hidden_hunter

later distributors fit and are steel bodied rather than pot metal so most people change over to those

Looks like maybe a part that changed on the v63, my type 61 tubes are brass. Maybe take some pictures of the caps that screw into the distributor, will help narrow down the exact fit.

Remember folks: vote early, vote often

I try and get a copy of whatever I can for the cad, they had 6 editions of the manual for the type 61 and the best information is actually in the the v63 manual

The filler looks like it would be wrong angle for the Type 61, it looks like it would interfere with the tyre carrier

Occasionally on fleabay the earlier type 61 gauge shows up which has amps, fuel and oil - they're all individual pieces that you could separate the fuel one on The book says you need 1lbs to start, I don't find I need anywhere near that to get it to start (maybe 1/2 lbs) and the regulator once it was all cleaned maintains the pressure flawlessly

That sucks, looks like there have been more than a few attempts here on the forum to others as well My now wife lived in Doncaster East when we first started dating, shame I didn’t see your cars driving around!

Seems really cheap for something that's got quite an interesting motor in it

The motor looks to have a very similar setup to the cads of the period, is there a connection at all or is it just that was the way things were done?

22 gallon fuel tank seems unusually large as well

neat little tool

Normally not much of an issue, the only gotcha is that quite often things will be packed in an oversized USPS box that costs like $20 to ship domestically but $120 to ship internationally (the 12x12" boxes for instance)

Number one thing is to find a copy of the shop manual for it so you have instructions on how to perform maintenance (if you're doing it yourself)

My car supposedly sat as a display, so my pedals were worn but when we cracked open the motor everything appears to have never been touched (including the original rings)

I’ve done a bit of driving around PA and never had any issue with sharing the road with the Amish (and I normally drive on the correct side of the road as well 😁) Driving in England, now that was an experience - particularly in the south west were you pretty much just have to get off the road into a bush if a tractor is coming. The rental car company ‘upgraded’ me to a Volvo XC90 which doesn’t seem that big here... France and Germany outside of the big cities seem to have much better roads

some very interesting designs there

Is it a starter/generator combination or a straight generator? First thing I would suggest doing is taking some pictures to post here before you start, so others can help chime in. First check with it off the vehicle would be does the generator turn by hand? I don't know the design of the westinghouse gens if there is a clutch of some sort on the front of the generator (the cadillacs of this vintage can only be turned on one end otherwise it just slips or has a lot of play in it) I would assume there is an inspection plate of some description, remove it and hopefully you can see the inner workings. What I would check next are the brushes to see if they're touching the commuter (the main copper part) as well as the commuter itself (it should be reasonably shiny copper) if it's dirty it can any number of things from exposed to the elements, high mica, ground, open circuit, brushes not making good contact etc.. See if you can see the condition of the insulation on the windings, that may have also started to break down depending on what coating they used and if its ever been replaced. If all of that looks good you can try tapping it on a battery to see if it spins (just tap it it on the top of the terminal rather than hooking it up in case there is something wrong inside the generator itself)

I'm glad in oz we just have a single national government system for it, got rid of most of this shonky stuff over night. Basically all you have to do is pay $3 to see if the vehicle has ever been in an accident and what financial interest there is in a car - if the seller of a vehicle provides you with a copy of the report you can also verify it for free.

I dunno what you guys are talking about

Have you done any diagnostic on it? Probably worth checking some basic things like the brushes and commuter before sending it off

Some times people just don't know the answer (e.g the title might be something generic and they open it up and it's not a vehicle they're familiar with) - I know that happens to me a lot

I'm of the age where computers and internet were just becoming common place when I went through elementary school and make a living off building and managing digital services, but to me computers/tablets are just a different medium for consuming information. I spent plenty of time as a kid reading those 'how things work' type books as a kid and as an adult spend plenty of reading about old stuff and fiddling with the car. When the next generation comes along I hope they enjoy tinkering as much as I have

I went through the entire engine of the 22 on the drive way (in hindsight should have removed the engine from the car would have made life easier) including replacing the rings, checking the bearings, servicing the valves and replacing the destroyed cam gear.

I don't know what it's like where you guys live but real estate prices in Melbourne makes it difficult for people to be able to afford space for a project (they have shot up significantly in the last 20 years)

I try to buy Australian made first, then from countries that share similar background (e.g US/Canada/UK/Europe etc) for my car stuff, I happily pay an extra couple of bucks if I know that there is likely things healthy and safety in place for the workers making the stuff. In terms of frustrations, my biggest frustration is dealers who advertise they have tonnes of parts for all years from like 1900-1942 but don't respond to calls/emails because yours isn't a year they're interested in even though they do actually have the parts (why bother advertising and waste peoples time) Also frustrating is shipping, either not shipping to Australia or ridiculously expensive postage charges (the amount of stuff I've got from US vendors where it's something small like a flasher can in a 1ft box that cost $40 to ship, where wrapping it a couple of times in bubble wrap and sticking in a satchel would have been fine for $15)