighten. The way a pipe thread works is that the threads get larger as you tighten the fitting. So IF you tightened the fitting more the leak should stop. IF NOT use the plumbers tape. Tom T.