telriv

64 Nail, i take it your not interested in a good used center link. IF you are let me know as I have someone esle looking for one ALSO & I feel you have "1st. rite of refusal". Tom T.

A small amount of heat will remove the wood inlay. In all honesty once you do the replacement do you think anyone will want to go through the hassle of changing it again. If for some reason the guy who is then taken the responsibility of preserving a piece of history/future caretaker it's now HIS PROBLEM & possibly & more than likely not yours. Tom T.

One way to pinpoint a leak is with a piece of steel line or whatever you have around. Something like a 3/16ths. or 1/4" steel or copper or aluminum tubing/line. You'll be using it like a stethoscope, sort of like using a screwdriver to your ear & touching parts until you find where the noise is coming from. Well with the tube you do the same thing by putting one end to your ear & fishing around until you hear where the exhaust is coming from. You'll be able to hear the exhaust leak WITHOUT touching the hot exhaust manifold & prevent yourself from possibly getting burned. In the case of the tube projecting from the bottom of the manifold you will have to bend the tube in a U shape to reach under there. Tom T.

That happens when the metal plate is NOT USED under the carb. above the base gasket. The way we use our cars today the heat under the carb. is NOT nec. any longer. I just block the holes in the manifold UNDER the carb. I even block/gut the heat riser valve. DON'T block the 4 holes in the heads with Hi Perf. gaskets. The manifold needs some heat in it to flash the cat pee we have today they call gasoline. IF you do the carb./car will BOG/hesitate.

Yeah, that's one of the things about the Pertronix if the key is left on it usually fries the module. The one wire unit I sell automatically turns itself off after a period of time so this doesn't happen. ALSO, in the crank position the coil should have 12 volts going to it through the starter solenoid. In this case IF voltage was too low it would get more voltage from the yellow wire off the starter. Check your battery voltage 1st. before going any further. Tom T.

Ed, I think what he was referring to was the '71-'76/12" disc rotors from the Riv. are the rotors needed & that they will fit on the '65's.

Tom, How heavy/large is the piece your looking to send. USPS flat rate boxes are a great deal if it will fit & not over a 150pds. As an example I needed to ship a piece to Germany that was a total of 3ozs. Out of 5 diff. shippers from $185.00 as low as $130.00. Bought a padded envelope from USPS for $1.19 & the entire cost was slightly less than $20.00. I ship the steering boxes USPS in a Large Flat Rate Box which is kinda awkward & heavy for $20.00. From the manufacturer I use it costs me $38.00 for them to ship it to me across the country & using a flat rate box only costs me $20.00 to send it back. Give it a shot you may be surprised. Tom T.

Clark's did mine for my '64 in leather probably about 16 or so years ago in the '64 pattern.

find out what the part number is then do a search on ebay OR google the part number. something i'm sure will pop up.

Kev, Since the pedal is now hard to step on the link you hooked up needs to be adjusted properly. Since it appears to run better now than ever you need to do some investigating. IF you disconnect the kick down from where you installed it have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor, engine NOT RUNNING. Make sure the choke is all the way open. It should be since you have a manual choke. Now take the rod you dis-connected & pull it forward kinda hard by hand. It has some spring tension on it. Now try to install it back into the hole from which it was removed while being extended. Will it just slip right back in or does it need to be adjusted more to lengthen it??? These adjustments are in the chassis manual if you need more guidance. You will NOT feel a passing gear as there is not one. The only thing you may feel is the car pulling forward at a faster pace & the engine RPM's will increase as the variable pitch converter kicks in. That smooth rush of power is one of the things people LOVE about the DynaFlow. In drive there is NEVER any gear changes. The only thing connecting the engine to the rear wheels is a fluid transmission through the torque converter. It's what MANY new cars are trying to achieve today with CVT trans., starting out in 2nd. gear, & in turn causes much added heat to the fluid which is not good for trans. longevity, not downshifting to a lower gear until almost at a dead stop & letting the torque converter do all the slipping nec. for a smoother transition . Tom T.

Depending on the size of the system one to two quart capacity seems to work well.

Personally I would look for the CORRECT AFB carburetor rather than the 4GC. MUCH easier to work on, set up, etc. I rebuild AFB's for people all over the world. ALSO, I've done quite a few for members here. Tom T.

