Jump to content

telriv

Members
  • Posts

    3,072
  • Joined

Everything posted by telriv

  1. IF you had a chassis manual you would not have had to even ask the question. THEY ARE INVALUABLE!!!!!
  2. AHHH!!!! Forgot about that. A diff. gear selector & also?? a console for a stock looking appearance.
  3. Yes, it's a bolt-in swap. The only mechanical problem is the flywheel/flexplate which may not have the smaller diameter holes which you MAY & have to measure correctly & re-drill holes plus the added electrical/kickdown/switch-pitch switches & the micro switch on the gas pedal linkage. Tom T.
  4. Talk about a waste of time & dollars. Throwing time & dollars into something rather than diagnosing is a TOTAL waste of ones time & resources. Get a book, start reading, start to understand how & why systems work, then start with diagnosing the problem. There MAY be more than one problem which can sometimes throw a snag in things, but you need to start SOMEWHERE. Tom T.
  5. AGAIN/AGAIN/AGAIN/AGAIN Never an end. Have you learned anything yet??? Looking for a box large enough to ship those parts. Tom T.
  6. The rubber isolators Ed pictured MAY reduce noise, but are not the best. You have to install a through bolt. The better ones have a stud molded to each side which are completely isolated from ANY metal with NO through connections. They can be found at foreign car distributors of parts. Most commonly used on MGB's & others for fuel pumps. Add the isolated straps & there should be NO NOISES or VIBRATIONS.
  7. Glad it worked out for you Bob. Tom T.
  8. You CAN ALSO use Brakleen to start & run.
  9. A VERY POPULAR COLOR NOT LISTED "SILVER".
  10. Ed, You should post that info here so that ALL can see (with a pic) & MAYBE be easier to locate doing a search. Tom T.
  11. Whats the serial number,VIN, of the engine. On the opposite side of the MT. It will tell you the model of the car that it was originally installed into. From that you can THEN determine the original color. Tom T.
  12. I know when I got my Riv. built 12D, 4th. week Dec. '63 my Riv. had belts installed in the front only. There are mountings points in the rear also if you wanted to add belts.
  13. Another source is Ando Auto. I could, like I said, also source these for you Andres & include them in the box. Do a search for Ando Auto to see what may interest you. Tom T.
  14. To protect ALL the wiring in the old cars I add a fusible link to the wires coming off the junction block/horn relay. Protected right at the source including the cigar lighters. I even do this on 6 vlt. cars. Better to be safe than sorry is my motto. If you cut back the harness you can conceal the fusible links in the harness & NO ONE can really tell the protection is there. Right off the ignition switch is a black ground wire. When the red wire melts back far enough it also melts the black wire & you have a DIRECT short to ground!!!!
  15. As long as the throttle is closed in the idle position the engine doesn't need to be running. Just key on engine off. REMEMBER, DON'T leave the ignition on without running for any length of time.
  16. How much closer can you get than at the junction block/horn relay??? At that point your only talking about three feet or so of 10Ga. wire.
  17. Andres, Remember what we talked about. Would you TRUST old worn belts to protect your children in the back Seat??? Also what about your own safety???
  18. IF using higher wattage power headlights 30 amps WON'T do it. Even the Hella 35 amp relays after a while melt. The NAPA AR200 relays may be overkill, but you WON'T have to replace them ANYTIME SOON. I don't know what the cost is as a single unit, but figure the cost of two & where to find one if needed again. The NAPA ones in the long run MAY be less costly. Tom T.
  19. Yes, choke fully open & at hot idle for PROPER adjustment.
  20. Hows the mini starter & A/C working for you Ben??? Tom T.
  21. The reason I use 60amp continuous duty relays.
  22. Zimm63, I used 2. One for lows & one for highs. The wiring for the lights goes right past the battery at this spot so no need to add extra wire at the relays for the headlights. ONLY extra wire needed is power for the relays (from the junction block/horn relay) & this one 10ga. wire you could install some fusible link wire for protection & wrap it up in the stock harness for a complete, unmolested stock appearance. Since the headlight switch has a thermal breaker inside the assembly no need again for any extra fuses OR.
  23. 1" of movement is NOT normal. Yes, there is a small amount, but not 1". Something had to be disturbed or loosened during the glass replacement procedure. Probably when they shocked the glass to break it. Use silicone spray for the binding for the time being. It will help the glass from binding & after a while when the rubber sets will be OK.
  24. I KNOW Ed meant to say headlight switch & NOT the ignition switch. On the 1st. gens I use a NAPA AR200 relay which is a 60 amp continuous duty relay. I mount them behind the battery on the L/F fender well. Can't be seen. & the wire run is short enough to use the original wiring. Tom T.
×
×
  • Create New...