telriv

As always learn SOMETHING new every day.

In 1964 when the 1st. TH400 came out the gear selector in the forward ranges had ONLY Low & Drive. It was still a 3speed TH400 but you had no control over second gear. IF, for instance, you were doing 30MPH & slipped into low it would hold second gear, as if descending a hill, until you slowed & reached approx. 20MPH then it would shift into 1st. gear. You had NO control over this. For 1965 it was changed, among other things, with a forward gear selector that read D-L2-L1. If you slipped it into L2 it would stay there until you actually made a shift to L1 or drive. Good for descending hills using engine braking & NOT go into 1st. at 20MPH. There were other things built in that I won't get into now. Tom T.

IF I remember correctly the originals were chromed. I've got a couple around here SOMEPLACE!!!!

Bill, Just to let you know I used three short sheet metal screws to mount mine. MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT TOO LONG or else you'll end up with divet makes in the deck lid. IF I remember correctly I used a 1/8" drill bit. AND, just to be picky I personally don't like the rubber hose as it can move. That's why I use masking tape. IF it is put on tightly it WON'T MOVE. Tom T.

I've sold more than one box to other ROA members besides RRB. Does anyone else have any comments to add positive or negative??? I really would like to know how everything worked for you in your particular case. IF nec. I can see about making the nec. changes to help accommodate yours & others experiences/installations. Tom T.

Looks like it MIGHT be some kind of an old water injection set-up.

What you don't have you will need to cut the ones that are missing from a piece of hard rubber to the dimensions shown. Most only use the two for the bottom for supporting the glass. Using tape as was mentioned when eliminate the need for the extra pieces.

Again, I haven't done any. How about swapping left to right & right to left???

I needed to get the widows down on a '66 Wildcat in a salvage yard to gain access to other parts & the way I explained it is the only way it worked for me using a jumper box. This has been my experience in the past also on the older cars. Not only GM but Ford & Chrysler also.

Steering radius remains the SAME.

I've never done it as I've not had the opportunity to do so, but I was told to just remove & replace the gear backwards as the whole gear isn't used to begin with. IF you look at the gear you will probably see one or two teeth are not even worn. Tom T.

Use a 12 volt battery , a jumper box or some kind of source for 12 volts that has enough amperage to operate the motor. AT LEAST 10 amps. Use two jumper wires. Connect both jumper wires to the 12 volt source. One to negative the other to positive. One jumper wire goes to one terminal. The other jumper wire goes to the other terminal. Just don't let the jumper wires touch together. Wrap one of the jumpers leads in tape to help prevent shorting. The motor will now go one way. Reverse the connections & the motor will spin the other way. The motor DOES NOT ground through the case. It reverses direction at the motor through the jumper wires NOT through a ground to the vehicle so the motor DOES NOT have to be grounded. Let it run for a while in both directions to see if it still operates. Since there is NO LOAD against it/it will run for hours WITHOUT any harm. Tom T.

Because what your asking is impossible. Your train of thought needs to be brought into perspective. That's why I answered the way I did now & back when. AND, Ed just explained another example which I'm sure you will question just like you have done in the past. Corvettes did the same but added holes in the steering arms that were closer to speed up the ratio as there was no room with the Vette set-up to lengthen the pitman & idler arms so a hole was added on the spindle closer to the actual spindle. You just like pushing my buttons don't you. I'm not playing into your game & as far as ANY future responses to YOU I WILL NOT ANSWER. Others have responded that have installed one of my boxes & they are VERY PLEASED!!!! So, put that in your hat & smoke it Mr. know it all. Tom T.

Here we go again.!!!!

