telriv

AND, from the pics it also needs a cam

Make sure the calipers are not dragging. The brakes generate a lot of heat & is transferred from the wheels. Are the wheels hot also???

AND, now we have another question. The engine comes back as a '62 which had a DynaFlow whereas '64 was a TH400. Rear sizing of the crank pilot hole was diff. A 400 flexplate could be ground out to make it fit the larger DynaFlow crank, BUT was the adapter added to support the smaller diameter of the 400 converter hub??? With the hub of the converter not supported it will eventually do damage to engine bearings & front trans. pump.

What I've noticed on Michelin tires is that they do VERY GOOD when new. As they get older they seem to harden & become slippery when wet.

Cars were driven millions of miles with bias tires, drum brakes, single piston masters & NO LED bulbs back in the day. Back in the day the big talk was how many flats did you get on the trip. NOT MPG, how much oil was used, etc. We now have something to compare all this stuff to that wasn't available back in the day. How many times did (know better now) we or I drive 100+MPH on bias plies. Now that radials have been out they ride & handle so much diff. than bias ply I wouldn't even attempt it today. It was done because we didn't know any better & there were little or no alternatives.

Now that's a testament on the reliability I've been telling everyone about for years!!!!

In reality the way we drive our old cars today that heat directly under the carb. is no longer needed nor is the heat riser valve so the use of a stainless plate is NOT nec. if you block the holes in the manifold under the carb. DON'T BLOCK the exhaust holes in the head (4) as the manifold needs to be heated to be able to "Flash" the cat pee we have today they call gasoline. IF you block the holes in the head the car will almost ALWAYS hesitate.

Hearse, NOT WITH OIL but something like WD40, PBlaster or some other equivalent penetrating lube.

I installed disc brakes on the front of my Riv, in the 80's. Came from an Estate wagon. Far as I was concerned it was a bolt-on. Then again I've been a mechanic ALL my life so these things come kinda easy.

The water pump in most cases doesn't need to be removed. IF you want to remove to just check for the corrosion (which you SHOULD do) start soaking the 1/4" bolts with 7/16ths. heads now with some kind of penetrate. Do this now & keep doing it until the time comes to do the chain & gears. Take a ball peen hammer & kinda hard tap the heads of the bolts. What this does is vibrate the bolts which tends to loosen them & let the penetrate wick it's way into the threads. In reality you should do it to ALL the cover bolts that go into water. IF the cover is too corroded (best to send pics) I have new ones. IF you need a more modern seal I have those in stock also. I can ALSO get new thermo housings or a Mopar one can be used by slightly elongating the bolt holes & those replacement Mopar ones are cast iron. IF there is much plastic teeth missing off the plastic cam gear it would be advisable to remove the oil pan & clean the plastic out of the oil pick-up screen. If you put an oil pressure gauge on it the pressure will usually be fine. The BIG concern is NOT pressure BUT VOLUME!!! This tends to starve the engine of the nec. lubricate it needs for oiling & for COOLING. Of course at the same time you can clean out any junk that has accumulated over the years. How many miles are on the car/engine???? It's not hard to drop the pan in a Riv. I can run you through it IF it becomes nec. REMEMBER the bolt needs to be tightened to at least 225-250 ft. pds. of torque!!!!! as mentioned. I also use RED Locktite on the threads. You DON"T want the balancer falling off. Causes much damage. IF your lucky only belts & maybe a pulley or two. OR depending could wind up costing a radiator, fan shroud, more pulleys, a new fan blade & maybe clutch, & a HOLE in the hood from the fan blade. This is just to make you more aware of things that you need to take precaution on. Tom T.

3.23 was standard in '63 with a DynaFlow with other ratios optional. '64 & '65 standard was 3.07 IF memory serves me, was 3.07 with other ratios optional all the way up to 4.45 for a trailer towing package which was later revised to 3.90.

It's ALL based on experience!!!!

The bracket at the top of the cable looks correct. The BOTTOM DOES NOT. I assume the lower bracket would have to be swapped & then secured somehow. Maybe by soldering after getting the bracket to be in the correct position & length.

Just as an aside. M/B REFUSES to use the new stuff in their products. To much of a chance for lawsuits, etc. Bob, I thought I explained it to you ALL the filters for the low & high sides are a universal fit the reason they ask for piping sizes. There is NOTHING made specifically for an early car. I don't even see them listed by make & model for even the new cars.

Thanks, GOT IT!!!! Tom T.

