DShoes

@atencioee, @gungeey answered with more detail than I ever could but I'll tag on that I did not upgrade my alternator. Also, I'm not sure how you're going to keep an original radio face (mechanical) to use with digital components like Bluetooth. Maybe I misunderstood what you wanted to do. I've been very happy with my RetroSound Hermosa and you can customize it to your liking: https://www.retromanufacturing.com/collections/vehicle-search/1965+Buick+Riviera?rq=yr_1965~mk_Buick~md_Riviera Also, don't forget your sound dampening. I put the adhesive sound deadening material on most of the bare metal in the trunk before recovering. It improves the bass response 10X and it knocks out any metal rattle that might occur between the panels. Good luck!

Ed / Rodney, I think you're on to something! Currently investigating these bike cable ferrules from Amazon and will report back.

Clever! Can’t get cleaner than that!

Good thread, gungeey. I’m also about stealth + quality sound. I’m running Morel speakers powered by a Kenwood amp. I’ve pulled the spare tire and the amp is fastened to the backside of the back seats. 10” sub in the trunk awaiting matching interior vinyl re-wrap. Two 6x9s have been placed in a redone shelf above the back seats. Two 6” speakers also sit in custom enclosures on the door kick panels. OEM dash speaker was pulled and upgraded. Radio is a Retrosound Hermosa, which I bought for the Bluetooth and decent look (still not as cool as OEM). Also converted the cigarette lighter to USB ports which connects to the sound system and charges your phone.

Rivnik, those are the originals clips (as far as I know - I am 2nd owner).

Curmudgeon: with a quality stereo system and quality insulation, you won’t hear anything. Perfect for yelling at those kids to get off your lawn. 😉

Good thought Rod, especially on using the Dremmel to not lose length. Tricky part is that I think I need to reduce the length of the cables a fraction so that they are pulling evenly and at the right tension. At least your method gives me more cable to work down. Now where to find those end caps….?

Spare doesn’t go. It stays at home. I figured I didn’t need the extra weight and would call AAA if need be. Sounds good on the new thread. Maybe I can even get photos right side up! So frustrating…

Gungeey, I’m all for that thread! Amp is right behind the back seat where the spare tire used to be. I re-did the back shelf and put 2 x 9” oval mids from Morel there. Both doors got custom enclosures for some 6” Morels. Tweeter (also Morel) replaced the OEM speaker under the dash. Retrosound face allows for Bluetooth, etc. Incredibly happy with the outcome acoustically and visually.

BINGO. Phoemsen, I don't know why I didn't think of something so simple, but that did the trick. Thank you!

Thanks Seafoam. Will give that a try.

I’ve lost the correct tension from the three cables that allow adjustment of the side view mirror. As such, my mirror won’t stay in place while driving. My sense is that the cables have gotten stretched a bit too long. You can see one strand has even broken. I’m a little nervous about cutting and recapping as this may make them too short. Also not sure what to cap them with that will still fit / anchor appropriately in the joystick housing. Thoughts / suggestions?

This is part of the problem. I’m going to look for more of a flathead screw perhaps with a shorter body to make sure clearance is not an issue. My first preference is no rubber washers at all. I trust you guys don’t have a lid that wiggles and squeaks?

What should have been a simple fix has continued to elude me... The center console lid on my '65 is loose and rattles. When I try adding some rubber washers, it won't close flush. I must be missing something incredibly obvious here... Wrong length fasteners? Something else? Can someone show me the light please? Note it does have the small rubber lid "bumpers" where the lid lands near the shifter.

Hi all. I have an extra 64-65 hood spear that is in very nice condition and ready for a new home. Note it's silver argent color has been replaced with a black satin (no idea why my paint guy did that) but its an easy fix and the spear is in great shape. $50 + shipping from Seattle. Posting here first before going to Craigslist, etc.