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Stude Light

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  1. I verified today (7-23-20) that the great folks at the Gilmore Car Museum are still planning on having both, the Friday Tour and Saturday Show for the Congress of Motor Cars in October. Show is limited to 500 cars - that is a lot but, hey, they have 90 acres of space to fill (7800 sq ft of space per car). With everything else being cancelled this year, I'm certainly looking forward to it. Scott
  2. Hi Brian, If you are interested in seeing more details of what this car would have looked like I submit the following.... Kent Musgrave has this model and it was featured in the Nov-Dec 2018 Antique Studebaker Review. His great-grandmother owned a 1924 model and Kent purchased a similar car and created a great merged photo of his great-grandfather, grandfather and his nephew using photos taken in 1927 and 2016 (attached) - great story. Scott
  3. To be more exact it is either a 1923 or 1924 Studebaker Model EM Light Six Three Passenger Roadster. There is no way to distinguish between those two years with the photos you have though. The reason it is not a 1922 (or earlier) is that the cowl lamps are set into the windshield frame. Scott
  4. Hagerty will also insure it without the historic vehicle registration at a little higher rate then lower it once you get it re-registered. Scott
  5. Looking through my 1919-1922 parts book. Not much on seats but does show two different rear cushion part numbers for the Speedster (V). One p/n shows only one used while the other p/n (206361) shows a quantity of two. This may be indicative of the two rear seat designs. There are no illustrations of the seats though. Scott
  6. Being on both sides of this process for a number of years, it's rare you find all you want at the same time so, I'll chime in on the process that worked for me and many others.... You buy all of Bob's lot. Then someone else will chime in with one or two others and you grab those. Then a third person will have one more and you end up with a set. You now become the curator of the orphaned parts for someone else who posts a need in the future or someone may contact you asking about the ones you didn't use. It's kind of like paying it forward in a way. Scott
  7. I used ELE457 LED bulbs from Restoration supply in the rear lights on my 1939 LaSalle. Since this car did not come with turn signals, I repurposed a pair of period correct fog lamps using incandescent bulbs in the front. This allowed me to use a standard turn signal relay without adding additional resistors. Car is positive ground and these lights are made for that polarity. I also added a brake lighter in the rear (https://www.brakelighter.com/). I am really pleased with the results and can start looking out my windows again versus focusing on the people behind me. Scott
  8. I think Tinindian and Joe hit it - Packaging. The longer strokes require a wider engine that is hard to package. This also applies to all the horizontally opposed aircraft engines. The 6 cylinder Franklin helicopter engine that was modified for the Tucker 48 had the following specs: Bore: 4.5 in (114.3 mm) Stroke: 3.5 in (88.9 mm) Displacement: 335 cu in (5.49 l) Two examples of modern aircraft engines: Lycoming 4 cylinder aircraft engine Bore: 5.125 in (130 mm) Stroke: 4.375 in (111 mm) Displacement: 361 cu in (5,916 cc) Continental 6 cylinder aircraft engine: Bore: 5.25 in (133.35 mm) Stroke: 4.00 (101.6 mm) Displacement: 520 in³ (8.51 litres)
  9. Good point No way to set timing from inside. It has mechanical advance but no vacuum advance. I was thinking of advancing a few degrees, especially since the lower compression engine (6.25:1) wasn't designed for 87-89 octane fuels. It's easy to change. Thanks everyone, for all the advice. Scott
  10. You are looking for the two rag joint discs for the water pump driveshaft, correct? https://www.ebay.com/itm/PIERCE-ARROW-STUDEBAKER-DUESENBERG-A-HARDY-DISK/113989732193?hash=item1a8a514761:g:uQgAAOSwiCFd3Y-s
  11. Thanks Jon. I think I have all the other fuel economy points covered....brakes properly adjusted, new Diamondback Radials set to 42 psi (seems to be the sweet spot), timing correct, running non-ethanol fuel, etc. I would expect something between 12-15 mpg. So maybe my new question is - does someone have a gauge they can loan me?
  12. I would like to improve the fuel economy in my 1939 LaSalle. It has a Carter WDO 423-S carb that I rebuilt last year but didn’t have the template gauge to set the metering rod height so I used suggestions in several pieces of literature I found on line. I have 500 miles on a freshly rebuilt engine. Although it runs and drives great, I’m only getting about 9 mpg driving 55-60 mph. The exhaust pipe is a bit sooty. So my question for anyone who has played around with these carbs is: Can I just adjust my metering rods to be lower? I think I do that by loosening the screw and rotating the metering rod arm so both rods sit lower at the same throttle setting and re-tighten the screw. I don’t think the will affect the anti-percolator settings. It’s been a year so I don’t quite recall the details and hate to mess it up too much since it runs great but just too rich. It seems I could just may small changes and look for economy improvements through trial and error. I'll know I went too lean if it starts running poorly. Anyone try doing this before on another WDO? Thanks for any help. Scott
  13. Light Six distributor drive gear for the Type 45 Timing Chain using the 15 tooth sprocket. If you can’t find a buyer, I will buy it for a spare. Scott
