hidden_hunter

That's practically a highway in some parts of the UK, we got "upgraded" to a Volvo SUV on our last trip and there were roads where the only pavement was between the wheels...

We don't make a distinction, its our families car (including our kids)

They have a good channel with some quite in depth repairs on things showing how it used to be done

I'd need to check in the mornign but I think that's what's on my 22 cadillac and they weren't cheap...

28mph seems a bit low to be a sweet spot, I would have thought something in the thirties would have been achievable At 35-40 mph in my car you can still carry on a conversation without difficulty

Not sure about that, it was passed in (e.g. didn’t sell)

Wasn’t that long ago we still made them, less said about GM’s handling of Holden the better

My book only goes as far back at the type 59 and shows that it’s not an interchange part having said that it could just be because the ratios were different but it looks like the type 61 and 63 have a few additional bits too them (doesn’t mean the gear itself doesn’t just drop on)

There were 3 ratio's offered on the type 61's, the bulk of which at least from the build sheets I've seen are "std" and "low" with mine the only one listed on the page as "high" - having said that I'm dubious about if that's what's in my car today or if it does if it's not actually refering to the ratio as my car will sit on 50mph no problem all day long

Guys come on, perhaps Cadillac LaSalle (whoever they are) did indeed make a "roaster" Personally I prefer BBQ but that's just me

Yeah he's just near Brisbane airport from memory

I ended up with tonnes of batteries over the years because half the time it's cheaper to buy a value pack with a battery and tool than just the skin (or like $20 more)

I got a little wand one that runs on 3 AA's for like 10 bucks from the auto part store and fits perfectly down the neck of the 20's cad (I don't want to attempt to remove any of the fittings on the tank)

Spent a bit more time going through it today, slowly getting there me thinks - the latest discovery was that the bypass screw was stuck 1/2" out so cleaned all that up today and reset it back to the factory setting for high test gasoline

Thanks to Johan, I now have the clip and am working through sorting out the carb Blowing through the fuel line it's shutting the fuel on/off and looks to have a movement of somewhere around 1/4" and more importantly no longer sticking

Timken 375's are available, just expensive Haven't used these guys but there is a pack with the bearing and race https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/roller-bearing/tapered/375-3720-timken I bought mine off these guys https://bepltd.com/products/375-3720-50-8x93-26x26-99mm-timken-tapered-roller-bearing Don't bother ordering off amazon, they cancelled my order after like 6 weeks

I managed to buy new Timken's for my 1922, you need to do a bit of hunting for the # number (they should be stamped on it) and make sure you double check the measurements

the v63 had 4 wheel brakes in 1923, buick by 25 so they were becoming common place

End of the day it's also an ad trying to sell you a Cadillac I guess, so possibly not the most honest source but prewar advertising seems to be a lot more reliant on specifications and comparisons than post war stuff

Found this old article while browsing the news paper archives and thought it might be of interest to people as a comparison point - I've transcribed the article because it was pretty hard to make out. What's wild is that the 1922 Cadillac had 'good' brakes for the period and shows how much of a difference hydraulic brakes actually made (and what a working braking system should achieve) Cadillac Tests Show Brake Progress That the driving reactions of the average motorist have not kept pace with the vast improvements in braking efficiency achieved during recent years is indicated by comparative data compiled by My Don Ahrens. general sales mnager of the Cadillac Motor Car Co. The starting advance in the efficiency of car braking systems is show in the following table which compares the time and distance required to sop a 1922 Cadillac V-8 which employed two wheel brakes and a 1936 Cadillac series 60 V-8 which has special hydraulic four wheel brakes 1922 CADILLAC V-8 Speed Time Distance 20 mph 2.44 sec 36 ft 30 mph 3.67 sec 81 ft 40 mph 4.3 sec 114 ft 50 mph 6.11 sec 224 ft 1936 CADILLAC SERIES 60 V-8 Speed Time Distance 20 mph 1.17 sec 17 ft 30 mph 1.74 sec 38 ft 40 mph 2.34 sec 68 ft 50 mph 2.93 sec 107 ft The figures do not include the reaction time of the driver the period during which he is responding to the signal to use the brake and actually placing them in operation

It's pretty much an instant total here because anything that involves cutting the roof structure requires an engineers certificate to re-register the car which for most cars people aren't going to bother It's also why you see cars totalled in Victoria and show up in Queensland where they don't require it (you also have to legally declare it was a write off in Victoria and the cars are pretty much impossible to register anywhere else but Queensland)

Hi Matt, I'm a little skeptical given how few of these cars are actually around and I don't believe we've crossed paths yet? Ehat have you got in the way of carb parts? you should be able to post pictures here to the forum even though you can't PM yet

Good idea, I haven't seen anyone running an electric pump on these cars that hasn't had trouble - the original pump (both driven and hand) is very capable 2.5 lbs is pretty high for these things, from memory the bleed is set to 3 from factory - at around 50mph mine sits on just shy of 2lbs

What type 61 parts do you have?

"MG" here is just rebranded SIAC and dumped in the thousands in rental yards - they feel like a 30 year old car that has 200k miles on it after 5k miles