hidden_hunter

I haven’t looked at the Buick shop manual recently, but the cad’s of the vintage has the procedure for aligning everything, though from memory its a bit of a choose your own adventure where you have to find the first component then at the end it will tell you what to do next

I assume it’s a valve that’s dampened or something which would adjust air/fuel ratio.

The museum in Sinsheim has a number of Mercedes from high ranking Nazi's, which was interesting (and a bit morbid) - the museum is worth checking out for people that find themselves in that part of the world lots of cool cars and aircraft (though it was stinking hot the day we were there)

How many vehicles can people identify in this picture circa 1925 in Melbourne Australia, Looks like possibly a 1924 buick heading towards the train station

I’ve not come across anything of that vintage for caddy for sale, mostly just sales books and manuals

There was another president offered for sale about 7 years ago, I think it was out of Queensland - we inquired about it but from memory there were a few things that didn't quite add up

Our state actually has definitions for it (that as far as I'm aware have not changed for a very long time) and it also changes the type of number plate you get (as well as not requiring a front plate) A club permit can be issued to the vehicles in the following categories: veteran vehicles – manufactured before 1 January 1919 vintage vehicles – manufactured after 31 December 1918 and before 1 January 1931 classic and historic vehicles - manufactured after 31 December 1930, but more than 25 years before the date of the application for a club permit.

Agree, I've taken high resolution scans of all of my Cadillac literature that I could (without damaging it)

i suspect it's because most stores don't carry much spare because it's so bulky, so it only took a few people to start hoarding it to cause problems

Here in Australia, I’ve been with Shannon’s for a couple of years and no complaints. Pretty reasonably priced, something like $150 per year with $20m liability (which is standard for pretty much every policy here)

So the pilot light staying on is because the can is stuffed (i've had two do the same thing) and found a number of people reporting the same failures. I might try a 12v can and see if it will work - i opened up one of my dead cans and it was actually rated to 240v

I test drove an X3 on the weekend, it drove pretty much the same as my 1 series hatchback for regular driving - but was considerably quicker

Straight off the battery and it’s still happens (both power and ground) ive noticed they pilot light is on permanently now as well - maybe something is connected wrong? Seems very strange it works fine when the cars not running

I’ve got the day off work today so Ill give it a shot and report back

I've got the can grounded to the body via a bolt through the fire wall, or is it possible that the lights are the issue? We did a couple of measurements yesterday and saw the occasionally reading on AC - the flasher can its self seems to have a good connection with a good ground so I'm wondering if it's just the quality of the power isn't good enough for the electric flasher. Is there any easy way to smooth out or filter the input power?

Not a huge surprise, since they ceased local manufacture of a niche product they basically made products that weren't class leaders in anything (price, quality, features etc)

Dropped the oil pan, double checked the bearings and the caps tightness - couldn't find anything amiss. Inspected everything I could see (including using a boroscope) and couldn't find anything that looked out of place (including the bores) About all I found was a head bolt that I didnt' really like the tightness on so replaced that. The oil was a bit fuel contaminated (it had been in the car for many failed starts) but there was no sign of metal in it or on the cheese grater filter. Nothing seems out of place, the oil pressure is good and its running well my theory is that it's the new top cover finding it's 'home' on my camshaft. I'll monitor it for now to see if it gets better/worse and report back Newest problem (see other thread) is that the indicators flash when the car is off but are solid when the motor is running....

Hey guys, Bit of a weird one with my 1922 Cadillac that has us stumped. I have LED turn signals (from Snyder’s) and a 6v positive ground electronic flasher, which work perfectly when the car is on battery. As soon as the engine is running they stay solid (with occasional flickering) but do not flash. Turn the motor off and they go back to flashing properly Im thinking that the power is dirty or fluctuatating too much but not really sure how to test it or fix it. I tried adding a load resistor that you would normally use with a thermal flashing can and had the same result Any ideas would be welcome?

One thing I find fascinating is that we have threads on here where people are bemoaning the lack of interest from young people then on the other hand there are people that expect to be making 1000% profit just because they held onto it (thankfully not so much here) and didnt' even really look after it. There is definitely a sense that there was a golden age where most parts were available for reasonable prices, but realistically how many buyers are there going to be for say a 1922 Cadillac engine part? There's only a handful of them running, yet you see parts on ebay where people expect to make huge amount of money and they sit their literally for years not selling and when you make an offer the price is "firm" Rare != valuable

When I did them in my Cadillac I just did them up until tight and then either nudged them slightly forward or back to get it to line up with a hole

The early 20's (Type 57, 61 and v63) are amongst the cheapest prewar cads you can buy - though they are not cheap parts wise.... (which may have something to do with the low purchase price)

I keep a set of spare ignition parts under the drivers seat so I always know where they are

I went looking for the guy, was Hans or something like that but I also came across this https://www.prewarcar.com/288965-cadillac-v8-1922-engine complete engine but incredibly steep price

Dick Shappy https://www.classiccars.ws/ might be able to help you out, I don't have much luck when I email him but others say calling him gets results What body style is your type 61? Mine's a 5 passenger coupe

Hi fellow Type 61 owner! I’ve never come across a spare water pump, is yours missing or damaged? Some of the other guys might know but the v63 pump might be interchangeable as well