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Ckerch

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  1. I am more of your option 3 person. Nothing crazy. In the middle of a front disc brake conversion and decided to go through the front suspension while I have it on the lift. When talking to Coil Spring Specialties, they were guessing I might have roughly 1/2" sag over the 56 years. So I was looking at a 1" drop similar to fxrspjc's car on page 10 of this post but think he might be running 18's. Might be a flip of the coin because I really like yours. QA-1's sounds intriguing but have not seen any post of people doing it on a Riv. Thanks again for the feedback Carl
  2. Art Love the stance and the wheels. Nice touch. Did you need wheel spacers to use that wide of a rim? Is your car stock height or lowered?
  3. On my 64, I am trying to remove the top bolt that goes through the brake anchor pin. I have sprayed it with penetrating oil and using an impact wrench but neither side will move. I am wondering if it is just a stubborn bolt or possibly a reverse thread. Could not find anything in the service manual discussing the removal of this bolt. Does anyone know if it is a normal thread or a reverse thread? Carl UPDATE: Answered my own question. It is standard thread.
  4. Could not find that part number (25-3142259-7) on there website so it must be an internal number. They did not get back to me yet (probably due to the holiday) but hopefully tomorrow. It will be a lot easier with a part number. Thanks again for the feedback Carl
  5. Thanks, I have a call into them Carl
  6. When fixing my radiator, I ran into the same side seal that need to be replaced. Did anyone start selling these? Carl
  7. Zimm63 Those spots you you use are the ones I am shooting for. That aligns more to chevy X frame. It would be a tight fit to get a pad in rearward of the lower control arm bracket before it slopes up. I thought about getting under the LCA bracket/frame but worried I would bend the bracket because it sits slightly lower than the frame. I am with you about having all the weight above my head but sure beats being on a crawler. Thanks for everyone's feedback Carl
  8. Good job on the extenders Do you remember the metal wall thickness or did you use solid bars ? Did you create new pads or use your lift pads? I take it when you say they are locked in, you used round sleeves welded into the extender and that is inserted into the lift arm hole on the end. Is that correct? Did you position the pads per the lift points below or on top of the lower control bracket? The reason I ask is the frame in the rear location starts angling up shortly after the bracket. I have seen ones that have a notch with gussets for the drive shaft but that seems that it would be near impossible to get on the lift. Your design looks more practical . I would imagine after some practice, it gets easier the more you use it. I know this is a lot of questions but would like to learn from your experience. Thank You Carl
  9. Tom Both front and rear arms are fully extended. With is being an asymmetrical lift, the front arms are shorter so I positioned the car so I could get the pad in the correct front lift point and that left the rear in the point in the picture. The other concern was, by positioning the the car so the front is on the correct lift point, it cause the car to also be more rearward in the relation to the lift columns. According to the lift instructions, Challenger likes the columns to a aligned to the front of the drivers seat and I know every car balance point is different but that is probably a good rule of thumb. Right now it is positioned close to the middle of the floor board. Not off much (maybe 6-8"). I am new to having a lift ( actually this is only the second vehicle I have had on a lift) so I don't have much experience with this and if this is a problem. It seems to be level at this position.
  10. Actually that is a lot of help. For the price of safety, this would be a good option then I am not guessing if I used the right size tubing. Thanks Carl
  11. I might have to go that way because it does seem bouncy. With the car up about 18", I rocked it pretty hard and did not move at the pads but concerned when raising/lowering the car. I would want to make sure the extender is not the weak link and not having a Mechanical Engineering background, do you remember what size tubing and wall thickness you used? I assumed you made one for the front and one for the rear. Do you remember any bowing in the extender? Thanks for the feedback
  12. Tom Took these this morning. It is kind on similar to the Chevy X frame lift points. I would assume this would shift my balance point using the Chevy method. My only other option is to make up a frame extender similar to below. Not sure if this would be any better.
  13. Tom It is definitely rearward of the X and adjacent to the bracket. I can get a picture tomorrow
  14. Just in front of the lower control arm bracket(closer to the X part of the frame)
  15. New to using a lift and I thought my rear arms were long enough but could only reach the point on the frame just before the lower control arm. It does make it a little more bouncing than my other vehicle but that is probably because the arms are fully extended. I check but they don't make extenders for my lift. Probably will go to Harbor freight and buy a couple of under hoist safety stands for good measure. Thanks for the feedback.
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