telriv

ALL those repro relays are junk. I've gone through this many times.. IF you take the cover off the new relay you will see a broken wire for the coil. Take a strand of copper wire & solder it into place. Repaired. Next???

That link does nothing

IF you are still experiencing problems I rebuild the AFB's & have been doing it for years. You can ask on this forum the ones who have used my services. I do quite a few of the dual quads from all over the world. When I'm done rebuilding I install them on a '64 Riv. 425 & drive it to make sure ALL is correct BEFORE returning it to the owner. Tom T.

Did you remove the step-up pistons, springs & metering rods by loosening the little screws on the oddly shaped pieces on the top air horn you removed???? IF you did not & just assembled it you may have bent the metering rods as they are kinda difficult to get back together without removing them Tom T.

Best way, as not all will know EXACTLY what your talking about, would be to take a pic of this qtr. panel & put a circle around what your looking for.

CORRECT

Balancing will not hurt.. But you need to be aware the drive shaft is out of phase for a reason.. If you look at the splines where the shaft was separated you will see one spline in the yoke is missing & a corresponding spline has a pin in it. Make sure you make them absolutely point this out when taking it in for a balance job or else you will have a problem with vibration. I don't know in fact how many shafts I've had to do because some EXPERT drive line shop sold the wrong u-joints, yokes & CV joints that were not needed & VERY seldom did I have a problem unless some expert messed with it previously. Tom T.

DON'T let them tell you its out of phase. They are supposed to be 67 1/2* out of phase from the factory. When you replace u-joints use the solid H/Duty ones. They are MUCH stronger. That's one of the reasons they were used from the factory. Tom T.

Maybe I missed it, but I don't see where Rich mentioned that the car had been sitting for a long period of time. IF in fact that's the case then my recommendation would be to mix up some trans. fluid & some kind of rust penetrate & let it sit for a day or two. Will have to add quite a bit to cover the pistons entirely. Definitely use blankets when cranking by the starter. I would turn it over by hand 1st. through a couple revolutions BEFORE the starter. When REMOVING PLUGS loosen them up 1st. & if you can use compressed air to blow away ANY debris/dirt from falling into the cylinders. DON'T want to make matters worse. Tom T. P.S. IF the vehicle hasn't been started for a long time it would be best to remove the distributor & use a drill to crank over the oil pump to prime the engine to get oil where it needs to be & NOT start the engine dry. Maybe drain the oil 1st. & put on a new filter while your at it. Check the oil level beforehand. When you drain it see how much comes out. IF the dipstick read full & ONLY two quarts came out then the oil in the pan has gelled & the pan at that point would need to come off & ALL the junk cleaned out. Doing ALL of this is just to make sure that you don't do any further damage that may not have been done already. GOOD LUCK.

AND, I know the way to properly mount it so it doesn't hang below the rear diff.

IF it doesn't have at least 1 gauge OR better yet 0 gauge battery cables will make the starter crank slow. You should also check voltage drop while cranking. IF you are using repair clamps they could ALSO be drawing an excessive amount or resistance causing the cables to get hot.

Everyone who puts radial tires on their vehicles doesn't get the FULL BENEFIT of radial tires unless they also upgrade the alignment specs. This alone can make a HUGE diff. in the way the vehicle rides & handles. Tom T.

It might come out nice, but I think it will be an abortion. ALL the pristine rust free non rotted sheet metal they'll be throwing away . It's too bad some could use some. Take a running driving car & put in an LS3????? WHY?????

Yes, but it also has the "ears" for the mounting of the A/C compressor.

Must be blind Tom. I don't see it mentioned anywhere???

Another thing MOST don't know. It appears that the water pump pulley & the crank pulley are of the NON A/C type pulleys looking at the pics. Non A/C pulleys spin at .9 engine speed whereas A/C pulleys spin at 1.1 engine speed. With the 20" clutch fan & the A/C pulleys it would make the coolant flow faster than non A/C set-ups. Supposed to cool better. Tom T.

ALSO looks like the bracket for the A/C condenser is also there. WE NEED A PIC OF THE FISHER BODY TAG!!!!!!

ANY questions on the '63 A/C system the Turbinator could probably answer them ALL!!!!!!

Kreed, It appears as if the rear bumper is pushed way in at the top. Also look at the l/r quarter where the bumper lines up with the body. VERY close to the car body & looks like the bumper was pushed in which chipped the paint.

Ed, Of ALL the NON A/C cars I've seen, including mine from new, they ALL have the L-shaped rubber seals between the radiator support & the radiator. AND on the L-shaped brackets that hold the bottom of the shroud in place they have rubber insulators that hold the shroud fairly tightly to keep it from rattling & moving around. Tom T.

I use the 1 wire conversion kits for electronic ignition. Been selling them for 12 yrs. now NO PROBLEMS. The only one who knows it's been converted is you & I. I ALSO rebuild & re-curve distributors along with faster ratio steering boxes, mini starters, forged pistons & a whole host of other products. MY MOTTO "if I can't get it you don't need it". Tom T.

Mine has been reading between an 1/8th. & 1/4, depending on load in the trunk, when it runs out of fuel. Been this way since new.

May I ask what the total cost for the Lares box cost with shipping, core charges, etc???

Probably be faster & better to send off to Booster Dewey for a rebuild.

Check the oil for fuel. Best to change the pump & NOT TAKE A CHANCE & also the oil even if it doesn't smell like gas. Gasoline doesn't lubricate no where's as good as oil.