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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. I guess it depends on where you plan to drive and how much. I see a lot of Model Ts on the road and I’ve put a bit over 1500 miles on my Light Six since I finished restoring it in 2016 so if you recognize limitations, keep some following distance and maybe add a brake light bar you can enjoy driving these early cars. You sounded like you wanted a nice pre-war cruiser but you already have one. I enjoy driving my Light Six as much as my 1939 LaSalle but I do have more limitations in the Stude. If it an early Studebaker Touring car Is what you want then don’t let those limitations hold you back. They are nice cars and a lot of fun to drive. My advice is just post your location and see if someone nearby will give you a ride or let you drive their car to see if it’s a good fit. Lots of kind Studebaker owners in every state. I don’t know why people (including me) don’t ask around to experience a particular car before they commit to buying one. Good luck on the hunt. Scott
  2. The Special Six and Big Six engines are also splash lubricated and cruise at similar speeds. A little bigger and heavier cars so the difference in engine power is probably a wash. The biggest benefit would be the added size. If you are looking for something to drive more, I would suggest a later 20s model with four wheel brakes. Having a full pressure lubricated engine is a benefit also but not nearly as much as having front wheel brakes. Scott
  3. Definitely a Light Six. Looks like a decent enough job in the restoration. If you wanted a car to show, there are a number of non-correct items but if you are wanting a good looking car to enjoy and drive it’s nice. A bit on the high end for price though. My Light Six is close to a 400 point car and I’m not sure I could get that for it. The nickel era cars just don’t bring much these days. The disc wheel option is a plus. As for what to expect as far as driving it.... Although well balanced, it is a splash lubricated engine so it doesn’t like to be pushed to high rpms but they cruise nicely up to 45 mph. It only has rear wheel brakes so stopping is often a limiting factor. I like to say it’s a 45 mph car with 25 mph brakes. It has plenty of power to maintain speed on moderate grades. Like any of the early Studebakers, finding parts can sometimes be a challenge - about the only repro parts I ever found were rubber door bumpers. Of course, the quality of the restoration will dictate just how well the car runs, drives, stops, holds up, etc. Scott
  4. Really nice looking restoration and what a huge back door. Did you have specific plans on how you wanted to use this car - show, funeral parlor, driver, etc.?
  5. I've had several persons inquire and so far everyone is on the east coast looking for shipping costs. Between work and vacation, I just haven't had the time to wrap them up and take them to UPS or Fed Ex to get estimates on those costs. I was really hoping for a local request to avoid the shipping hassle but have not had any. I'll try to make some time next week to reply. Scott
  6. I see you have this posting in two topic areas (here and Studebaker) so I'll respond to this one since it has more comments. Good advice on spark lever and coolant issues. The Big Six uses a cone clutch which can be a bit more finicky than a flat plate clutch and cold vs warm performance can make a difference. It sounds like once it's warm, and you are shifting out of neutral into a gear while depressing the clutch pedal you cannot get it in gear without it grinding. Is that correct? If so, the clutch brake is not the issue, it is the adjustment or wearing of the cone clutch. FYI - All the early 20's Studebaker models have the clutch brake. The clutch brake was to allow you to come to a stop, leave it in neutral, release the clutch and when it was time to take off again, you just pushed the clutch down all the way and the brake allowed you to immediately stop the input shaft from spinning and engage first gear rather than waiting for the gear to coast down before engaging first without grinding. Otherwise, without a brake, if you wanted a rapid start you have to leave it in gear and hold the clutch in. During a traffic jam or stop light your leg gets tired. I had my Light Six (flat plate) clutch adjusted to release closer to the floor but then it had very little pedal movement before the clutch brake engaged so I adjusted it to release toward the top of travel and that helped a lot. Nice looking car by the way. Scott
  7. Replacing the ~mid 90s BF Goodrich Silvertown 7.00-16 bias ply whitewall tires with Diamondback radials. My 5 old tires and tubes would be perfect for a museum car or ice cream getter. They are all in great cosmetic shape but they are around 25 years old. Price is right, depending on shipping costs. I’m in mid-Michigan. Contact me if interested. Scott
  8. I got a set of five 7.50-16 Diamond Back radials about 3 weeks ago for my 1939 LaSalle and am getting ready to put those on my car. I must have got the last ones! I was replacing the 7.00-16 BF Goodrich Silvertowns on the car (made in the 1990s) since I want to make this a reliable driver and didn't want to be driving a bunch of miles on older tires. I have removed the tire off the spare wheel which has never been used. It looks new - still has the nubs. It's been out of the sun and in the trunk and has the same beauty bar and pie crust as your Firestones. You are welcome to it to get you by for now - or any of the other tires that come off the car. Only handy shot I had....shows a little tire. Scott
  9. Works great. Unless you remove the band, you don't know it's there. You can use it with an original cutout relay (which I did) or you can bypass that relay and it has an internal diode to replace that relay - there are simple instructions on how to install it either way. It manages the way a modern VR would work within the capability of the generator. Driving down the road you can watch it charge and gradually drops off as the battery state of charge reaches it's peak. I verified that Jim Peterson is still making these. Current price is $108. He also has the style where the band is clamped with a screw rather than the snap band pictured. Scott
  10. More than happy to help and same applies to the new Stude owner. Scott
  11. I wouldn't overlook a Buick https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/buick/unspecified/2349088.html
  12. Photo of old brush holder end casting and aluminum replacement (this is the casting Dan DiThomas had reproduced). The rough casting still needed to be machined to fit the generator body, machined to accept the sealed rear bearing, the brush supports needed located and drilled and the mounting bolt holes needed located and drilled. This was designed for a two brush set up and the third brush was replaced by a solid state regulator supplied by Jim Peterson, P.O. Box 912, Bend, Oregon 97709 Phone: 541-389-0438 (jpetersonbend@yahoo.com) which fits under the band. I'm not sure if Jim is still producing these or this contact info is still good - I just sent an email. Again, not sure if Dan has any more castings or is willing to cast them again. If not, then they can be reproduced from a billet of aluminum on a lathe. The reason for all the added info is to convey that this is not an easy project and will take some time and money to solve. Most all the original pot metal brush holders have failed. Good luck with the project. Scott
  13. When I rebuilt the Remy 917-A generator for my Light Six, I found that one of the Stutz guys (Dan, who goes by STuTZ693 on this forum) had made the molds for the Remy 917 series end castings since his Stutz has a Remy 917-R. Dan sold me a couple of castings that I machined to fit the generator. When talking to Jason Smith (Advanced Electrical Rebuilders), I was under the impression that he had machined these end castings from billet aluminum. I did hook him up with Dan at one point so maybe he had him cast up a few more end castings. I know that Jason has a lot of work ...... maybe he will chime in. You could always contact Dan to see if he may have another spare casting which will need some final machining work to complete. Photo is of the restored end casting on my generator. Scott