I have a used center link from a 52K mile '64 Riv. if interested. The ends are nice & tight like new. I will install grease fittings so it should NEVER wear out. The ONLY THING I have to caution about is to ONLY USE A HAND GREASE GUN WHEN LUBING. If a high pressure gun is used, like at most oil change places & garages, it will blow it apart. Would be the same if you had yours rebuilt. The center link was NOT provided with grease fittings from the factory for this reason since it doesn't require the same amount of movement that other suspension components use/need. Tom T.

Ut oh, here we go again

You could hookup the rod to the carb. & see what happens. IF it works then all that needs to be done is adjust it as per the manual. You do have a chassis manual don't you??? IF not you will find pretty quickly it will be your best friend. Next we need to find out if the hose plugged onto the carb. for the vacuum advance is ported or manifold vacuum. To find out, start the car & pull off the hose & stick your finger to it. IF it sucks on your finger it's manifold vacuum. IF it does not give it a little throttle to see if now it sucks. IF it does now that's the one for the vacuum advance. The other on the left side of the carb. will then be manifold vacuum which will be hooked up to the vacuum control for the HVAC system. Where the power brake hose is hooked up now originally it had a one way valve coming off one end & the brake vacuum supply was at the other end facing the left. Tom T.

IF it's been going a few hundred miles a year in 8 years I am almost willing to bet it needs points. After 8 years the rubbing block has worn down. Unless of course if it has an electronic conversion. Even with that the dist. needs service & adjustments periodically although lubing the rubbing block is not one of them. By the pic. & color I'm assuming we are talking about a '63 Riv??? Is the passing gear/switch pitch hooked up??? Leaving an awful lot of performance on the table without it hooked up. How is the vacuum for the HVAC system being supplied. The one way valve is missing from the front of the manifold where the power brake hose is???

An aside to the problem. My belief is that the bolt was TOO LONG to begin with & has bottomed out. In this area is not prone to galvanic corrosion because the steel bolt & cast iron will not usually corrode. After the nut is welded on the broken bolt will transfer heat into the head. At this point try rocking the nut back & forth with an open end wrench. IF you can get it to move even very little hit with penetrate while still warm so hopefully some of it will wick into the threads & try again. It may have to heated & cooled/sprayed a few times, but eventually will soak into the threads to make the removal process a success. This is a much better way for a novice to try than trying to drill & tap in my experience. GOOD LUCK!!!! Tom T.

Are you grounding the wire at the dis-connect at the rear of the car or at the sender??? It's located behind the license plate & I believe the wire color is green. Ground this wire to a known GOOD ground (bumper)& run a jumper wire between the ground & green wire the gauge should then go to empty.

In reality on a lift MAX an hour.

Rather than trying to break the nut loose & the shaft will always turn & you need some way to hold the shaft from turning can be a frustrating exercise. What I've done in the past is to get a deep 9/16ths. socket & a long extension. Get the socket over the upper nut & bend the upper stud back & forth until it breaks off. I've been doing it like this for years & in most cases don't even try to loosen the nut. Start now to soak the nuts & bolts with a rust penetrating fluid like WD40 or PBlaster on the bottom of the front shocks, top & bottom of rear shocks now & give the product time to does its job will make things go much easier. After the front top is done on top the bottom bolts should be easy. Same with the rear top & bottom are just nuts & bolts.

Nowadays just because a part is new/replaced DOESN'T mean it's good. Lot of junk out there. The ONLY way to tell is test in a pot of water on the stove & a GOOD thermometer.

AND, from the pics it also needs a cam

Make sure the calipers are not dragging. The brakes generate a lot of heat & is transferred from the wheels. Are the wheels hot also???

AND, now we have another question. The engine comes back as a '62 which had a DynaFlow whereas '64 was a TH400. Rear sizing of the crank pilot hole was diff. A 400 flexplate could be ground out to make it fit the larger DynaFlow crank, BUT was the adapter added to support the smaller diameter of the 400 converter hub??? With the hub of the converter not supported it will eventually do damage to engine bearings & front trans. pump.

What I've noticed on Michelin tires is that they do VERY GOOD when new. As they get older they seem to harden & become slippery when wet.