DaveC6970

Thanks for the tip John, I checked it out. I like that it’s a lower pressure switch that allows the brake lights to come on sooner. I probably go this route if cleaning my current switch doesn’t work. Thanks Chris, I’m going to give this a try today.

Thanks Jan, I appreciate the link! Thanks Tom! I thought I might try this before buying a new one. Guessing this will require bleeding the brake again as well?

So I just replaced the master cylinder on my 63 and now I have brakes again which is nice. But, I reused the old brake light switch and now, no brake lights. Is it possible I damaged the switch removing and reinstalling it? In hindsight I should have just replaced the switch when I replaced the master cylinder but never thought it would be an issue. Also, is there a preferred replacement part? Thanks for the help! Dave

Thanks guys, now I have some new leads to check!

Hello, I have a brake issue I was hoping someone may have some experience/insight with, I searched the forum and my service manual and haven’t had any luck. When I apply the brakes on my 63 everything works normally and I initially have plenty of boosted brake. Once slowed the pedal will quickly drop away from my foot and the car begins to roll, so I panic jam the pedal and the car stops again. I assumed since I was losing boost it was a vacuum issue so, based on some forum answers, I replaced the vacuum hoses from the manifold to the brake booster and one from the reservoir to booster. This did not help but I’ll keep checking for vacuum leaks. Maybe an internal booster leak? Would a bad check valve on the manifold line cause an issue like this? Also, I did check for brake fluid leaks and could not find any, but this might be a master cylinder issue? I have zero experience with a bad master cylinder so I wouldn’t know. Any ideas or advice is appreciated, Thanks! Dave

Here’s a shot of my car with the factory Turbine covers and the 18” wheels I have on it now. I like it both ways...but a set of skylark wires would be my holy grail! -Dave

I’m with steeleman, I like the black ones. I guess I’m like some women (and men) with shoes, I don’t think you can have to many sets of wheels. I still want a set of Supremes with whitewalls for when that mood strikes....

I started looking into 15” wheels, even bought a few different types, but ended up returning them when they didn’t fit. The issue with 15” aftermarket wheels is the backspacing, most of them have too much backspace to clear those finned brake drums. I could have made them work with spacers but didn’t want to go that route. The 18’s I just put on my car were a decent compromise I think. They clear the brake drums and still allow for a reasonable tire sidewall. The ride is firmer but the shorter coils probably have as much to do with that as the tires do. I still have my original wheels with turbine wheel covers when I want a stock look/ride.

Thanks Bernie! 225/50 R18 front, 235/55 R18 rear, Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 through Tire Rack. Its on 2” drop springs from Coil Spring Specialties. 18x7 w/4.25 backspace front, 18x8 w/4.5 backspace rear. centerbore was 87mm to clear the 3.375 hubs. Almost went with 18x9 rears but the backspace went to 5.25 and space for the exhaust is tight enough. These are 1 piece cast wheels so I couldn’t choose the offsets. Its been mentioned on the forum before, but if you go the billet route and choose your offset, you could get a wide wheel under the back. Hope this helps -Dave

No rubbing issues, but the fronts while wider than stock, are also shorter than stock tires so that may help.

Finally, after 4 years, I found a set of wheels that I like and more importantly fit. They are American Legend Racer wheels, 18x7 front, 18x8 rear. I ordered them directly from the manufacturer and they were nice enough to open up the center bore for me. I almost went with the full polished version but decided the gray centered would look good with the silver paint. I have no affiliation with them, but great folks to work with and wheels were reasonably priced. -Dave

You guys may have already seen these but while looking for wheels for my car look what I found. US Mag is making plus size road wheels. I'm thinking a set of 18" would look pretty sweet. No price is shown so I'm betting the per wheel price may scare me off.

Bob, I would say it rides firmer but in no way bad. I did have to cut down the snubbers in the front so the suspension would have some extra travel. I can't speak to the wear because I haven't driven it enough to really tell. The alignment shop had no trouble aligning the front end so the change must not be too dramatic. The slightly firmer ride is worth it to me, it was always a cool car, but now it's cool with a bit of attitude...

Here's a pic of my Riv with the 2" drop springs installed. Still haven't decided on wheels yet, but it looks pretty cool with the turbine wheel covers.

