telriv

As far as I remember ALL the lines are 3/16ths. The only one I remember being diff. is the line from the master to the junction block on the frame is 1/4".

If I remember correctly Mike Tromm on V8buick.com makes the OEM window stickers. He has a pretty good idea of where to get the nec. specifications to produce them.

Something many do not know what the A/C & Champion stand for. A/C = Albert Champion & Champion = Albert Champion.....

For ANYONE that's interested I stock & sell the faster ratio steering boxes at 2 1/2 turns lock-lock. On the '64 wagon the front shocks are the same. Not sure about the rears, MAYBE. I've installed the Bilsteins on quite a few cars & EVERYONE has been satisfied. Tom T.

I installed front Disc brakes from a '70 Estate wagon on my '64 Riv. back in the early 80's sometime. The '70 master bolted right up to the '64 booster. Problem was the '64 booster rod, altho adjustable, wasn't adjustable enough. The pin was too long by a good amount. The problem is to remove the pin in the middle of the booster is NOT like most. The booster has to come entirely apart to access the pin. For me it wasn't too hard to take apart, BUT it is a PIA. This is the time where you measure sixteen times & cut once. NO SECOND CHANCES. My '64 & three other parts cars I have come out on straight out. I know for sure my '64 is original as I have NEVER replaced it & I've had the car since new. Why don't you just get a used one that works for now until you finally do the swap over??? Tom T.

The glove box is locked when the slot for the key is straight up & down, north & south. When it points east or west it's unlocked. Or that's the way it is on my '64 Riv. I've owned since new. Tom T.

Chip, Unfortunately I must dis-agree. I pulled the disc brakes off a '70 Estate wagon. When it was time to use the parts MANY yrs. later I removed the check valve in the booster & the old sound of air rushing in was VERY apparent. I couldn't believe myself that all the many yrs. later it held vacuum for that amount of time.,, I have a '64 Riv. in my side yard that I use for testing when I rebuild carbs. & distributors. After sitting all winter, approx. 6 months it always has vacuum in the booster. I'm totally surprised that it can hold vacuum for so long. I know that the '70 & '64 boosters are original to the cars. Not saying how long they would last IF used on a daily basis. Says something for original factory parts. Tom T.

AND, who's this Bob???? I could know him. Tom T.

Where did you get the insulation that's attached to the bottom of the dash pad???? That stuff looks original. Tom T.

Your local NAPA or auto parts store.

Whats that Seran Wrap??? covering them???

Something else I just thought of. Is the outlet for the vapor line in the end of the fuel filter have a smaller hole as a restriction???? It is not supposed to be the opening of the 1/4" hose. IF it's a china filter it MAY NOT have the restriction in it with the smaller inside diameter. That's the only thing I can think of. Flowing to much fuel back to the tank & when you plug it now has the pressure/volume the engine needs. Just another thought.

The return is ONLY on A/C quipped vehicles. I take it yours has A/C??? Take a fuel pump pressure test without & with the return line & report back. Also remove the main fuel line hose & take a volume test with & without. Tom T.

Remember the wider the spacer you use will MANDATE the use of longer studs. Myself I wouldn't use anything more than it takes to provide the clearance you need. Saying that I would feel comfortable with a 1/4"-1/2" spacer MAX. In reality I don't LIKE USING SPACERS AT ALL!!!! Now lets get into how the engineers who designed & spec'd & came up with what they did & the reasoning. I'm sure I may have forgotten a few things & the reasons for the engineering so please don't bash me too hard. With that being said lets continue. MOST ALL engineers designed wheel spacing with the center-line of the wheel, the front & rear, to be over the center-line of the inner wheel bearing in front & the rear axle bearing. That's the way the engineers designed them. Now we can deviant + or- from that SOME , BUT not to a great extent. The rear doesn't become as critical as the front. As MOST will know the inner front wheel bearing is MUCH larger than the outer wheel bearing. That's because the substantial weight of the front end is carried by the inner front wheel bearing. The further out you bring the front the MORE pressure is loaded to the outer front wheel bearing which was NEVER designed to take a substantial amount of the load of the heaviest part of the car which is the FRONT. It was just there to keep the assembly from falling off the car. Add something as thick as a 1" spacer or thicker (or very positive offset wheels) & you end up with what you see these kids running around with the tops of the wheel tilted in at the top SO FAR NEGATIVE CAMBER they look silly. Of course NEG. camber makes the car handle better around turns, BUT at the cost of tire wear, steering & riding comfort. WHY did, or most us, buy a Riv. for in the 1st. place??? It's NOT to have a corner carver, BUT a car that rides decently & handles fair taken into consideration it's size & bulk. AND, Buick did a damn fair job on the 1st. gen Rivs as far as riding comfort & handling abilities STOCK!!! Some of us want MORE than was designed in the car & make the nec. changes & adjustments nec. to accomplish what they are after. Some like the loose wallowing feeling of the original car's suspension & steering quality however they remember the original wishy washing handling. OR the diff. between Monroe shocks, some other cheapy shocks or KYB's or Bilstiens. Myself I have Koni shocks on my Riv. that were SPECIAL ORDERED in the late 60's & I'm pretty sure I'm the ONLY ONE to have Koni shocks on a 1st. gen Riv. I know because I bought my Riv. NEW!!! It was OK in my mind, BUT a damn sight better than a Mopar product or a Ford product of the time, especially the T-Bird. The Riv. in my mind was FAR SUPERIOR!!!! When going for wheels, mainly, you need to take & keep these engineering designs & considerations in the back of your head & follow them. I would be willing to bet MOST NEVER even have brought this to mind. We are not talking about Honda Civics or Toyota Corollas here. Just my dimes worth IF it's worth that much!!!! Tom T.

Boy, now were NIT-PICKING!!!! The size makes me HAPPY. This size was standard equipment on one of my customers '92 RoadMaster. Mine are the same TPC spec tire as the '92 And they have the whitewall I LIKE!!!! A pencil stripe about 1/2". With my Keystone's I feel the look is just righr for MY TASTES. Tom T.

Good answer Ed.

Yeah & if you get a used one it may work for awhile but sooner or later you will be going through the same thing in the future. Tom T.

I use 225/70/15 on my '64 Riv. The tires rub so very slightly against the frame to wear you don't even notice. My rims are 6" but are Keystone CustoMags that I purchased in '73 & they ALSO allowed me to install disc brakes with no wheel mods. Tom T..

I optioned for front Discs in my '66 Mustang. Tom T.

AND, WITHOUT A DOUBT TRULY WORTH ANY PROVENANCE IT GATHERS & RIGHTFULLY SO!!!!! Tom T.

supposedly there was a one off '65 Riv.GS. It had a special paint code???

Do not pull or re-install. Do trans. also. Send a PM & we could talk. Tom T.

Undoubtedly. BUT everyone to their own.

Remove grille. It's not that hard really. Argent silver is the color. Eastwood sells what you need in a spray can. Tom T.

MANY people also paint them black. Black seems to not clash & brings out the cars paint better on some cars/colors. EVERYONE to there own. It's YOUR car so do what pleases you & your personal tastes.