2.5 turns lock-lock fast ratio rebuilt steering boxes. One year warranty with no mileage limit. In the past when you wanted to upgrade your vague steering with the box that came on our Rivs. or Full size cars you had NO choice but to use one of the big suppliers/rebuilders of steering boxes. Even the Rivs. with the faster ratio ( 15-1 or 3.25 turns lock-lock) can be improved upon with one of "My" rebuilt boxes. It makes a drastic improvement over what has been available in the past at a greatly reduced cost in comparison to what has been offered previously. For the most part almost feels like a rack & pinion modern steering system that's standard on newer cars of today. Even though it will improve steering response with worn out suspension parts it is NOT a replacement for those parts, it will ONLY improve what you have. IE worn idler arm, center link, tie rod ends, shocks, springs, ball joints, sway bar links & bushings, strut rod/brake reaction rod bushings, rear panhard rod bushings, worn out front or rear suspension bushings, radial tires, correct alignment specs. etc. In the past for an upgrade you will have paid $750.00-$850.00 for this rebuild, even using your box as a core. The core cost was/is $150.00-$300.00. What your NOT TOLD upfront is that IF you don't return a fast ratio box you will not get your core $$$ back. Your not told this until the box is done & being returned or you even sent in your core for the conversion. So now that you've sent your core back or used your box for the conversion it will be an additional $150.00-$300.00 on top of what you were ALREADY quoted. Now the cost has risen to $900.00-$1150.00 How can a fast ratio be returned if your doing an upgrade???? My boxes are $450.00+$100.00 core charge. Makes NO DIFF. if a fast ratio or not. The ONLY stipulation to this is I need to receive a core back for shipment back to the manufacturer within 30 days or else I lose the core $$$$. ALSO it has to be a rebuildable core. NOTHING that been sitting out in a field for years that's ALL RUSTED. You MUST remember that it needs to be a rebuildable core & be able to sell it to someone else in as nice a condition as you would expect your rebuilt should be. Added to this is shipping. $38.00 to myself from the manufacturer. $20.00 from myself to yourself & $20.00 to return the core to the original manufacturer. They WILL NOT drop ship to save the $20.00 because they will only ship to myself. For a grand total of $528.00. OR if you live close buy you can pick one up & save $20.00 shipping to you. I have figured out a way to save a considerable amount of shipping $$$ by using a LARGE Flat Rate Box which I line with some paneling to give the box some support which you can reuse to ship the box back to myself. I have worked out all the specs. with them for almost a year before we were able to come up with what I feel is a drastic improvement in feel/steering response but keeping the steering feel as stock as possible. NO SPORT/very tight feeling. Just as close to a stock feel as is possible so you can now enjoy driving your Riv. or Full Size GM car from approx. '59-''76 & NOT lose that luxury car driving experience ( also fits others, call for applications) as a complete bolt-in swap requiring NO additional hoses, adapters or anything else. IF needed the "Rag" joints are readily available at just about ANY auto parts stores. They are 3 1/4" diameter. NOT the smaller 3". I have sold these boxes to many & some to ROA members that have given their feedback. I encourage you to read their comments. A check made out to myself & mailed to: Tom Telesco 12 Cook St. Norwalk, Ct. 06853-1601 203-324-6045 If I'm not home leave a message & I WILL call you back. Looking forward to helping you to improve the enjoyment of your Riv. Tom T.

A new '64 switch is readily available at NAPA.

With the Edelbrock B4B OR the Ellco (which is patterned from the Edelbrock B4B) the carb spacing is WIDER so the stock air cleaner has to be modified.

I've removed MANY WITHOUT damage. Just need a pick & lift one corner of four at a time.

Supposedly the Riv. GS had springs that were 1" lower than stock with a slightly heavier spring rate & shocks to match.

Yeah, but what caused the fuse to blow in the 1st. place????

No Ed, the carbs. were 750 up to '70 them 800 from '71 on. There's a way to identify one, with pics, on V8Buick. Do a search.

I may try a set Dave, but I've had NO problems with the Taylor's. Arnulfo, they DON'T make a ready made set. I ALWAYS use universal & make them up myself. Tom T.

I use the Taylor Spiro-Pro universal wires on most of the cars I do. Been VERY HAPPY with them. They come in 90*, 135* & Straight. Depending on where you buy are also reasonably priced.

Obviously he didn't crack it open. Now you'll be spending MANY DAYS fixing his mistakes/lack of knowledge all for the sake of NOT opening a book..

There is NO ignition relay. IF there was one it would be the starter solenoid.