  14. That sure looks like a Remy. What model number? It should be on the tag.
  15. In something other than powder blue....here's an example from an old Hemmings ad (maybe owned by one of the members here?) - beautiful car
  16. Linus, It isn't hard to re-nickel the ends of the door handles (or any of the other various parts if that's what you plan). I used the Caswell Plating system to do all my nickel work, except the bumpers and headlight bezels as they wouldn't fit in my 1-1/2 gallon buckets. 😁 The only hard part is all the polishing. For the handles, I clear coated the square steel shanks and interior handle ends to prevent them from being electroplated with nickel but all the brass got plated. I've never tried over molding the rubber. A photo of what they look like without the rubber
  17. I think that should be a Stewart or perhaps a Van Sicklen gauge and the face would have been metal. I had a number of Studebaker speedometers and gave a bin of them to Bob’s Speedometer in Howell, MI about 3 years ago. www.bobsspeedometer.com You could try them. Photo is of a Van Sicklen for a 1921 Special Six I passed on to Bob's Scott
  18. Hard to find ones without cracks. You could remove and reinstall it rotated 180 degrees to get the split pointed down. I know some folks have remolded the rubber over the handle. Scott
  19. 😮 I hate getting shocked by plug wires! Had a nerve conduction velocity test once - that was horrible. Constant zapping. I’m like “Okay already, I’ll talk” . One suggestion would be to use needle nose pliers with an insulated grip AND make up a ground wire that can be clipped to the pliers and the chassis.
  20. If it’s just the same four cylinders then look for: - Carbon tracks causing arcing in cap - Bad wires - Bad plugs If it varies on which cylinders, it could be any electrical component: - Points - Condenser - Cap - Rotor (carbon track or gap) - Coil or power to it - Wires - Plugs I would suggest cost free testing first: 1) Running it in a pitch black environment and look for any arcing 2) Dwell meter and look for bouncing 3) Volt meter on power side of coil and ensure constant voltage source If that fails then start going through each component and replacing it, starting with the cheapest first (condenser, points, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil...)
  21. The disc wheel option involves more than just the wheel itself. Each wheel comes with a locking ring so, need to make sure those come with any wheels you find. You will also need to find the left and right front wheel hubs, left and right rear wheel hubs, 12 LH threaded lugnuts, 12 RH threaded lugnuts and the disk wheel tire carrier, which consists of a number of parts. The rear drums are usually riveted to the rear hubs but you can take apart the brake drum from a wood wheel and adapt it with a bit of work - getting it on center with the hub is very important. Depending what is on your car now, the tires may be different too (32"x4" on the disc wheels so a 24" dia rim). The rear axles, front spindles and front wheel bearings are common between wood and disc wheels so no issues there. Special Six and Big Six shared disc wheel part numbers. Best bet would be to find a car with disk wheels being salvaged or sold for cheap and steal all the parts from that. Not a simple job
  22. Looks like they made a few tire changes after 1925. If you know your rim width, then I would pick a tire based on that. Maybe a 1926 Big Six owner will chime in to give their experience.
  23. In the day, tires were measured with the OD (height) and the width. The rim size was calculated as: Tire OD - (2 x Width). So the 30x5 would have a 30" height, 5" tire width and a rim of: 30" minus (2 times 5") = 20". The 600/20 would be a 6" wide tire and 20" rim. These are all very nominal dimensions. Based on tire specifications from Coker and Universal Tire websites, I would estimate that the actual tread width on an original 30 x 5 (which aren't available) is about 4.00 - 4.25" and on a 600/20 is 4.25" - 4.75". So for authenticity, I think your choice of 600/20 blackwalls would be a good one. FYI - Blackwalls was my choice too. Scott
  24. I believe the original tire size was 30"x5" for your car, although you may want to put on something a bit wider unless you are going for authenticity. As far a wide whitewalls vs blackwalls, that is a matter of preference. I think you are right that blackwalls were more correct for 1926 but it's up to you how you want your car to look. When I was deciding for new tires on my 1923 Light Six, I just did a little Photoshop work and it gave me the answer. Scott
  25. I had a similar issue due to incorrect spring pressure on a new set of points I bought, although it would typically manifest at a higher rpm. The points were correct by the book but when I pulled them back out and compared the spring rate to the original point set, the replacement was much softer than the originals. I just cleaned up the original point contacts and solved the issue. Just something to look at. You could also post in the CLC Forum. Good luck. Scott
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