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Stude Light

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  1. It’s the cam in the center but you have the incorrect rotor. It should be offset to the left as pictured. Also pictured is an original Light Six condenser for reference
  2. Dave, You want a Remy 284-A coil. They come up on eBay often (none currently). Attached is a picture of one. There are a number of variants of the 284 model which are mostly differences in high tension lead (socket vs clip), base mounting and orientation of the flange mount base. The only issue on the flange mount orientation is it will sometimes put you high tension lead facing 90 degrees one way or another (284-L, 284-D) and you have to wrap the high tension lead to meet it - they will work fine and you'll be the only one that knows. So, if you want the exact model, then a 284-A but some of the others will work also. Also, I'm not sure I would use an original NOS condenser from the 1920s as they do degrade with time. Just get a new one. I used an Echlin AL869 from NAPA and modified it to fit under the distributor cap. Shortened the wire and made a little grounding bracket to fit in where the original would mount. You can mount it outside the cap and on the distributor housing too. Scott
  3. Remy 626A or a Wagner K97. Sounds like your Remy base plate is failing (Remy p/n 11301). Common failure. https://www.classicandexotic.com/store/p-783-delco-distributor-upper-housing-stutz-and-studebaker.aspx I’m pretty sure these folks are out of business but they were selling off inventory.
  4. Make sure your water pump is flowing. The bronze impeller is held on to the steel shaft with a brass pin....sometimes the pin will corrode and fail or the shaft corrodes and the impeller flexes the pin and it fails. You can usually see down the neck where the radiator cap is and see it flow.
  5. The 180 degree will work but the only issue is it gets the coolant closer to boiling before being fully open and allowing full flow. Personally, I run water with No-Rosion to get the maximum heat transfer benefit, plus it's a lot easier to clean up and won't harm your paint. Yes, that picture is out of my photocopied illustrated parts manual. The illustrations in the original manuals are closer to photo quality but I don't like cracking those open unless I really need to......saves wear and tear. My cover and the first few pages have come off the binder in my 1923-25 manual from using it a lot over the years. Here's an example of how they are laid out (Big Six trans). A couple of us have them and are happy to help out with parts identification, although only some of the parts are illustratrated. No reproductions exist of these to my knowledge. This is what that original Sylphon looks like. Sorry, I never took a photo of it out of the housing. It is just a bellows with some alcohol inside.
  6. The only part number available would be the Studebaker part number of 43386 which has no relevance anymore. I would say about 160 degrees on the rating
  7. I have an original working Fulton Sylphon in my Light Six but they are extremely rare. I’ve never seen another one intact and if anyone has one for their car, it is doubtful they’ll give it up. Knowing mine will fail one day I created a backup by buying a 1940s-1950s design and modifying a spare housing I had to accept it. Here is an example of one on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1952-58-Buick-Dodge-Plymouth-Fulton-Sylphon-Autostat-Thermostat-180-Deg-71FT-NOS/362396231018?hash=item54607fa56a:g:EtwAAOSwaeRbTjZi I put the thermostat in my lathe and cut the top flange diameter down to fit the bore and modified the housing seat area with a file to accept the base. You could also just chuck the housing and cut the bore for the base a bit larger diameter. Then I put a copper ring in to hold it in place. I bought a couple of NOS thermostats and picked the one that fit easiest. Scott
  8. All I can tell you is that they have different part numbers so they aren’t exactly the same. Scott
  9. Are you looking for the brass housing or the Fulton Sylphon Bellows? You can adapt a later model sylphon if desired. Scott
  10. After you have your starter end cap math data were you planning on having it 3D printed, cast and machined or machined from an aluminum billet? The math is sometimes the most time intensive part so once you have that, having a few extra parts made might be more cost effective for others. The Light Six starter is quite different from the Special Six. My Light Six starter is a hybrid of a later Delco Remy brush holder end, center section and field coils and an original Light Six Remy armature and front housing that mounts to the engine. Fairly cost effective solution. Scott
  11. Since your car would not have come with rear view mirrors or wind wings and those would be aftermarket items that would typically clamp onto your windshield supports, I suggest looking on eBay or posting in the more general WANTED section of this forum for a broader audience for those two items. I have a Parts Manual and can look items up for you if needed. Those are kind of rare so the people owning them don’t often sell them. I’ve not seen a reprint. For literature, Studeq on this forum is the go to guy. Scott
  12. A lot of good input. Anything you buy today will be 1000 times better than what was available when your car was new and will work very well.
