hidden_hunter

That's neat and pretty reasonably priced for such a niche item, might get one and run it off the back of the cigar lighter in the cad. Any idea on how 'dirty' the power is and if it would cause issues - I haven't had much luck with LED flasher cans and I'm assuming it's because there is fluctuations

Even the 8's aren't cheap, certain 8cyl share caps with Duesenbergs which I suspect pushes up the price rather than lower it from the Duesenbergs!

What accessories are you thinking you'll need to run? If you've converted your lights to LED's, adding a phone charger or something like that would probably still be way under what the original draw would have been

I dunno about you guys but I do all of the work myself and I think some of the numbers being thrown about are more than reasonable that would allow you to get it to a good driving car. If I had the space (and didn't already have a car) it would have been a contender for me

Really exciting project, can’t wait to see it progress

Some very specific titles that I’m not surprised are being discontinued

Car was nice and pleasant when I got in it...

Merry Christmas from the land down under... which is currently literally melting https://www.abc.net.au/news/2019-12-19/catastrophic-fire-conditions-forecast-in-sa-as-temperatures-soar/11815346?pfmredir=sm We're going for 110f today, not looking forward to the drive home with black leather seats 😐

I bought a radiator cap that came with a motometer, which was very tired. I ended up using it as a practice one so I knew how to repair one of my good ones, turns out someone had replaced the inner glass with a clear biro! The bottom was intact, so I'm guessing they wedged it in from the top, the stuff at the bottom is very difficult to remove even with a drill mostly because it's quite hard to hold the motormeter's body while you're working. I got the base out but the motormeter body broke up in to several pieces (no loss, it was already damaged). The main thing is be super careful if you're attempting it, and be aware you could break the body.

Theyre factory rhd and being sold at Holden dealers - who have not had a performance car to compete with ford since they stopped making the commodore

Also going to be available in RHD! Supposedly dealers are already attempting to price gouge

has anyone contacted them to see if they have a US distributor?

Pretty much, my cad's v8 (I think it's 312 cu from memory) starts almost instantly with 6v - about the only time it doesn't start is if you hesitate and take your foot off the starter prematurely. It's got a good battery, rebuilt starter and rewired.

Does Amazon ship it over there? https://www.amazon.com.au/Altronics-ANBI-Switch-Battery-Isolator/dp/B07L8KZDFD/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=anbi+switch&qid=1575755705&sr=8-1 I would also suggest messaging some of the ebay sellers, ebay's postage calculators are normally pretty exorbitant. The same happens for us when we use US ebay, and normally if you contact the seller you can get something a lot more reasonable You could also try messaging them https://www.anbiswitch.com.au/enquiries to see if there is a US distributor The Australian $ is pretty much back to being the pacific peso at the moment, AUD$50 = US$35 so when you're looking at prices factor that in. Shipping in Australia is typically pretty expensive, you'd be looking at about US$15 to ship that switch to the US if you use Australia Post (which most people would). The other option is to use a package forwarding place, which are reasonably common to use here but I suspect not so much in the US. Typically you pay a small handling fee (normally about $5) + the actual postage cost. If you don't have much luck, I could probably do it in a pinch - I just couldn't guarantee when I could get to the post office to send it as I'm away for work for a bit in the next couple of weeks

Seems sturdy enough, it has double sided tape to fix the main housing to the battery

It's an ANBI switch https://www.anbiswitch.com.au/how-it-works https://www.anbiswitch.com.au/cars I replaced the nuts with imperial size so I didnt' have a bunch of metric on my car I also like the fact it's really easy to see if it's on or off, some of the designs are quite hard to see at a glance if it's connected. It works well in combination with the fuel cut off that I have on my car (it's independently switched as well) but it gives that extra piece of mind.

I'll see if I can find a brand marking on it, I checked the website of the place I bought it from and they don't seem to have it listed (they only have their core products)

The one I bought was specifically for vintage cars (and referenced 6v cars) and it was considerably more solid that any of the others. All of the electrical connection is encased and you push in to enable and pull out to disable - very simple and quick to do if you needed to do it in a hurry was about $50 and made in Australia

wildlife doesn't care where it is

Absolute morons, they're on public roads doing nearly 200mph where people would be expecting them to be at most doing less than half of that - incredibly dangerous if you're not anticipating someone could be doing that (at least on an autobahn you know to expect it)

The brakes on my Cadillac are certainly acceptable at low suburban streets when you come up to a curve or a stop sign, where they're not great is when some idiot pulls out in front of you. Mine are 'reasonably' well adjusted now but certainly didn't start out that way (the book is also quite confusing about how to adjust it and without it I have no idea how you would do it), they slow down the car, hold it on a hill and lock up if you jump on them (and they don't pull at all) so in terms of expectations I'm not quite sure what else you would want from a car with rear wheel brakes and weighs the best part of 5000lbs

The v63 book is actually an updated type 61 book so has more “modern” processes

I agree, the books for my car are far more plentiful than the actual cars are so I’m very surprised when people don’t have it. My car certainly isn’t back to how it would have driven from the factory but I’ve got all the original systems working again and rewired to make it somewhat less of a fire hazard (the insulator was literally falling off) GM had pretty good documentation (both the cad and Buick) that tell you how to do most stuff and what tasks you should perform at set mileage. Occasionally it will offer crap advice like “remove item” and not tell you you actually needed a special tool. I also find the reading maintenance books from the time period helpful as terminology has changed as well for some things and they tend to describe things in more detail

Buick the australian story is a fantastic read and well worth picking up

good luck symbol in certain cultures, which shows up from time to time on pre 1932 stuff