Ckerch

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  1. Checked the power booster and sure enough, after about 2 minutes without depressing the pedal, the booster loses vacuum. Pulled the check valve and it is still good so it must be an internal leak. So it looks like I need a new one. Looked at some boosters from local parts store but the check valve port comes out at a 90 deg angle. Mine (which matches the service manual picture) comes straight out. I assume it is the original booster and like the way it connects while maintaining the stock look. I will call Dewey Booster tomorrow but would prefer buying from an auto parts store and save some money. I plan on converting to a 67 dual master next year but do you guys know if the 64 booster is compatible with the 67 booster? Thanks
  2. I honestly don't know how many times I pressed the brake pedal because I was also working on the brake lights to get both working. I know I pressed them a couple of times but cannot recall what the travel was. I will try tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback. This forum is a big help.
  3. I went back out and tested the brakes. Before starting the engine pressed down on the brakes and it stop about 2 inches from the floor board and then started the engine, The brake went down another 1/2 inch to a hard stop. That is where the hard braking starts. Would you still think the booster and master cylinder need to be replaced. Thanks for all the input.
  4. It is not the original one. It was replace about 3K miles ago BUT.....that was in 95. Not to disagree with you but if I had corrosion, shouldn't it be apparent without power brake (engine not running). I would expect the pedal to go down further than half. Just building a barn and putting a lift in next spring. Was hoping I would get lucky and than convert to dual master then. From prior posts, as long as my power booster is good, I could use a 67 master cylinder, running one of the reservoirs straight to the rear brakes and the other to the front blocks. I think Ed did this. Is this the correct way? Thanks
  5. Having a problem with my brakes. With engine running, the pedal goes almost to the floorboard before any noticeable breaking happens. Here is want I have done: 1) Because of broken bleeders or leaking wheel cylinders, I have replaced all cylinders except Left/Rear. 2) New brake shoes in the front. Rear still look good. 3) Replace all brake hoses front and rear. Still using original steel lines 4) Adjusted shoe to just prior to making contact with drums before bleeding 5) Flushed and bled the lines with new fluid. I used the sequence in the service manual (Right/front, left/front, Right/rear and left/rear) 6) Had problems with front/right hose leaking at coperwasher/seal. Used thicker (1/6 vs 1/32) and that seem to correct it. Re-bled that side since I had it capped while fixing the leak. Only minimal amount of air came out when I did this time and the brake pedal did not feel spongy or fading so I did not bleed the others. With my other vehicles, I always bled lines starting with the furthest from the master cylinder (in most cases Right/rear). It should not matter but how do others do it? I took it out and broke hard( pedal almost to the floor) and the right rear lock up but no others. I am starting to think it may be the master cylinder but with the engine off I can only push down halfway to the floor board so it is a little confusing to me. Not sure how to test master cylinder only. Any suggestions would be appreciated? Thanks
  6. While working at GM in the Auto Park group, I had a chance to drive a number of their models and they are a very nice car but, like all electrics, it come at a cost. I brought up the fuel cell technology because that should bring the cost down considerably. The OEMs will not need the huge battery pack and all the cooling needed for the batteries during charging. However, while all the OEM are working on development, it is yet to be proved that one that can be mass produced. Exciting times, but I think the gas vehicles will be around for sometime
  7. I believe this climate change alarm is more about the money than anything else. How many of these high profile climate change alarmists fly around in their gas guzzling jets and living there inefficient house. Al Gore comes to mind. There will be a lot of money made controlling and selling these credits. Dig into this and you will be amazed at just what politicians has their hooks into controlling these credits. Just recently, Prince Harry and his family will use Elton Jones private plane to go on vacation to France. When there was an uproar, Elton Jones said to back off because he paid the carbon tax. I bring this up because it just shows the hypocrisy of it all. Back when the whole ozone alarm went off, they said the chlorine released by Freon was increasing at a rapid rate because of it. This was based on the NASA satellites readings. They convinced everyone (governments) that this Freon needs to be eliminated now because the existing chlorine in the upper atmosphere will stay up there for 75 to 100 years continuing to destroy the Ozone. We quickly phase out freon costing billions of dollars in converting. What's interesting is the ozone holes immediately started to get smaller. What happen to the destructive chlorine staying up there for years destroying the ozone. Oh ya, and years after this conversation was made, NASA realized the satellite was reading carbon dioxide instead of chlorine. I am not saying we should not be environmentally conscious, but it has to be also financially beneficial. On the electric vehicle discussion. Nobody seems to talk about disposal of all these lithium batteries and what the financial and environmental impact will be. GM never did release what a new Volt battery would cost to replace or the energy/environmental impact it takes to make this large battery pack compared to a fossil fuel vehicle. I think electrical vehicle vehicle will be in the future but I think it will get the energy through a fuel cell and not from a battery. To me that will be a game changer, but that is a ways off. Just my .02$
  8. The bleeders did not have caps. Replaced the 2 wheel cylinders that I broke the bleeders on. Also going to replace the other bleeders in the cylinders not replaced. I thought about using anti-seize to all bleeders. Is that the same anti-seize use on spark plugs? Also do you use caps that cover only the top or ones that go further down? Also, while I am working on the brakes, I am replacing the rubber hoses too. FYI, I ordered some from Autozone (PN 88204) and they turned out to be too short and the ends are wrong causing them not to seal. I took them back and they use the same P/N on 63-66 MY, so beware. Thanks for the feedback Carl
  9. That is what I thought. Yep, going to order new wheel cylinders Thanks Carl
  10. I wanted to bleed my brakes on my 64 and snap both bleeders on the passenger side. The driver side came out OK. Grasping at straws, but are by any chance are the bleeders reverse thread on passenger side? The manual does not mention it but even with a lot of PB blaster and tapping it, it still will not budge. Thank You Carl
  11. Tom When you talk fusible link, I assume you are installing it on the ignition feed line to a relay controlled by the ignition switch. Is that correct and what amperage do you use? And thank everyone for the suggestions and insight. Carl
  12. I think I lucked out (at least as far as the ignition switch). Felt up there and could not feel any of the connectors melting. Was able to get a picture of the back. Are there any other hot spots or known electrical issues I should check for? Thanks Carl
  13. So this brown must be the feed from the switch. When running a relay, do you go back to the battery for that feed or do you pull it from the Red wire on the fuse block? Do you know the current used for brown ignition feed? If I do go from the battery, is there a good place to get through the fire wall? Thanks Carl
  14. I saw that. I will have to track that wire down and see what it goes to. I have a couple of electrical gremlins going on. Horn, power vents, none of the dome lights and of course the air does not work but that may be the refrigerant. Thanks for the tip on the ignition switch, will add that to the list of things to check. Carl