alini

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About alini

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  • Birthday 01/21/1971

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  1. Maybe not. I found another page with the same picture listing it for 27,800. I’ve tried contacting the people thru their pages. Waiting for an answer. It may have sold already
  2. I guess my old car is up for sale again. Page says $33,900. That would be amazing if they get it https://carscoms.com/65-buick-riviera-0-blue-coupe-232117.html
  3. The only 10 gauge wire in the window system of a factory power window car is from the battery to circuit breaker which was mounted on the wall behind the left kick panel. Then 10 gauge from the CB to to the drivers window switch, all other switches worked off that power and all remaining wire was 14 gauge. The system never maxes out at 40 AMP, the breaker would 'shut off power' when the motor reached its travel limits and then reset once you released the switch. With all that said, you dont have a factory window set up and how your system works can be drastically different. If your system runs off a 40 amp fuse and you keep popping it, there is a fault in the circuit, either a motor drawing too much or whatever the failsafe is when the motor reaches max travel is not working. My suggestion is to get into the door wiring, so you can run the motors off a stand alone power source, most of us use a cordless drill battery to run window motors for testing. test each motor individually and see how they operate and work your way backwards. Hook your power source up at switches, do the switches perform just as good as directly to the motors. If not your switches are bad, then step back to the fuse connection and jumper that. applying your power to the window side of the fuse and ground the frame and see how the windows work. Its the only way to systematically figure out which link is the weakest in your set up. Someplace in your set up there has to be some 'safety' that when the window reaches its max travel, the motor shuts off. Either internally or externally. something else to consider is when your fuse pops, as soon as you try to move, or when you reach max travel or somewhere in between. Is it just a specific window or direction causing the problem. Are the window tracks clean and does the window have the best chance to move up and down smoothly
  4. I stopped in because someone told me a person was looking for help and I may have an answer. Then I found this. Call it what you will, I used this forum extensively in the rebuilding of my Riv back in the day. I took a car from the grave, having not moved in a dirt field for 14 years and gave it life again. Was it restoration quality, not by any means. Did I modify a few things to make it custom, yes. Did I learn a ton...YES, did I meet some great people and make a few friends, YES. That should be the focus, education and friendly sharing of info....what someone does with that info is up to the. If a 'restoration' only mantra is put in place, this will really slow traffic and many are going to find other sources of data. Just my opinion
  5. The guys from Nichols paint and fab are selling all the parts they didn’t use in the 1963 resto mod build. You may want to reach out to them and see what they have. They posted the rolling frame for sale on Instagram
  6. Yes that was my car, I popped in to the forum to see if anyone here might have gotten it or knows where it went. I just found the website listing tonight. The guy who bought it from me doesnt seem to have done anything except drive it, the air filter is alot dirtier then when I sold it.
  7. My question was more from a point of identifying the history of the truck, I was finding numerous colors as I removed all the paint and wondered what the base color was if any. But the fact I am building a custom truck rather than a restoration seems to make people not want to help....I might as well be a homeless guy asking directions. I truly hate the world these days and this just adds to it. Someone needs help or asks a question you answer it not give them a rash of crap for the choices of their life or push your opinion on them without any reference to the assistance they need. Im just going to build the damn truck and screw the forums for help anymore. I spent 4 years in the Riviera section of this forum helping everyone who had questions, it obviously didnt pay off for anything except knowing I treated people right
  8. went to the VCCA forums and introduced myself and pretty much every response stressed they only restore their vehicles....since Im customizing I should find another place to get my answers. Wont be going back to the forum for anything
  9. Can anyone tell me if a 1937 had a painted frame or not. I cant find any sign of original paint on mine, just a load of surface rust, especially under the cab
  10. I have a 37, I want to switch to a manual trans. The truck came with a th350. Its looking like a Camaro T5 with a S-10 tailshaft will allow for the bench seat to stay. Im not all that bothered to keep the bench, just wondering where the shifter on yours ended up.
  11. I picked up my 'new to me' 1937 1/2 ton the other day. Sadly the suspension and brakes are worse than I expected. All the bushings in the springs are shot, all the springs have been 'flattened' and the shackles arent mounted right so there is no travel. The brake line routing is bothersome and on a single line master cylinder and drum brakes. So the first thing I want to do is get the truck on a safe suspension and decent brakes. There are tons of kits out there, any one stand out as the one that everyone likes or one to avoid? Having just bought the truck I have no idea what factory ride height or quality is and I dont want to drive it in its current condition. So I dont know what or how much I want to lower from stock, or even if I want stock. I like the height its at right now, but no way of knowing what that means in relation to factory numbers to order 'lowering' pieces.
  12. I am picking up a 1937 Chevy truck on Tuesday. Previous owners have already installed a 350 cid engine, Turbo350 trans and Ford 9 inch rear. The only other modification so far was a more modern bench seat but the seller couldnt tell me from what. The charging system, lights, ignition are all 12 volt, the seller said none of the gauges work so Im assuming they are still 6 volt and need to be converted. With the stock suspension in the truck and the ford 9 rear the lug nut count is weird (6 in the front and 5 in the rear) so the rims dont match. Upon initial inspection I found the engine mounting is a little awkward to me, its mounted on a large U cradle mounted to the cross member at two spots and the cradle is only bolted to two bolts in the lower front corners of the block. I'm a novice to this generation vehicle, but Its my understanding thats how the original 50s cars were mounted. So it will be one of the first things I address to get it on the road. Previous owner got it from an estate sale a year ago and barely drove it. The front passenger drum brake locks up very easily, I"ll get the brakes serviceable until I decide which way I want to take it. Ive heard some people hate the solid axle and others say its not bad. Im leaning toward leaving the truck as stock as possible and just make a cruiser out of it. This is not my first 'overhaul' I did a frame off rebuild of a 65 Riviera, that is posted in the Riviera section of the forum. Took me 4 years and I did everything by myself except the transmission rebuild. I am ust about complete on a panel conversion of a PT Cruiser, again something I did entirely myself (except the paint - I paid because I dont have the space in the garage anymore) So Im looking forward to getting into this project and seeing what challenges it throws at me. I willbe asking alot of questions
  13. I took my switch apart, but dont recall everything I do know the larger spring is what keeps the brass piece in contact with the switch (end with the wires) and the smaller spring is to reset the plunger for the washer button. If I recall the brass plate sits with the drepssression against the switch side and would make contact when they were turned into position. Good luck, I know I had a hard time finding a replacement which was why I rebuilt mine
  14. Im afraid I may have to go that route which sucks because I want to drive it often, so constantly shuffling cars to go anywhere will be a pain.