telriv

1st. you could use the plug in the left rear of the left head. Then you would still retain the light. 2nd. you could plumb into where the oil pressure sender switch is located on the R/R of the block just above the oil filter AND still retain the light. 3rd. it depends on if your using an amp gauge or a voltage gauge. Amp gauges aren't the norm any longer. Used to be because they were at the time the only type available. AND, because of the required H/Duty wiring needed that gave the possibility of shorting out & MANY other problems. A voltage gauge is the preferred way to do this today & MUCH easier to install. Are the temp. & oil gauges electrical or mechanical??? Electric may be easier, but as far as I'm concerned is a waste of time as your relying on electricity which isn't always consistent. AND, depends on too many other variable factors beyond your control. In that case you might as well just rely on the lights you already have & just eliminate the hassle. Of course I prefer mechanical gauges. Can you tell??? JUST MY opinion. Tom T.

Gary, Can you send pictures of that on both ends??? AND, where it hooks up to the carb??? WE gotta figure out something here. Tom T.

Bill, Now what are you starting up a NEW division of the grammar POLICE??? Now we have to worry bout the heater hose police??? What's next???? Tom T.

Gary, Me again. That piece of chain coming out of the diaphragm DOES come out. I don't remember how it comes apart. Let me look in a chassis manual. It looks like in the book that that piece of chain is REMOVABLE. Maybe IF you have a chassis manual you can figure it out OR someone who has already performed this operation can post. Tom M??? Tom T.

Gary, So the chain hooks up to the diaphragm & the other end is what attaches to the Carb. linkage correct??? ALL you need to do is get one of those connectors that attaches to pens so they can't be stolen & put both pieces back together again. That should do it. IF it doesn't last you know how to fix it now. Tom T.

Another thing that has happened. The green wires at the horns, IF you have power, they could be dirty or corroded. Remove the wire & clean the spade on the horn & ALSO clean the green wire connector. Apply silicone DI-electric grease on the horn spade & the green wire. Tom T.

Gary, Let's see the COMPLETE chain OR the other end. Kinda wrap it in a circle. Tom T.

I meant to say 5/8ths & 3/4qtrs. NOT 3/8ths. Should do better editing myself!!!!

BrianB, What they are talking about is the 600 series of boxes that are for the smaller A-Body GM cars. Which requires adapters, hoses & rag joints. Like is said in there advertising they CAN rebuild YOUR box at extra cost, which is more than I sell mine for. AS you've read, mine are an "808" unit that's EXACTLY like what you have now, a bolt-in swap. NO adapters, hoses OR anything special needed. I have the boxes IN STOCK. Tom T.

Clark's Corvair Parts in Mass. I was involved with the tray sending them a prototype tray I received. I even went as far as cutting out the complete metal from a pretty rotted out '64 Riv. to help them along the way. AFTER a few attempts they got it right. This was at least 15-18 yrs, ago. It ONLY comes complete, meaning the vinyl also. Talk to Mark or Anna. Tom T.

Zimm63, Go to an auto parts store & see if they carry a 5/8ths. & 3/8ths. heater hoses with the wire inside. You can bend them in ANY direction & they won't kink when going around tight bends & WON'T collapse. I used them on my '64 & have been on my car for at LEAST 35+ yrs. I don't know if they are available any longer. Tom T.

After saying all that it appears it was WELL taken care of. Hopefully the previous owner has done the proper service so you don't need to do any major servicing in the future. GOOD LUCK!!! Tom T.

Also forgot to add you should have group #27 battery which is 12" long IF it's a top post battery.

Try a tray from NAPA or other parts stores. They are universal, but easier than trying to fix what you have. Just adapt as nec.

I think it looks more like the picture of the Turbinater's whitewall with a little more black area closer to the wheel rim like Bernie's picture. Try Cooper's. Tom T.

Brian, I'll assume your talking about the trim piece above the trunk lid & below the rear window. If that's the one your talking about look under the trunk & below the rear window on the inside. You will see some quick nuts/pal nuts just remove them. You will see some sealer. DON"T FORGET to install new sealer called "dom dom"" OR "strip caulk" available at just about ANY auto parts/body shop supply store. Tom T.

Mice, Glad I could help & send you in the right direction BEFORE you started to drive yourself CRAZY!!!! Tom T.

AGAIN, NO GASKETS on the manifold. It was designed from Buick that way. Don't forget to use silicone around the water ports, but NOT on the intake ports. And also in the corners where the head & block meat up on the four corners. Did you replace the head gasket with another shim steel Gasket??? IF you used a composite gasket on only one side the actual compression ratio will be about .6-1 less compression on the one side.

Looking for a trans, mount for a '63 Riv. with a dynaflow trans. I read SOMEWHERE that a jeep mount was used. ANYONE have an idea??? Besides trying to find a new original mount. TYIA Tom T.

Look at Restoration Specialty's. Goggle it. Mostly that's all they do. As Bernie said it's a mounding clip. IF you can't find them new I may have some that are used. Tom T.

Gary, Send it to me I'll fix IT!!!. Tom T.

Ed, It says right it's for a TH400 NOT a DynaFlow. They have it wrong as fitting '63-'66. We ALL know that '63 was the last yr. for the DynaFlow & '64 was the 1st yr. of the TH400. So that does me no good. ANYBODY have an answer??? Tom T.

Gary, The aluminum front drums can be warped OR the pull back & hold down springs have gone bad because of being over heated OR the drums warped because of wheel weights hitting the fins when tightening the wheels or the inside register is too small for the hubs of the drum. You don't notice this at 1st.& gets worse with time. The way you call tell IF it's front or rear is to drive the car at 25-35 MPH & step on the emergency brake. IF it doesn't shake now the rear drums are OK & the vibration is coming from the front drums. IF it still shakes the rear springs could be bad also. In the past a few times I was able to get the aluminum front drums much better by bolting on a steel wheel & tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern. Torque them down to 50ft. pds. 1st, then 75 pds, then 100pds. Remove ALL the lug nuts & turn the wheel to put them on 2 studs to the left or right. Do this 2-3 more times & it may help & IF it does now the drum won't have as much "meat" to turn to get them straighter. This will ONLY cost your time as NO $$$$ are involved. IF it lessens the vibration you can have the drums turned. MAX diameter is 12.090" NOT 12.060" as some will tell you. After the car is warmed up stalling has NOTHING to do with the choke settings. I rebuild AFB carbs. Also do distributor rebuilding, re-curve the advance rate & install electronic ignition. The speedo can have a broken cable OR the driven gear has gone bad OR when the trans. was taken apart they didn't put the driving gear on the outlet shaft OR the speedo itself is bad/broken. Tom T.

Ed, Do you remember what it was originally for??? Or even better yet a part #??? Tom T.

Yeah Ed, I should have put in the original post this is for a '63 DynaFlow. It's rough getting older & having to put up with the old age C'S/Seaesses. Tom T.