telriv

AND, really the 4-71 is TOO SMALL for a 401/425. 8-71 It's kinda questionable on a 364. 6-71 Mostly for a 322/264. ON a 322 IT WILL NOT lose low end at all if it has ANY BOOST. As far as I'm concerned, now this is just my opinion, 2x4, blowers, 6x2, 8x2, 3x2 are all just eye candy. Everyone has a diff. idea about what looks COOL. Now on a racer all bets are off as they do have there place if the combination is built properly. I could talk about this stuff for days on end. Tom T.

I have a brand new one, never mounted, but NOT interested in selling at this point in time. The carbs. are mounted further apart so the original air cleaner can't be used. I know someone who destroyed an original chrome dual snorkel air cleaner trying to get it ti fit. I have seen them go for as much as $1800.00 with the box. RIDICULOUS!!!!!

The Edelbrock 2x4 flows the best of ALL the manifolds bar none. Where the 2x4 shows up better is AFTER the 1/4 mile, but before that the single 4 keeps the velocity up so it ends up making the poorer flowing heads breathe a little better.

Lets not forget 1964 is set-up slightly diff. than 1963. '64 Riv. I hope your looking at a 64 chassis manual.

Oh yes, now that you mention it I now do remember. Tough getting old. Tom T.

Most of them are like that especially if they have a tilt column. The opening allows engine heat up the column & when driving long distances the column can get SO HOT you can't touch the column or the metal part of the steering wheel. I make a bushing for that. Problem is the column has to come out & come apart to install/replace it. Now would be a good time to upgrade your steering box to one of my more modern boxes with 2.5 turns lock-lock. Tom T.

Why do you feel it needs to be replaced??? Bent??? Has a wobble??? The pulley itself is only sheet metal & can be bent back in shape very easily.

I should have a good one. I would say $35.00 + shipping.

I make my own kick panels & sail panels not out of some kind of cardboard but I use the thin Formica used for countertops. It has some flexing capabilities & once covered with carpet or headliner material you would never know. Best part is that if they do get wet for some odd reason you don't have to worry about them deteriorating.

I was going to ask the same question as Ed. Is the carb. aluminum??? OR other???

The proper replacement is a size 27. If you don't want to cross the cables to keep them from making possible contact with the fender use a 27F which will put the + cable next to the radiator.

Sorry for mis-information. He's looking for a dual quad primary (rear) carb.

He's looking for an original secondary dual quad carb.

Not really as the cost of a REAL GS has gone up significantly.

CARS green is too DARK in my humble opinion.

THANKFULLY it's in the members only section & doesn't give ALL the nec. info needed to build a "Clone". There are MANY clues to identifying a real GS. You MUST be able to perform vehicle diagnostics to uncover the FULL scope of identification. Again, thankfully you CAN'T get the info from any website I know of. Once "ones in the know" pass hopefully others have been able to pick it up or it will be LOST forever. Tom T.

There are other ways to identify IF you have a REAL GS or not. I can't post here as then EVERYONE will know & clones could be MANUFACTURED. Tom T.

Bill Hirsch is the BEST. Order it today & I'm sure you'll have it by Monday. The color is CORRECT & with spray or foam brush lays down BEAUTIFUL. With a foam brush leaves NO brush marks & unlike spray cans you don't have to worry about over spray getting on everything where your painting, unless of course if your doing it outside. MOST other suppliers use Ford Green which is too light & is one of the ones CARS carries. They DON'T sell Hirsch products to my knowledge. I was not at ALL satisfied with POR & OPGI I also believe is Ford green. Tom T.

NORMAL

Kreed, The 1st. thing I WOULD DO is to go to your local GM dealer & get two bottles of their POSI additive. Then put it in & do MANY figure 8's in a large parking lot to see if that helps clear up the CHATTERING/BANGING. You need to get the additive mixed with the gear oil & between the clutch plates. I know that Jason did this & wasn't satisfied with the outcome which is why he REMOVED his springs. Just my suggestion. Tom T.

MANY problems with wiper motors are the grounding at the switch. Tom T.

I have them in stock Scott. Send me a PM. Tom T.

Has NO affect on our cars of the 60's-70's. EVERYTHING works exactly the same as designed.

Not if mounted in the proper location. Then again IF the trunk is over loaded it could end up being a problem.

AND, an addition for everyone. I didn't have the extra piece of wire to lengthen the wire from the original location. What I did was remove the plastic sleeve from the wire & pulled the orange wire through the channel to where I wanted the light mounted. Then put the plastic clip back on.