DaveC6970

Thanks for the tip John, I checked it out. I like that it’s a lower pressure switch that allows the brake lights to come on sooner. I probably go this route if cleaning my current switch doesn’t work. Thanks Chris, I’m going to give this a try today.

Thanks Jan, I appreciate the link! Thanks Tom! I thought I might try this before buying a new one. Guessing this will require bleeding the brake again as well?

So I just replaced the master cylinder on my 63 and now I have brakes again which is nice. But, I reused the old brake light switch and now, no brake lights. Is it possible I damaged the switch removing and reinstalling it? In hindsight I should have just replaced the switch when I replaced the master cylinder but never thought it would be an issue. Also, is there a preferred replacement part? Thanks for the help! Dave

Thanks guys, now I have some new leads to check!

Hello, I have a brake issue I was hoping someone may have some experience/insight with, I searched the forum and my service manual and haven’t had any luck. When I apply the brakes on my 63 everything works normally and I initially have plenty of boosted brake. Once slowed the pedal will quickly drop away from my foot and the car begins to roll, so I panic jam the pedal and the car stops again. I assumed since I was losing boost it was a vacuum issue so, based on some forum answers, I replaced the vacuum hoses from the manifold to the brake booster and one from the reservoir to booster. This did not help but I’ll keep checking for vacuum leaks. Maybe an internal booster leak? Would a bad check valve on the manifold line cause an issue like this? Also, I did check for brake fluid leaks and could not find any, but this might be a master cylinder issue? I have zero experience with a bad master cylinder so I wouldn’t know. Any ideas or advice is appreciated, Thanks! Dave

Here’s a shot of my car with the factory Turbine covers and the 18” wheels I have on it now. I like it both ways...but a set of skylark wires would be my holy grail! -Dave

I’m with steeleman, I like the black ones. I guess I’m like some women (and men) with shoes, I don’t think you can have to many sets of wheels. I still want a set of Supremes with whitewalls for when that mood strikes....

I started looking into 15” wheels, even bought a few different types, but ended up returning them when they didn’t fit. The issue with 15” aftermarket wheels is the backspacing, most of them have too much backspace to clear those finned brake drums. I could have made them work with spacers but didn’t want to go that route. The 18’s I just put on my car were a decent compromise I think. They clear the brake drums and still allow for a reasonable tire sidewall. The ride is firmer but the shorter coils probably have as much to do with that as the tires do. I still have my original wheels with turbine wheel covers when I want a stock look/ride.

Thanks Bernie! 225/50 R18 front, 235/55 R18 rear, Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 through Tire Rack. Its on 2” drop springs from Coil Spring Specialties. 18x7 w/4.25 backspace front, 18x8 w/4.5 backspace rear. centerbore was 87mm to clear the 3.375 hubs. Almost went with 18x9 rears but the backspace went to 5.25 and space for the exhaust is tight enough. These are 1 piece cast wheels so I couldn’t choose the offsets. Its been mentioned on the forum before, but if you go the billet route and choose your offset, you could get a wide wheel under the back. Hope this helps -Dave

No rubbing issues, but the fronts while wider than stock, are also shorter than stock tires so that may help.

Finally, after 4 years, I found a set of wheels that I like and more importantly fit. They are American Legend Racer wheels, 18x7 front, 18x8 rear. I ordered them directly from the manufacturer and they were nice enough to open up the center bore for me. I almost went with the full polished version but decided the gray centered would look good with the silver paint. I have no affiliation with them, but great folks to work with and wheels were reasonably priced. -Dave

You guys may have already seen these but while looking for wheels for my car look what I found. US Mag is making plus size road wheels. I'm thinking a set of 18" would look pretty sweet. No price is shown so I'm betting the per wheel price may scare me off.

Bob, I would say it rides firmer but in no way bad. I did have to cut down the snubbers in the front so the suspension would have some extra travel. I can't speak to the wear because I haven't driven it enough to really tell. The alignment shop had no trouble aligning the front end so the change must not be too dramatic. The slightly firmer ride is worth it to me, it was always a cool car, but now it's cool with a bit of attitude...

Here's a pic of my Riv with the 2" drop springs installed. Still haven't decided on wheels yet, but it looks pretty cool with the turbine wheel covers.

Maybe a little late to the discussion, but would either the KYB's or Bilstien's work in a lowered application? I'm installing my coil spring specialties 2" drop springs and seems like replacing the shocks would be a good idea. -Thanks Dave