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demon452 last won the day on April 14 2018

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About demon452

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  1. So after looking at it a bit more I am going to use 2 Seperate pieces. I really thought about the run channel but then I have to do (2) separate pieces for the door flipper anyways. It would drive me nuts and I would keep looking at the rear window vs door flipper. Just my preference. Hope the heat trick works, if not i have a shrinker/stretcher I can try out. Ordered what I needed so hopefully can start on these in the next 2 week's after I polish them. Again thanks for the info and responses. Steve
  2. Thanks, I have been looking at that as well for an option.
  3. Thanks for the heat trick. I have used the small screws. The fronts had the snap in clips. Which I found and did it that way. The uppers I cannot use screws due to they would go through the ss. Not very thick. Lowers I am fine. I am thinking of just using a heavy duty adhesive for the uppers and door flaps. Thanks again
  4. Ok, didn't know how flexible they were. Let me know on the top. Thanks
  5. I am wondering if there are sources for the rear upper window felts? Maybe they are called something else. Mine are dry rotted.. Pics are enclosed. If non available what are you using and how are they installed. The factory looks to be in between the stainless and steel insert part which I believe is spot welded together. Also what about the beltline rear felts as well. I used universal front because they are straight. The rears are curved. Thanks in advance, Steve
  6. I used SMS auto restoration price was ok wish it was cheaper. If I knew someone with a lathe I would had them made. Or if I could have found some hood rivets oversized I would have went that route. Good luck.
  7. Well what I ended up doing is taking the passenger side spring off (fender is off car) closed the hood and tried adjusting that way. Again corner still lifted up. So I left the center bolt in and took out the other 2 bolts out for hinge. Pushed the corner down, moved hinge around and got it where I wanted it to be. I looked at the other 2 holes and the were off. I Well I opened them up roughly an 1/8" to get more adjustment. Put bolts back in , opened and shut the hood. Seems to be where I want it. Put old spring back on, opened and shut a few more times and its good to go. I am guessing throughout the years some parts have been swapped. Whether or not that made any difference, I don't know. Just happy its all good now with some minor mods. Thanks for the other post. I read that post prior to making my own.
  8. Thank you very much for that info. Guess I will risk buying used springs.
  9. Agreed they were a pain to get them where are now and no clue where they originally were. When i sent them out I wire wheeled and painted those areas. Was just hoping I could find a new set if they exist. Or info on what years may work. Thanks
  10. Do they re-pop the hood springs for a 55 buick century? I have looked and found nothing. If not is there any other make or model car that would work? The passenger side of my hood does not go down all the way. I had the hinges rebuilt already and that corrected the issue a little. Drivers side is fine so it leads me to believe its the hood spring. Thanks in advance
  11. There will be a slight leakage but nothing that will affect flow or cooling issues. Some t-stats have what is called a "jiggle valve" which do the same thing. Helps release air pockets. Here is a pic of a jiggle valve. Serves the same purpose as drilling a small hole.
  12. Suprised nobody has this rare part? Haha. Glad I don't need a wiper arm. Those may be rare around these parts as well.
  13. Here is a pic of what I need. Passenger side dog leg. Please pm with cost. Thanks
  14. Agree with all the statements above. But you have to mix any type of paint before applying. The chemicals seperate. Try using a spray can without shaking and 1 with shaking. You can see the results.