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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. The disk wheel tool was used to install the wheel assembly on to the hub when installing on the car. Tool was inserted into a stud hole in the wheel and the cupped end was place over the stud (concave side down) and the wheel assembly could then be picked up and slid over the stud/hub. Below is the entire tool kit for your car. Scott
  2. The tool on the left in the top picture is correct if you have the Michelin Disc Wheel option. The other two are not part of the vehicle’s tool kit.
  3. Andrew Larder made the one for my Light Six. Pretty easy to make. He did add a pad to keep the rear window from bouncing off the spare tire. He's in Homer, MI http://larderupholstery.com/ Scott
  4. I believe this to be P/N 204990 that I found recently. Nickel is in okay shape, could use some polishing (other side is a bit nicer). $20 plus shipping. Scott
  5. P/N 16981. Found this hiding in a box. $35 plus shipping. Scott
  6. From post further up...I used bronze alloy 954 from McMaster-Carr. Bought the round stock and machined it in my 1923 Dalton lathe (same year as my car so I considered it an "authentic" aftermarket part 😉)
  7. My kingpins were worn at the bottom but the top of the pins and bushings were fine. I turned the bottom of the pins down to true them up and made the lower bushings out of a high alloy bronze. They only come out from the top now but that has no affect on functionality. I don't recall the alloy number but could probably find it if you wanted to go that route.
  8. I wasn't an "old car" owner until I bought this Studebaker back in 2009 from a friend that had it stored in a garage for 30 + years. It had been repainted green over the original black and that paint was starting to flake off . This along with having to do some disassembly to fix a stuck valve, clogged fuel system, repairing parts with disintegrating pot metal, etc. drove me down a path to do a nut and bolt restoration on it (labor of love). Dressed for the era at the Old Car Festival. Although I owned a 1967 GTO in high school, I was into a different style of engine in my younger days
  9. How about a moving picture? This video is from 1937 of my local Fire Department in Chesaning, MI. The "story" from the locals is that Henry Ford himself delivered this fire truck to the department in 1935 and Ford used it for some promotional work. It is still owned by the Chesaning-Brady Fire Department. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nB16D2b_PpY You can jump to 3:53 if you don't want the whole story This picture is of the department's first fire truck. The only thing that remains of that is the two side lanterns Prior to the trucks were horses - looks a bit like a marching band to me
  10. I would suggest 6 litres of oil for the engine - same as other Studebakers of the era. Doesn't the transaxle have a fill plug on the side? Just bring the oil level to the bottom of that plug. Scott
  11. I did manage to get a "Like" in. Very cool car. Congratulations on your long awaited acquisition. Scott
  12. Matt, Photos of the block/head and gasket for my ‘39 LaSalle with the 1936-1948 322/346 flathead. It has the same issue and I had the same concerns. Explanation was that the added holes were needed for the casting process. I’m not totally convinced with that as you can see perfect alignment between the head and block. I think it had more to do with developing the proper flows throughout the block for cooling to eliminate hot or cold spots. My theory is that the Cadillac engineers then designed the gasket based on that testing. May be a combination of both explanations. Scott
  13. I looked around and could not find them. I saved my originals, straightened them, cleaned them up and re-plated them (copper, then nickel). Definitely a retentive move.
