telriv

Someone has already figured this out as it's been posted before, but I can't find it doing a search.

For all intent purposes EVERYTHING remains EXACTLY the same as what you have now EXCEPT it takes much less input to turn the wheels further & you can drive with your knee while opening a beverage if you so like & it WILL stay in line going down the highway.. Tell them Bob. Tom T.

I have the choice of 5 parts cars 1st. gen Riviera's to remove them from to pick the best ones if you are interested. Tom T.

IF you send that balancer to be rebuilt I think it will be rejected

Any 401/425 balancers that you look at will have different balancing pins put in different places on the outer ring. Some may even have drill marks in the OD or ID of the balancer. All the balancers have different balancing required depending on how the fine balance turned out at the engine plant. Even flexplates have holes drilled in them for the final fine balance of the engine assembly.

Ed, That's NOT a repair sleeve for the crank but for the harmonic balancer IF the sealing surface has a groove in it from the seal. I ALSO have those parts needed, even a good used balncer. Tampa Riv. Need a picture from the front of the balancer looking at a straight shot at the keyway groove. 1st. clean off ALL the grease in side & out. Then take a pic of the nose of the crank at 90* intervals especially the keyway slot. Tom T.

Most ALL engines have some kind of harmonic balancer to help reduce harmonics. IF the balancer was loose you may ALSO have a front crank snout that's been worn lope sided & will ALSO need another good used crank. I could go on for days typing with one finger about damage done from harmonic balancer bolts lose & the incorrect washers installed. Tom T.

Yeah Jon I know what your talking about, but 80+ hours a week. Tom T.

Andres, IF it was the original AFB carb. the stamping is on the lower right corner under the mounting screw/nut on the flat. Standing in front of the car it would be on the lower left corner. Understand what I'm talking about. If it's the original it will say 3665S. Tom T. P.S. Have you received the parts I sent??? IF you have what did you think of them??? Tom T.

My lights still work, but I also mounted gauges. AND during cranking the RED temp light comes on to let you know the bulb is working/good.

Just so you know '63 & '64 are different.

I bought my '64 Riv. new & the way they are shown are the way they were installed from the factory. I used a 27F as mentioned because I thought/felt it looked cleaner in appearance & I DO have a cover on the positive post being next to the fender. I know that if I got bopped in the nose it may just short out. Tom T.

That one has the wrong throttle arm & NO wheel for the kick-down. ALSO the base is kinda corroded & will need to be milled,, but should be OK otherwise. Tom T.

The valve is 80mm like stock. The stub shaft is 13/16ths. like stock. The pitman arm is 1 1/4" like stock. The feel is like stock or I can make it a "Sport" feel. My boxes use the STOCK rag joint. My boxes are the "808" box that originally came on the big cars & is A BOLT-IN. NO special hoses, fittings, adapters or ANYTHING else required. AND, at a much reduced cost than others available. Tom T. P.S. I do have a couple of the Riv. 15-1 boxes used.

ED ALL POSI'S THAT I KNOW ABOUT HAVE THE 3/4" SQUARE dating back to 1960 at least, maybe further back. Now when the 9 3/8ths. went to having a rear cover is when the tag was placed on the cover. Tom T.

Ed, That is a 3/4" square you use a 3/4" open end wrench on, NOT a 3/8ths. drive racket or extension which has a 3/8ths. square end.

Ed, Since I rebuild A LOT of these AFB's I need to run something through ALL the passages to make sure they are clear of ANY debris. One thing for certain is the idle air bleeds for a 425 are slightly larger than a 401. Same goes with some passages in the ventures front & rear. As well as jets & metering rods. Tom T.

WE CAN FIX THAT!!!!!!

They are available from NAPA

In my understanding there were two that left the factory in the early part of production that came with leather. I owned one, very early build, 07D, was in the '64 pattern not '63 as if someone had changed them. Had MANY '63 parts on it that made it strange. Long since scrapped as it was rusted beyond recognition.

The biggest problem I've seen is the pressure valve & spring are incorrectly installed.

WOW!!!!!!!!! lots of RED

Kev, Where did you happen to buy that new pump brass inlet valve & how much did it cost???

Let us know how it works out.

The way I sent float levels is with a drill bit the correct size. Better than using the paper gauge supplied in kits. Also the float level needs to be at the correct spot on the float. I think it's about 3/8ths. of an inch from the toe. The AFB's are very hard to get to flood over from float settings if everything else is correct. Most likely caused by some debris under the needle & seat.