  14. The optional four wheel brakes they came out with in 1925 was not a good design so do some research before buying.
  15. Bob, The Light Six has an oil pump but basically free flows the oil with only a few psi. Oil is picked up from a screen in the sump and is distributed to a set of pipes that fill slots in a tray located under the spinning crank train. The bottom of the connecting rods have “fingers” that dip into these oil filled slots. Those fingers splash the oil into holes in the connecting rod caps and splash all through the engine. The top of the large ends of the connecting rod also have holes which gravity and rotation of the components drive oil into the rod bearings. The main bearings have “funnels” built into the top side of the bearing supports which pool with oil that flows through a hole into the top side of the bearing. The piston pins also have holes that pick up splashed oil along with the splash on the cylinder walls similar to modern engines. Valves just see splashed oil also. The cam shaft bearings are feed low pressure oil directly from the pump through drilled passages in the block. There is also a small nozzle that sprays oil on the timing chain. The dipper tray is shimmed to provide the correct depth for the connecting rod fingers - explained in service manual. Scott
  16. Yes, when production of the Light Six ended in 1924, the 1925 Standard Six picked up the design with a modified engine that included full pressure lubrication, higher compression ratio and the trans was also bolted to the engine. The Special Six and Big Six picked up on all of these improvements in 1925 also. The Standard Six engine design was then carried into the Dictator.
  17. I guess it depends on where you plan to drive and how much. I see a lot of Model Ts on the road and I’ve put a bit over 1500 miles on my Light Six since I finished restoring it in 2016 so if you recognize limitations, keep some following distance and maybe add a brake light bar you can enjoy driving these early cars. You sounded like you wanted a nice pre-war cruiser but you already have one. I enjoy driving my Light Six as much as my 1939 LaSalle but I do have more limitations in the Stude. If it an early Studebaker Touring car Is what you want then don’t let those limitations hold you back. They are nice cars and a lot of fun to drive. My advice is just post your location and see if someone nearby will give you a ride or let you drive their car to see if it’s a good fit. Lots of kind Studebaker owners in every state. I don’t know why people (including me) don’t ask around to experience a particular car before they commit to buying one. Good luck on the hunt. Scott
  18. The Special Six and Big Six engines are also splash lubricated and cruise at similar speeds. A little bigger and heavier cars so the difference in engine power is probably a wash. The biggest benefit would be the added size. If you are looking for something to drive more, I would suggest a later 20s model with four wheel brakes. Having a full pressure lubricated engine is a benefit also but not nearly as much as having front wheel brakes. Scott
  19. Definitely a Light Six. Looks like a decent enough job in the restoration. If you wanted a car to show, there are a number of non-correct items but if you are wanting a good looking car to enjoy and drive it’s nice. A bit on the high end for price though. My Light Six is close to a 400 point car and I’m not sure I could get that for it. The nickel era cars just don’t bring much these days. The disc wheel option is a plus. As for what to expect as far as driving it.... Although well balanced, it is a splash lubricated engine so it doesn’t like to be pushed to high rpms but they cruise nicely up to 45 mph. It only has rear wheel brakes so stopping is often a limiting factor. I like to say it’s a 45 mph car with 25 mph brakes. It has plenty of power to maintain speed on moderate grades. Like any of the early Studebakers, finding parts can sometimes be a challenge - about the only repro parts I ever found were rubber door bumpers. Of course, the quality of the restoration will dictate just how well the car runs, drives, stops, holds up, etc. Scott
  20. Really nice looking restoration and what a huge back door. Did you have specific plans on how you wanted to use this car - show, funeral parlor, driver, etc.?
  21. I've had several persons inquire and so far everyone is on the east coast looking for shipping costs. Between work and vacation, I just haven't had the time to wrap them up and take them to UPS or Fed Ex to get estimates on those costs. I was really hoping for a local request to avoid the shipping hassle but have not had any. I'll try to make some time next week to reply. Scott
  22. I see you have this posting in two topic areas (here and Studebaker) so I'll respond to this one since it has more comments. Good advice on spark lever and coolant issues. The Big Six uses a cone clutch which can be a bit more finicky than a flat plate clutch and cold vs warm performance can make a difference. It sounds like once it's warm, and you are shifting out of neutral into a gear while depressing the clutch pedal you cannot get it in gear without it grinding. Is that correct? If so, the clutch brake is not the issue, it is the adjustment or wearing of the cone clutch. FYI - All the early 20's Studebaker models have the clutch brake. The clutch brake was to allow you to come to a stop, leave it in neutral, release the clutch and when it was time to take off again, you just pushed the clutch down all the way and the brake allowed you to immediately stop the input shaft from spinning and engage first gear rather than waiting for the gear to coast down before engaging first without grinding. Otherwise, without a brake, if you wanted a rapid start you have to leave it in gear and hold the clutch in. During a traffic jam or stop light your leg gets tired. I had my Light Six (flat plate) clutch adjusted to release closer to the floor but then it had very little pedal movement before the clutch brake engaged so I adjusted it to release toward the top of travel and that helped a lot. Nice looking car by the way. Scott
  23. Replacing the ~mid 90s BF Goodrich Silvertown 7.00-16 bias ply whitewall tires with Diamondback radials. My 5 old tires and tubes would be perfect for a museum car or ice cream getter. They are all in great cosmetic shape but they are around 25 years old. Price is right, depending on shipping costs. I’m in mid-Michigan. Contact me if interested. Scott
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