  14. I dug around and found one of the pivot bolt assemblies (46165 in the parts book) and a couple of wedge pieces. I can spin the rib in the center of the pivot off in the lathe and everything will be 3/4”. As far as the wedges, the smaller diameter is 3/4” so again I can just spin them down to a uniform 3/4” and tap the ID. Between the two parts you’ll have what is needed to install a bow support. Scott
  15. These are what I bought at Sam’s Club. I’m happy with the purchase. 5000 lumens, 5000k color. You can link them together if desired. As you can see, I mixed in the 100 watt equivalent 2700k to get a better quality of color. LEDs aren’t so good for the eyes with all the blue light. Scott
  16. Kevin, All I can say is WOW! That is really a nice set up. And being close to the Gilmore Museum is another plus. When I built my shop I sketched out the dimensions in PowerPoint and just played around with a floor plan using scaled sizes of all the equipment I had until I found the layout I liked. That allowed me to wire it and install plugs/lighting where it belonged. Looks like yours is ready to go for wiring but you can do the same to lay out your equipment/shelving/benches/etc.. I ended up buying LED tube fixtures at Sams Club very reasonably. My only issue with LEDs is they typically emit one color spectrum. So if you go with, say, 5000K it's really bright but just seems to be missing something. 2700K is a lot warmer but doesn't seem bright enough. I have a grid of duplex recepticles in my ceiling wired to the light switches so I installed the 5000K tube fixtures (look like flourescents) in one plug and and then plugged in 2700K bulbs into the other and the mix of colors really helped out. Looks like your buildings are well shaded. My building is the same way so I just end up running a dehumidifier in the summer and the shop stays dry and cool....actually a bit cold. I was surprised as a dehumidifier makes heat. I guess the 50 degree winter floor keeps it that way in the summer. It's still cool enough in mid-July that when I pull a car outside all that warm humid air condenses on it. I have to wait about 5 minutes for things to warm up before all the liquid moisture goes away and I can drive. That's going to be a really nice place once you get it all set up. You can have your clean "Man Cave" and your less clean workshop. Your Coles are going to be very happy! Scott
  17. If you read down the post - modified 1920's Studebaker Special Six. I would agree as a lot of styling cues match.
  18. These look like the correct ones for your Big Six (38525). I may have a spare tapered stud assembly or two. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1909-1927-TOP-BOW-SADDLES-CLAMPS-Original-pair-439-Model-T-Ford-Dodge/323986882384?hash=item4b6f1f7f50:g:1l4AAOSwLJdd1bLM I used these on my Light Six (46707) Scott
  19. Most of the time people get frustrated at the starter turning slowly and decide they need 12 volts when the real cause is battery cables. 1/0 or 2/0 cables is what it came with and after 95 years of “maintenance” they usually have #2 size cables which works fine for 12 volts. I would start with the cables and making sure you have the correct ampacity wire. I purchased the correct equipment for my cars at Rhode Island Wire. Get the 1/0 or 2/0 wire and battery clamps/terminals to match the gauge, solder them on and you are typically good to go for many years. I went through this learning process years ago with a 1939 Allis Chalmers tractor and after a few years of dealing with issues related to converting to higher voltage I took the advice of someone on the tractor forum. Went back to 6 volts, heavy wire and happy for years.
  20. That gear is p/n 16981 and is used on all models 1916-1919 and on Special Six and Big Six 1921-1925 (may go beyond 1925 but that’s my last book)
  21. With everyone starting to plan their car events at the beginning of the year, I figured it was a perfect time to add in the Congress of Motorcars Tour, Show and Swap Meet at the Gilmore Car Museum in May (Now October). This was previously called the Donald Gilmore Classic which started in 2016 and has been a great event for the pre-War crowd. Each year the tour has taken the participants to a number of interesting sites and the show has been a lot of fun in a great setting, so put it on your calendar this year and help keep this event going strong. https://www.gilmorecarmuseum.org/event-detail/congress-of-motorcars-new-date/?glm_event_from=2020-10-02 From the website (7/24/20 Update): The Congress of Motorcars Show and Swap Meet features vehicles produced in 1942 and earlier, just like the cars museum founder, Donald Gilmore, was known for collecting. Only original stock vehicles will be eligible to participate, no modified or hot rod style vehicles please. The show weekend will include: Friday, October 2nd - Driving Tour Saturday, October 3rd - Show Day (this is the day with all the vintage activities and car show) On Saturday, October 3rd see early gas, steam and electric autos, take a ride in an antique car, and discover autos normally only seen on static display actually driving around the historic campus! An award ceremony will be held at 3:00pm and will honor the Oldest Vehicle, Best Vintage Attire (best period attire worn by a vehicle's owner), plus two very special awards - a Preservation Award for the best unrestored original car, Best of Show and Gilmore Award. Activities will also take place throughout the day, including demos including STEAM CARS, and very early cars, a whimsical Gilmore 1 - 2 cylinder Motor Challenge and a Pass in Review parade. Spectator Admission: $16.00 per person $11.00 for children 11-17 FREE for children 10 and under Exhibitor Admission: $10/vehicle, includes participation in Friday's driving tour as well as admission for 2 people with vehicle for Saturday show. Exhibitor gate opens at 7:30am. A few shots from last year....at the Diner was just after the Friday tour and grabbing some food. The other two are during the Saturday pass in review.
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