Michael J. Barnes

Stewbud, Here are some suggestions. 1. Go to the AACA forum "Cars for sale." 2. Pick an appropriate headline that is not your name. 3. Post good pictures. 4. State your price. Good luck, Mike Barnes, owner of a 1924 Cadillac V63 touring Vancouver

For comparison, the 1924 Cadillac, with an 83 hp V8, offered three rear end ratios: 4.91:1, or 4.5:1, or the high speed 4:15 to 1. I have driven my car with the low gearing and now the middle. I have wondered about the stated ratio for the Hudson, because it would require reverse and first to be VERY low geared — just to drive slowly — and then what would second look like? These cars need to be geared down from third to second going up hills. If the Hudson gearing made second as fast as my third, then the car would be underpowered in second, and the driver would have to shift to first to go uphill. But first would be very slow! A four-speed transmission would solve this, I suppose.

I had exactly this problem with my 1924, and it proved to be a weak fuel pump. The engine was simply starved for fuel when I hit the gas, though the car would idle all day just fine. I replaced the fuel pump and the problem went away. Took me months, but then I am a very slow mechanic. It is true that fuel was being delivered with the old fuel pump, but apparently not enough to make the engine rev up. Good luck. Mike in Vancouver.

I do not mean disrespect, and I value the advice and technical information provided by helpful folks here! What is nagging at me is the fact that my four inch adjusting screw was tightened in fully three inches: the spring was nearly fully compressed. And that with brake pad material that measures very close to 1/4 inch now (except in some uneven worn patches). I didn’t say it here, but I am wondering if my brake bands are the wrong size — a bit too big. It is only these weird (to me) factors that would make me wonder if I should choose something other than the correct specs. Apologies for seeming to sound dismissive in the face of kindness.

Much appreciated! Material on there now measures around 1/4 at the ends. I am inclined to ignore the manual and install 5/16” given I can draw the nut 3 inches tight along the adjusting screw. Or am I not thinking of a downside here?

I will answer my own topic for the curious. The big flat nut has flanges: to tighten it you place a screwdriver against one of the flanges and tap it around. The nut is split: it tightens on itself. So I tapped it half way round and that brought the tightening screw to the top. It feels tight already, yet not so tight I cannot turn the nut. There is very little access here. Clutch shaft is directly above, and there is only a little clearance to the tranny wall. So only at a very specific angle is it possible to place a screwdriver against the clamp screw and tighten it effectively. And the clutch can only be tightened in more or less exact one rotation increments. VERY IMPORTANT: There is a drain hole under the flywheel. As soon as I scraped it clean, lots of oil began to drip out. This has probably been lubricating my clutch. I have used a 2x4 to hold the pedal down. Next I will squirt gasoline onto the leather, then neatsfoot oil or some modern equivalent. Manual says clutch pedal should never be pressed down farther than necessary. Makes sense given that only half an inch or so of clutch movement should be necessary to completely separate clutch from flywheel. Oh the Dodge brothers! Those tightenable split nuts are also their way of holding the rear wheels on the cars.

There is a diagram in the early manual, and instructions indicate the clutch can be tightened by turning a large nut against the clutch spring. But before that, there is a clamp screw to loosen. That I cannot locate, and the manual isn’t helpful. Has anybody got experience with this? There is a lot of grease down below in that region too, which I am pretty sure should not be the case, probably because the drain hole was plugged solid, and lubricant has been accumulating (even leaking in from the tranny side, seems to me possible). Thanks, Mike, Vancouver

Drums were only twelves inches in this early year. I want to reline the service brake. Thickness measures around 1/4 inch even at the fairly unworn ends: does anybody know what it SHOULD be? Thanks, Mike, Vancouver

Oil is beginning to leak — speeding up — around the rear passenger wheel. The shaft looks easy to pull. Can anybody tell me what seals to expect, and where? That is, near the wheel, or inside near the differential? Also, has anybody fitted newer, better seals? If so I would love to hear about your retrofit. Thanks, Mike, Canada

As Carl writes, there were two horn styles. First was short and mounted at the front of the engine; both Carl’s and my V63 touring cars are the first model, and have that horn. Second type horn was longer and fitted above the carburetor. It was, in fact, bolted to the horseshoe-shaped carb heater and requires a bracket. Do you know which type is right for your car? I believe I have a spare of the second type. There is a contact in New Zealand you should know about. If we can figure out how to private message, I will send it to you.

Russell: See the first posting, which gives the direct link to the hosting seller site: Kijiji. Because of the weak Canadian dollar compared to the U.S., the car seems a bargain to Americans. But it would not be an easy sale in Canada. These closed cars don’t generate a lot of excitement. The RM mat may indicate it was bought at an auction there, or somebody attempted to sell it at auction. The nickel era, it has been said before, does not attract a lot of purchasers. Even the touring (I have one) might not sell for a lot higher in Canada. But I agree this seems to be an attractively restored car.

Harold: Yes please send a pic.