Maybe a little late to the discussion, but would either the KYB's or Bilstien's work in a lowered application? I'm installing my coil spring specialties 2" drop springs and seems like replacing the shocks would be a good idea. -Thanks Dave

Saw this on local Craigslist thought for sure someone might be interested. https://dayton.craigslist.org/wto/6057361982.html

I've got one too so that's 4. Silver with silver leather and lots of options.

Thought I'd post the results of my highly technical washer mockup. It looks like a .500 spacer will give me the brake drum clearance and allow space to the fender lip. So now all I need to find is a .500 spacer that has 3.375 or larger center bore. And of course the longer studs. I haven't tried the fronts yet, I'm guessing I'll need the same spacer there too. -Dave

I did go buy a box of washers so I can stack them on the studs and see what the ideal spacing needs to be. Hopefully not too thick, but it sounds like an inch or less should be ok. Cstang, you're 1" spacers, are they the adapter type with their own studs? or just a spacer? Also, where did you get them? Thanks again guys for the help! -Dave

Thats the plan, no slammed airbag setup but maybe a couple inches. I want to get the wheels on before I decide on the drop. Also, thanks for the tip on the adapters. I've been considering that route as well but they all seem to be 1.25" thick minimum. I'm pretty sure the wheel/tire will rub the body at that width. I'm thinking the ideal spacer will be .625" thick, haven't found one yet that thickness. Might have to have it custom made. -Dave

Thanks guys for the responses. Steve is correct, I believe a 17" wheel would solve this problem. Nothing against them, I just wasn't looking to run 17" wheels. My concern now is after adding a spacer the tires will rub the inner fender. The non-finned brake drums that Ed linked might help, but at $120 each I may just rethink these 15" wheels. I guess I could run 7" wide wheels on back too, but I'd rather not. You can see it the picture, that 8" wheel is killer IMHO. You know the funny part is if you go to the American Racing website, the wheel selector gives you this wheel for a 63' Riviera. I'm guessing it's only checking bolt pattern, not hub bore or anything else. All things considered, I'm thinking Steve has thing right. Go the billet route and get your exact width, offset. Avoid all this spacer, stud stuff. If I remember correctly, they even opened up the center bore didn't they Steve? -Dave

I was hoping you guys running aftermarket wheels might have a suggestion for an issue I'm having. I have been going round and round with wheel ideas for my 63' and finally went with American Racing TTO's, the torque thrusts wheels with the straight spokes. I wanted to stay with a period look so my wheels are 15x7 for the front and 15x8.5 rears. I have read all the threads about the wheel spacers, longer studs that may be needed to run custom wheels, but I have ran into something I haven't seen mentioned. My rear wheels are hitting the fins on the rear drums before I'm even close to the mounting surface. There's about a .500 gap between the wheel mounting and brake drum surface. The backspacing on the 15x8.5 wheel 3.75 and is the same for the 15x7, narrower wheel doesn't help. So my plan is a .625 billet spacer and longer studs. I'm not crazy about the big spacer but I'm thinking my options are few. Am I missing something, is there a non-finned brake drum out there I could use? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks -Dave

Hi Ed, Initially that was my thought too. I was going to go with American Racing TTO's, the torque thrust with the straight spokes not curved like the torque thrust D. Also considered a set of 5 spoke supremes with skinny white walls. While I like the look of both wheels I thought I would try something different, something I don't believe I have ever seen. Kind of like what you said Halibrands were more a true racing wheel. Maybe what a Indy car owner might put on his personal car back in the early 60's. Plus they're made in the USA and will drill them any bolt pattern. I spoke with the owner at the GNRS in Pomona and he even offered to open up the center bore hole so no spacers are needed. -Dave

Mitch, thanks for the tip. I was thinking a little lubricant might not be a bad thing Steve, thanks for the wheel info. The wheels I've been looking at have that same backspace only a 15x8. I'm trying to get a period vibe so I'm looking at a Halibrand style wheel like the image attached. What do you think? -Dave

Once again you guys were right. I wrapped the spinner in a towel so I could get a get a grip against the sharp edges. Yanked a few times and off it came. I posted a pic below, you can see the "L" on the ends of the studs so they have never been changed. Hey Steelman, if you don't mind, how wide are your back wheels and what is the offset? I'm thinking of a set of period mags as an alternate set of wheels and wondering how big I can fit under there. Thanks again -Dave