offdensen

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About offdensen

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  1. In the picture in the middle where the hose clamp is. That's what I disconnected and hooked my gauge into. The metal line goes straight to the intake manifold so I chose that one.
  2. I will take a picture tomorrow when it isn't pitch black out for you. I unscrewed the hose clamp that connected the brake booster to the intake manifold and stuck the vacuum gauge in there. To my knowledge that appears to be the only source where a vacuum port goes into the manifold as all the other vacuum ports on the 63 originate from the carburetor. The procedure I used just followed with what Rivman said (first response). Just turned the distributor a bit in both directions to see what would happen. When I got vacuum to its highest point I retarded the distributor a little and tightened the distributor. As far as I can tell this is the best way aside from using a tachometer to set timing when the ignition isn't stock anymore. I no longer have a points system. I still used a timing light to check and make sure that I didnt end up with some ridiculously high timing though. The car doesnt ping anymore and it starts as soon as I turn the key so it seems fine
  3. The car runs alright for the most part but pings at high rpms. Something that I recently noticed. It isn't running stock ignition though as I no longer have points. The way I tuned it before was with a timing light that has a tachometer on it. The way I did it this way was adjusting the timing to find the smoothest idle, not the fastest. Smooth was what I was looking for. I then adjusted the carburetor for the smoothest and fastest idle. Because of the pinging I figured I would try it with a vacuum gauge. It isn't pinging anymore after I drove it today so i consider it a success. I also ended around 5 degree initial. I would use the shop book mostly as a reference to for procedure for parts of getting ready to adjust timing. I acknowledge that stock timing specs go out the window when the ignition system is no longer stock. When I set timing using my tachometer method, I did end up around 10 initial timing.
  4. I ended with the vacuum on 19, Is this about the normal vacuum for a 401 in 1963?
  5. So I wanted to tune my carb and adjust timing using a vacuum gauge. I saw a few videos of people doing this on old Corvettes and mustang's so I thought I would try it since I have a vacuum gauge. I read though that I need to use manifold vacuum, and that the 63 with stock carburetor only has ported vacuum. Is there a way to do this on a 63 or is the ported vacuum too unreliable? If I did this which vacuum source would I use? (Advance port, port behind carb to PVC, port on the manifold that leads to brake booster,ect.) To note I have always just tuned it to the smoothest idle using a tachometer and using the specs in the book, but using a vacuum gauge has intrigued me.
  6. Typo, corrected it. Supposed to be "once again" as in this is one of many problems this forum has helped me with. Besides the tranny leaking the car runs just fine, it makes a few ominous noises but it isn't anything nerve racking. Think it's just bushings being squeaky But thank you all for the input, still not looking forward to the day where I need to find someone that can go through the tranny with confidence if something goes wrong but will deal with it then
  7. It worked. As far as I can tell it isn't dripping anymore and creating a mess. Guess I'll just wait to see how long term a solution this proves to be. This sure is better than pulling the tranny though. I will now use brake fluid to solve every problem in life Once again the roa helps me with riv problems
  8. doh ?‍♂️ Will report back on findings. Guess I'll drive it over the weekend, that'll give it enough time to spread and settle I suppose.
  9. Alright I will try dumping brake fluid in. Few questions though. How much? Can it have a adverse effect of damaging something? Do I overfill with brake fluid or substitute brake fluid for tranny fluid? Dot3 better off than dot4?
  10. Guess I'll buy some brake fluid and let it run. Never thought about brake fluid like that, but how much should I put in?... It's odd that it only leaks on start up, so maybe the seals are just dried up and there are gaps now. The car is older than me so I figured it will need new seals at some point anyways. I tried things like fluid thickeners like Lucas which I have been skeptical of.
  11. To add context I drive it every weekend. Sometimes on the weekdays since I work 4 miles from my house. It has 150k miles and it never leaked before I let it sit for a month. I let it sit while I put new shocks and springs on since the springs were shot. When I started it back up after letting it sit for so long it started a trend of losing a 1qt a week even if it is being used. Oddly enough after driving it for long enough it wont leak when. I get home, but on start up if just leaks a lot of it and forms a puddle. @Ilrlforfun I found out that the guy who owned Keith's transmissions in castro valley does work on the side at his home and will have a talk with him later today.
  12. So my dynaflow is leaking, a lot. I want new seals and such put on and the car has 150k miles so I was considering doing some other stuff to the transmission while it is out. But most importantly I need a transmission shop that knows what a dynaflow even is. I would like suggestions near Dublin California if anyone has any. I called 2 transmission shops recently and they told me that they stray away from more unique transmissions. I can understand that l, which is why I would like to a shop with some experience from someone in the roa.
  13. offdensen

    1972 rear window roller

    Ok I will try those, thanks
  14. Where can I purchase the quarter window roller for a 72 riv? Seen in picture. Only one side has it currently and as you can imagine I would like another. Any leads would be appreciated, and also what is the part called? Just a rear window roller? Retainer? Tried looking on ebay to no avail. I know gm used things like this across multiple makes and models, so I was thinking about trying one made for a tempest but nobody seems to post the diameter of the roller so I'm skeptical
  15. Will do that, and forgot to mention it has a dynaflow in it. I have only ever been checking the fluid in park after a long enough drive