I can reply to this subject with some (???) authority. The way the old AFB's handle the air input for the secondary's is that as air demand allows the weighted flap opens. They NEVER open all the way. On a friends car that ran at the time 11's in the 1320. When we had the car on a chassis dyno I noticed the rear flaps weren't open all the way. I got two long screwdrivers while his foot was still in it & when I opened them ALL THE WAY the engine faltered for a split second. It didn't pick up any RPM's nor was there a boost in HP. It stayed the same. This is with an Edelbrock B262 that was ported & heads that were ported both done professionally. On a stock 2x4 set-up the engine is TRYING to glop as much air as possible which cuts down on the velocity of the flowing fuel/air mixture which, in the case of the "NailHeads", kills performance. They rely on this velocity/swirl to get the needed air/fuel into the cylinders.The "Nail" relies on that velocity to get the mixture flowing. When the velocity gets reduced engine performance suffers. In the higher RPM ranges then the 2x4 starts pulling but the 1320 is already over & must won't do more than 5000-5400 RPM's stock anyway. So to put it in perspective the 2x4 set-up is mostly "Eye Candy". As of this moment I haven't yet been outpaced with my 1x4 set-up comparing apples to apples against a 2x4. As far as a trans. change goes most go to a TH400 because a TH350 won't fit behind a "Nail" without an adapter. The TH400 weighs more. Weight is HP. The TH400 uses 40HP between the flywheel & tail-shaft. The TH300 about half of that. Then you have the traction problems associated with a 2.48-1 1st. gear ratio. ALL things being equal an average of only 1 tenth of a second and sometimes even less is achieved & sometimes with less MPH. As for the TH300 behind a "Nail" is it has the switch pitch feature which Pontiac did not have. Way back my friend had a '64 GTO auto. He was pretty disappointed with the cars performance especially from a dead stop. We swapped his "Guts" for the ones from a Buick TH300 & the car immediately WOKE UP!!! He couldn't believe the switch pitch made such a HUGE difference. It's almost like having a 4spd. with a switch pitch. I have a friend who drives his '65 Skylark GS with the TH Buick 300 & with a 3.23 rear gear has run a best of 12.23ET. Now the engine is not totally stock either but with the 2spd. they can ALSO run. Tom T.

I have an NOS '63 ONLY valve in stock. NOT CHEAP> Tom T.

Basically looking for the "Eye Candy" & the associated costs that go with it. It's always good to know yr, make (Buick we assume) & model. As you just answered in the last post we now know it's a '62. Model??? As you also stated NEVER made for a '62. Not that it can't be done, just what are you looking to spend??? At $2500.00 it's WAY overpriced. What's the casting number on the manifold. '64 is diff. than '65-'66. Be careful driving it too hard with that kind of mileage. 1st. & foremost between 100K-155K pistons have a problem of self-destructing in little pieces & normally ends up with a wrist pin through a cylinder wall. 2nd. is timing chain although no where near as bad results. And IF you are thinking of raising compression with off the shelf pistons you're dreamin'. You'll be lucky to get 8-1 or less. I supply MANY parts for "Nails" including custom made forged pistons. Tom T.

Neither of those two work. What else can I try??? Remember we are dealing with a computer illiterate ole geezer user.

How does one view private messages now that the forum has changed??? Tom T.

A LOT DIFFERENT!!!!!

The OD of both tubes is 1/4" .250" Use a drill bit slightly smaller than a 1/4" DON'T drill down more than 1/2"-5/8" or you run the chance of drilling into the tube in the manifold. Then just twist the remains out. I have used copper tubing in the past with good results & easy to bend/form. Go to the corvette restorers for the insulation on the heat tube. I forgot which one has the correct insulation. I'm sure someone on here knows. Tom T.

JUST READ THE DIRECTIONS!!!!

Forgot to mention. ALL THE SPARK PLUGS SHOULD BE REMOVED!!!!

Number one it's idling MUCH TOO FAST to really tell ANYTHING!!!!! Next, onto the compression test. Dis-connect & ground the coil wire. Next, have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor to allow all the oxygen available to flow into the cylinders. DON'T let up on the pedal UNTIL ALL 8 CYLINDERS ARE DONE. OR, put the pedal to the floor & insert a screwdriver into the secondary side of the carb. to hold the secondary's open. DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE SCREWDRIVER WHEN DONE!!!!! Record the readings. The lowest reading cylinder should be within 20% of the highest reading cylinder. IF the engine is in good, healthy condition should be around 170-190lbs. YOUR NEXT BEST FRIEND, besides the chassis manual, IS A VACUUM GAUGE. A relatively in-expensive tool NO TOOL BOX SHOULD BE WITHOUT ONE!!! Do yourself a favor & learn HOW TO USE IT!!!!