  13. I would use a medium lithium based greased. Personally, I used the black molybdenum grease from Tractor Supply on mine since the column was black. You really just want to keep rust from forming so a very light coat that covers everything would be best. I ran a little swab down the inside of the tube. Scott
  14. Check eBay too. Used ones come up occasionally.
  15. Do you have a Service Manual? Currently out of stock at Faxon but hopefully they will print some more. http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1918-1924-Studebaker-Big-Six-Special-6-Repair-Shop-Manual-Reprint-P9551.aspx
  16. What David Coco said.... Kris did the running boards on my 1939 LaSalle and the results were perfection. Scott
  17. Same weekend as the Old Car Festival at Greenfield Village....OCF wins for me. Scott
  18. Very nice. What are those front bumper protrusions officially referred to as? I always wondered if that was ever commented on in their marketing or advertising. I have to think that Cadillac had a male dominated design staff at the time.
  19. After replacing the front lever action shocks on my 1939 LaSalle, I thought it would be fun to take it to my local Cadillac dealer for an alignment and see their reaction....so I did. It's really easy to adjust for caster, camber and toe and I brought the service manual/specs with me. They had the technician that was going to align it come out in the vehicle entrance and I walked him through the procedure. Two issues: 1) Since they couldn't plug into my ALDL port, they had a heck of a time trying to enter my 7 digit VIN into their computer system - had to call their IT guy to come up with a solution. 2) Three on the tree? One guy knew how to drive a stick but never a column shifter.....they asked if I would drive it onto the alignment rack and I was happy to do so. Once on the rack, other than reprogramming their Hunter machine with a new model with my specs (including my negative caster), it went well. Most of the staff was out in the entrance checking the car out at one time or another - I guess a bit of a novelty for a modern dealership. Scott
  20. They look a lot like the 1970s Per Lux fog lights I added to my 1969 GMC truck back in the day - sans the louvers that would direct the lights downward. Definitely an aftermarket light though. Scott
  21. Steve, I'm going to agree with Ed on the scaler and recommend sand blasting. Need a higher pressure unit with some pretty agressive media though. Do you have plans on a new coating? I'll share the experience on my 1939 LaSalle....went with one of the two most recommended porcelain coating companies (not cheap) and it failed miserably after the few drives. They offered to try again but I'll be taking my losses and removing the manifolds this winter and have them ceramic coated instead. I'm going to try Jet Hot Cermaic Coatings. It won't look near as nice as brand new ceramic, as it does not have the caoting thickness nor the glossy sheen (satin is the best you can get with ceramic) but I know it'll stay on and will look a lot better than blotches of rusty cast iron and glossy black porcelain. Scott
  22. Agree with Matt Harwood, Marty Roth and Matt Hinson. This is a very common problem with the Cadillac 346 flathead. My 1939 LaSalle had the same issue and the fixes mentioned solved that problem. I kept a 6 volt system, used heavy cables, rebuilt starter, ensured a good ground path, carb insulating block and it has an electric fuel pump along the frame rail towards the rear of the car. Even after a hot soak, it starts every time. Up to a 5 second crank occasionally but always fires off. I really don't think the insulation on the fuel line to the carb does anything. That little bit of insulation isn't going to stop the 250 degree underhood temperatures from heating that fuel after a 15+ minute soak. I found no difference with or without having that line insulated. Scott
  23. I like using Permatex Copper Spray a Gasket sealant on the head gasket. I might use a very thin layer of Permatex Ultra Black on the paper gasket. I would normally use Permatex Right Stuff on that paper gasket but it cures pretty quickly so you need to assemble it quickly if you use it. If you can get it together and bolted down in under 10 minutes, I would go the Right Stuff route. I hate having gasket leaks on a freshly assembled engine and these products have not let me down. Scott
  24. I use Boeshield T-9 to protect parts, tools, etc. - designed by Boeing to protect parts in remote areas of an aircraft. Dries to a slight waxy film, not oily. But you'll need to clean off the friction face with some solvent before assembly.
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