BASSMAN59

Thanks Tom - yes this is numbers matching block hence wanting to proceed carefully. Sonic testing I agree is an absolute must and I've had a few suggestions of wall thickness being around 0.200 but believe this is more for rodders. Thanks for your dimensional input - after confirming sonic testing this week I'll make a final decision but am leaning toward Pat and Ronnie's suggestion of maintaining the current .060 by sleeving the worn cylinder only. With a 401 .060 over being around 412cu displacement I don't think picking up an additional 13cu by boring standard 425's is worth any risk. Especially with AUS dollars being a little like Monopoly money these days the cost of replacing the engine out of the US would be unthinkable.

Thanks DQ - appreciate the feedback.

Seeking opinions please from the wider community on my '65 Riv 401 rebuild. The car was owned by a USA ROA member for many years before immigration to AUS in 2012. Engine running seemingly ok but marking it's territory on my garage floor through the rear main. With compression down in 3 cylinders (3/7/8 with 8 down to 110) the engine has been pulled for rebuild. It seems the previous owner already had it bored .060 over and cylinder 8 is worn near .070 near the top of the bore. The block casting 1364705 shows as being 401/425 however I'm reliably informed this is an outer casting number and was never to be bored as a 425. I've had a number of educated opinions on the way forward; 1. Sleeve all cylinders back to standard bore. (cost of sleeves + all pistons/rings need replacement. My gut tells me no but I'll consider your opinions) 2. Sleeve only cylinder 8 back to .060 (less cost and use existing .060 pistons with new rings. Least favorite option but cost effective) 3. Bore all cylinders to .070 over and replace pistons with custom made. (no sleeve cost but customer pistons/rings potentially expensive and bore wall thickness query) The car is essentially a Sunday driver and occasional highway use to interstate club meets. My current thinking is option 3 but I'd need sonic testing and would seek knowledge/opinions on what would be considered adequate bore wall thickness with leaving a healthy safety margin. Once again appreciate input as you good people have time. Cheers Dave

Thanks for the replies - much appreciated! The car is completely original and while I enjoy the thrill of the chase I do hear what you're saying. Incidentally Clarks have agreed to stitch my supplied carpet to their seat covers if I decide to go that route and I'd do the door trims and kick boards at the same time.

My first post here. I'm finally getting to replace the carpet in my 65 and am not really happy with anything I've seen so far. The car has the dark green carpet with green interior and I've taken a small sample from under the drivers seat for a colour / quality match. So far I've had samples from Clark's, OPGI, Trim Parts and ACC. Nothing comes even remotely close in colour to the original and only the Trim Parts sample comes close to the weight of the original 80/20. I really like the idea of the molded option. I had one supplier suggest just buy theirs and have it dyed. Surely I must be able to do better than that! Anybody have any sources or ideas ?