telriv

Bob, That cover was NG anyway. If they would have known better it should have been replaced during the original install.

Should have looked closer at the title & I would have had the answer. Sorry, DUH!!! The original arms & blades are a brushed chrome/stainless. If they were chromed in certain situations you would get blinded by the sun.

Year, make & model????

No, but they do have those also. The type I'm talking about before you zip it up you throw in the drier bags.

Most all of the things mentioned above plus buy one of those bags you can drive in & zip up with the drier bags. May seem kinda expensive but the car will come out looking exactly as it went in even for a few years. AND you WON'T have to worry about any rodents.

His user name on V8Buick is 64 wildcat conv. Do a search & I'm sure you will be able to find it. I don't know if he can do a '65 as the cluster is slightly diff. Tom T.

There's a guy on V8Buick that converts the right side idiot lights to gauges for the '63&'64 gauge assemblies. I think he is known by Wildcat 64. He uses the stock original housing & installs gauges. Tom T.

Probably.

Being my car has over 300K on it I don't believe I need to do maintain it any better.

45 ohms

Don't feel bad Pat happens to me also.

This is one pic. I need to wait to add more.

Pat, Not to be a D--k, but if you brought up the add it states '71-'78 Tornado also.

I know what my oil pressure, coolant temp. & speed are at ALL times. For the most part I don't use the speedo for speed but, use the tach. I know at what RPM's are at what MPH depending on rear gear ratio. Don't forget I've owned this car for more than 50yrs. with over 300K so I think I know my particular vehicle VERY WELL!!! Tom T.

IF the cable is installed CORRECTLY it CAN'T be pulled out from below. IT HAS to be removed from the head. Once it's removed from the head remove the inner cable. Dis-connect the cable at the trans. IT DOESN'T need to be in reverse as this is a TH400 & NOT a DynaFlow. Spray Brakleen OR Carb. cleaner from the top down until it runs out clean. Install the cable & turn it, remove & spray again to remove ALL debris/old grease. Blow out with air to remove spray. Spray cable with Brakleen/Carb. cleaner & wipe down. Roll up cable in your hand & grease while inserting cable at same time turning while installing. Grease until about 3-4" from end. For grease I like using Kendall Super Blue. Maintains it's consistency & will be the same in 10ys. Tom T.

Thanks Bruce!!! It seems they just don't GET IT!!!!.

I COMPLETELY DIS-AGREE WITH ANYBODY WHO SAYS I HAVE TO TAKE MY EYES OFF THE ROAD. THESE ARE ANALOG GAUGES & IF YOU KNOW YOUR CAR/GAUGES YOU WILL KNOW WITH YOUR PEREIFIAL VISION IF SOMETHING IS AMISS WITHOUT TAKING YOUR EYES OFF THE ROAD. END OF THIS SUBJECT FOR ME. Tom T.

Trying to figure out how to post pics from my camera. Tom T.

What good are gauges IF you can't just take a glance at them without taking your eyes off the road while driving???? That's what they are there for. I have two mechanical "Mini" gauges in front of my headlight switch in the upper left hand corner. On a '63 there is NOTHING in that spot so it interferes with NOTHING. I will try & post pictures. Some have seen them at a few Riv. meets & thought it was very ingenious. In my view doesn't hamper the looks but, enhances the intended use. I leave my "Idiot" lights hooked up also because IF for some reason I'm NOT paying attention a red light will catch your eye. I DON'T use an amp/volt gauge. IF the amp light comes on I have some time to decide what I'm ultimately going to do. So in MY MIND it's NOT as important to me personally. On the other hand oil pressure & coolant temp. are the IMPORTANT READINGS!!!! Once you get use to them you can tell at a glance if something is NOT RIGHT. For instance in my case if I'm down a qt. of oil my O/P is down about 1-2pds. I can watch my temp. gauge rise & fall when my t/stat opens or when going up a long grade or coasting down a hill. Tom T.

AND, ONLY AFTER the car is driven & drained while the engine is STILL HOT & ALL the contaminants are still in suspension & can be drained at the same time.

THE ONLY TIME YOU USE VACUUM TO SET INITIAL IGNITION TIMING IS WHEN YOU DON'T HAVE A TIMING LIGHT. With that being said it ONLY gives you a basis & you fine tune, advance or retard, as nec. to get the performance, mileage or pinging to where you feel most comfortable. Rodney, I thought the bushings I sent mostly solved your problem???

17-20 is good. Very mild cam. Little leak down. Good compression.

Bernie, I've been selling these particular "Mini's" since 1999. Except for ONE, which he explained that he messed up" there have been NO RETURNS or complaints. They weigh 6lbs. 12 ozs. as opposed to almost 30 for a stocker. Can crank up to 16-1 compression & draw less than 1/3 the amperage while NOT giving that gear reduction starter sound. Our "Nails" aren't Mopars!!!. They say the biggest form of flattery is when someone tries to copy what I've accomplished. There ARE copies but, there is ONLY ONE original. They ALL claim to fit with no modifications & some are cheaper for less $$$$, but over the last almost 20yrs. mine fit, are a BOLT-IN with NO modifications. I also do "Mini's" for straight 8's & other "Nails" from '53-'63. I researched 20+ yrs. ago what "Modern" seals fit our "Nails" & others have copied. I've also designed "Roller Tip Rockers" that are dyno proven for a HP & TORQUE increase. NO other mods nec. on a completely stock application. I also worked with a piston manufacturer for 2yrs. to produce "Forged" pistons for our beloved "Nails" at a reasonable price which INCLUDES wrist pins, pin fitting & rings. I've been involved with the fastest "Nails" in the country as well as MANY rebuilds. So I can assure you I've got the experience. Hazdaz, The cost although slightly more costly than others, like I said, I GUARANTEE to fit are $319.00. Shipping in a medium flat rate box is approx. $15.00. Tom T.

I have the Mini-Starters in stock & I GUARANTEE they fit & work properly & as intended & are a BOLT-IN. Tom T.